Rough Arond the Edges Direct

OtherWorld

The Chase

Center Route

Stonequest

Soft in the Middle

Jokers to the Right

Free For All

Crossover

Whoreny Toad

Caribbean Cruise

P-Line Express

Psychedelic Zygote

Costa Rica (p1)

Bring in the Fembots

Hippy Child

Tweet This

Hayley Anna

Hummock World

Machine Gun Jubblies

The Soloist

Clowns to the left

Striptease

Simon the Dog

Color Me Gone (P1)

Saela Silky Drawers

Saved By Zero

Fly By

The Unchaste

Wretched in Stone

Cool Cliff 170

Homeworld

Rough Around the Edges

Secret  Agent  Dward

Eye of the Beholder

Bombay Bitch

Farm Alarm

Lithium Courage

The Hawaiian

Unnamed Skelton route

Woody Woodpecker

Lily's Way 10d ++

Flying In The Mountains

Dangling Chads

Too High

Side Tracked

Watercooler cracks

Moss Madness

Back for More

Sawyer Crack

This route follows the arete just right of Flying in the Mountains. Most of the route protects with thin gear in a small crack that runs along the arete. When the crack peters out clip a bolt and face climb out right and up to a second bolt. After the second bolt continue straight up then right up gully past the tree to the anchor on Homeworld or stay on the unprotected, as of yet, face to the same.

You can also do a harder start to the right. Climb past a pin and 3 bolts of Back for More. At the third bolt move out on the arete to the top. Nice to have a small finger size cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

This is a sport route. The longest in California!

P.1 Climb 1st pitch of Homeworld. 10+ (80')

P.2 Bolt clipping variation just left of HW. Goes to same anchor by the big Grey Pine 5.8 (80')

P.3 Bolt clipping directly above the anchor. Thin 10a start to stellar climbing. 10a (90')

P.4 Up gorgeous features to an interesting step left, then back right. 10b/c (90')

P.5 Head straight up to the large flake feature following bolts up through its steep features to a lovely belay ledge. 10b/c (70')

P.6 This where the route gets really good (and harder). Climb thin and technical features up and left, then up and trending right. Super cool, easier climbing gets you to the anchor. 11b (100').

P.7 Unique pod features up a polished groove leads to a crux step right and more great cliff scaling. 10d (90')

P.8 Step right and head up to the intimidating arete with fixed draws. Get as high as you can on your feet, thin underlings will allow to reach sloper jugs. Try to hang on as you climb off balance features. Too far left and it's all slopers, too far right and it gets real steep! This pitch is devious, sustained, and difficult. 11d (100')

P.9 More bolt clipping to the top of cliff. 10b (90')

Rap the route with a single 60 or 70m rope.

Nice enjoyable face climbing with some friction but mostly nice, clean, and often big, edges. Although bolted this climb is no sport route. A fall getting to the 3rd bolt will put you close or on the ground. Best let your partner lead this one! This climb gets an R rating although A FALL GETTING TO THE 3RD BOLT COULD KILL YOU!

This route was first done in 1970. Today it sees little to no traffic other than the first 100' which is the same as Stonequest, put up in the late 80s.

The route follows the most obvious path up Parkline Pinnacle. After the initial crack ends  moves right to a 2 bolt anchor. The second pitch follows the obvious right leaning corner/seam past 2 bolts, step down and traverse 20' to the right and follow the finger crack up to some wider cracks then into a vegetated section for the belay. Continue up through more vegetation and dirty cracks for 2 more pitches to the top of the pinnacle.

This route is a must do if you are in Yosemite during the winter and its too cold to climb further up in the park.  It offers an excellent elevation gain while ascending both crack and face at a moderate grade.

Pitch 1:  Begin climbing in an awesome hand crack that continually narrows and eventually ends after 100ft.  Continue straight up (5.8) past two bolts (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and two rappel rings.

Pitch 2:  Face climb (5.8) passing the right side of *three bolts (runout).  Continue straight up over a small rooflet (small TCU) and a bolt to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring.  *Note - One more bolt than in Donald Reid's topo.

Pitch 3:  Climb a thin (small TCU) yet widening finger crack (5.7) to a large ledge.  Exit the ledge on the right (large cam) and climb up and left past a bolt (runout) to a two bolt anchor with slings and one rappel ring.

Pitch 4:  Climb a thin right slanting crack (5.6) to the summit of the formation.  Look at the cliff above before rappelling.

