Around the corner from Platypus on the big beautiful always-sunny 55° wall, start matched on the obvious right-facing (and hollow sounding) flake at about head height. Directly under the lip from where you start Son of the Morning. Match on the flake, Paste your feet on the garbage footchips, Huck to the lip, And get on top. Note #1: Chris went all the way up the tall slab/4th class scramble on the FA, so I guess you should too.Note #2: don’t be persuaded by Chris’ insistence that this is “only V6”, this thing is V8 all day.

 

Fading Light

The Lesser Line

Saccharine Crack

Moon Boots

Sad Tilly

Fading Manhood

Anthrax Arête

Darkside

The Full Sausage

The Elitist

Narwhal

Platypus

Aquaculture

Son of the Morning

Public Enemy

The Square arete on the far right side of the Public Enemy Boulder. Starts on two slopers and does a big move up and left, then another bump with the left hand. A strange three finger undercling/sidepull pinch at the lip leads to a jump to a 45 sloper. Unique top out.

Starting seated, reach to a friendly crimp with your left hand and leap to a very positive edge above the lip of the boulder with your right hand. Mantle it out. A fun jump, albeit not the biggest dyno in the world.

Start deep in the cave with both hands in the hand jam section. Work out the cave using fingerlocks, smears, and brute strength. Pull the bulge and finish in the massive hueco for a nice sit down finish (or top out the tall fist crack).

Fun slab to pass the time and work on some good feet. 

Link-up of Fading Light into Son of the Morning. Start matched on the start flake of Fading Light, after you get to the lip, traverse left to finish on SOTM.

Starting standing on a left hand undercling and a right hand crimp, do two hard bump moves to reach your right hand to the lip of the boulder. Fun and tricky mantle to put you on top. Cool holds and movement, but a bit too lowball to be a classic.

The logical extension to Son of the Morning that starts on the far right corner of the wall, matched on a crimp slot. Adds a few not-so-hard moves into the start of SOTM, but overall increases the pump factor enough to earn 9 V points.

The usually dirty face to the left of Platypus

Start on a big jug, then cross with your left to a interesting pinch and find a way to reach the top of the boulder.

This is the Low Start to Fading Light. Squat Start matched on the diagonally right-facing flat jug plate undercling hold that is ~10 feet down and left from the start of Fading Light. Again, this is a Squat Start, the first ascentionist did NOT start sitting, so you aren't required to either. Time will tell once a consensus forms, but I think this is one of the hardest lines at The Holy Boulders, up there with MJ & The New Zero. At the very least I think the first move of Ra, from a purely physical standpoint, is the hardest single move at the Holies.  P.S.A.- it’s probably best to avoid trying this thing when it’s wet or after rain. The flake that Fading Light starts on is hollow and will definitely rip off someday, but we can delay the inevitable if we’re smart.Also, clean your shoes before you try this thing. This sandstone is already pretty soft, and if you have sand and rock on your shoes it’s just gonna grind away at the feet when you push on them. And the feet on this thing are already TERRIBLE, if any of them break it’s gonna be a major bummer.

Start on a low undercling with your left hand and a side pull with your right hand. Pull two moves to the jug on Narwhal.

Between Inspector Gadget and Darkside is this tricky one mover. Start standing with your left hand in a small undercling pocket and right on an awful crimp. Pull onto the wall and smack the lip of the boulder. Move left a bit onto some more positive slopers to top out.

Start on the far right side of the arête in the scoop feature. Follow the crimp seam to a left side pull and a deep pocket jug. Continue on bad slopers all the way to the corner and top out on better holds.

Variations exist for the Start. Either very low on juggy pinches and huecos, or slightly higher on slopey-er pinches. Either go straight up or up and left. Grade depends on these factors, but basically falls withing the V1-V2 range.

A short overhung boulder that features a variety of problems with some very cool holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in I: Public Enemy Boulder