A good introduction to

Indian Creek

,

Split Pinnacle

tackles a tight hands to fist crack up the center of a short leaning tower. Disappointing in length, its still a nice and quick stop if you're looking to get a feel for hand cracks.

Easily accessible from the road, This is a fun route to do if you're short on time, just arriving, or looking for a mellow warm-up or warm-down.

Start by diving right in on the thinnest part of the crack. Squirm your way up the generous start until you can start burying those hands with solid jams. Keep climbing til the hands turn to fists, give a grunt and pop out on top at a chain anchor.

Split Pinnacle

Arch Route

White Waltz

Y-Crack Simulator

Unnamed 5.11 AKA Entrance Exam

Clementine Corner

Cloud Dancer

The Turner Prize Tower

Sundance

The Event Horizon

For those lacking a large rack of cams or those who are new to the Creek; this is a great place to start.  Also, there is a really cool cave to the right of this route where you can actually walk back in the rock behind this climb.  Bring you headlamp.

Inside corner formed by a legal-to-climb arch. Starts as an easy offwidth for 15' with some loose chockstones in the bottom for feet, becoming progressively smaller as you move up. Somewhat sandy.

I love this route! You must pass this route before you enter the creek (AKA Entrance Exam).

Starts in an offwidth-y wedge and pulls a roof with bouldery moves and fingerlocks. Then climb the zig-zagging crack with hands and big hands. It gets steep and pumpy towards the top.

Climb the sweet orange corner by jamming and stemming up past a cool manganese band, with several nice ledges to place from. Crux comes near the top with some thin flaring fingers with  a bit of pack rat poop in the back. Be careful of loose rock as the route will  clean up nicely with some traffic.

Face and slab climbing up thin holds past 4 fixed pitons.  The top is at the break and there is a three bolt anchor.

P1)Starts at a crack on the east side. Up this to the gap and belay .60'5.8 P2)Move out onto the south side and some bolts lead up a slab to the summit. 50'

Sandstone slab with two bolts on route to an I-bolt anchor.  The crux is after the first bolt.  A nice climb for those in your party not into the typical offerings of Indian Creek or those who's hands need some rest.

Pitch 1: 13b/c fingers recently first free ascent (3/10/21) by Charlie Barrett

Pitch 2: 5.9 hands and wide hands

Pitch 3: fist and/or O.W. roof. Grade ranges from hand size. Pat says 5.12 OW

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in New Sub-Area 1