Hayley Anna is worth the walk but adding 2 more pitches makes it even more worthwhile. Both pitches above are fun. The first is easy and fun. Although it looks like a dirty crack your basicly face climbing around the crack  but getting great protection in the crack.  This pitch has some very cool features.  Although it stays wet for a few days after a rain you can almost always avoid the water. It has a fun traverse and a nice exposed belay. The second pitch is great and it is harder than it appears at first.  Originally put up with 2 bolts I have added 5 more to take away the sting. Bring a bit of pro to a .5C4 and a good eye to find it.

This route is a sporty direct variation to Clowns to the left

This climb is a lot of fun. It starts with a direct variation to the Center Route. The second pitch startes up the Center Route but stays in the arching seam/corner instead of traversing lower down. It then meets back up with the Center Route higher up. There are 2 bolts and chains at the top of the first pitch and a single 70m rope will get you down. If you do the second pitch you will need to continue to the top of the Center Route or leave webbing around the tree of the second pitch belay.

Crossover is a two pitch variation to Color Me Gone. It ascends the left side of the "pillar" where

Color Me Gone (P1)

climbs the right side. I thought the first pitch was worth doing, but CMG is the better line by far.

Pitch 1 (5.8) - Start on a large grassy terrace directly beneath

Machine Gun Jubblies

. Make a rising traverse to the right to join the left-facing corner. The start is runout but sub-5.6 climbing. At a steeper section in the corner, where the climbing gets harder, you will get your first pro but it's quite a reachy placement. I

Use a set-up like this to reach the constriction at the base of the crack if you want to protect the moves after the last bolt.

to reach the higher and better constriction. From here climb up the arete and then back left into the corner. Follow the corner to a bolted anchor shared with the first pitch of Color Me Gone.

A second pitch (5.9) traverses to the right and I think it goes up a shallow right facing corner with a filthy black streak down the right-hand wall. This pitch looked significantly harder than the first and I backed off of it for want of more gear. Bring a good selection of small wires and micro cams for this one!

Descend by rappelling the route with two ropes.

From directly below Eagles Eyrie go down hill a few feet to the right. Climb up and right to a bolt.  Continue up and right to a 2 bolt anchor. The second pitch of this route is very cool with neat features. There is a crux at the start and at the end. In between enjoy the great jams. At about3/4 of the way clip a bolt move right then continue up to the thin crack finish. Will take a bit of traffic to clean up.

This easy pitch was originally part of an unfinished project. I drilled a 3/8" hole for, at the time, the 3rd or 4th protection bolt. When I tried to hammer the bolt into the hole it would only go in part way. Hammering it further only caused the bolt to deform. I tightened the bolt down replaced my drill bit and continued the climb. After installing the next bolt I lowered down to the last and added another bolt several inches away with the intent of chopping the poor bolt later, when I had my patch kit. I lowered off the climb to continue it on another day. When I returned to the climb I found someone had connected the two bolts with webbing for an anchor. Later I heard that several people had enjoyed this fun easy bolted pitch. I decided to chop and patch the poor bolt and add another good bolt   and call it a pitch. I also added a couple of protection bolts making it  a less runout climb, a little better for a 5.7 leader.

The second pitch is unfinished.

P1(5.7)-Start 75' right of Homeworld. Scramble up the corner to a small ledge and step out left into an obvious crack. Follow the natural line straight up, eventually leading to the obvious Double Pine Chimney. Follow the chimney to its end (I used the branches of the pines as hand and foot holds) and continue on lower angled ground to a nice big ledge and 2 bolts (Homeworld's 2nd pitch anchor).

P2(5.8)-Alpine  Corners Pitch, follow the obvious left facing corners right of P1 anchor, up and right to a nice ledge and build a gear anchor. A#2 C4 is nice here

P3(5.7)- Straight up, follow the natural line of discontinuous cracks to a small ledge and another gear anchor.(Can link p3 & p4 w/60m rope)

P4(5.10)- Continue straight up the obvious line. Just past the belay keep an eye out for a natural thread that protects a move into the crack system (thin sling is needed for thread). Crux thin move at bulge where the crack peters out. Big move into nice finger crack. Move left to bolt when crack ends then climb past another bolt to a 2 bolt belay. There is a knob you can sling to protect the last moves to the anchor.

P5(10a)- Follow the ramp at your right up a bit and right into a left facing corner. Follow corner up until you can traverse left and move into the large left facing corner that hangs directly above the anchor. Follow this corner up to an awkward flaring chimney/stem move. Keep an eye out for the thin angling crack where you can protect with a Lowe Ball and a micro C3. Continue up another 15' to a bolt. Traverse left at the bolt (exposed) into a small left facing corner. Move up a bit and left into another small left facing corner. Finally, move left again to a 2 bolt anchor. WATCH ROPE DRAG AND PREVENT GETTING YOUR ROPE STUCK, IF YOU CAN, IN THE BEND IN THE CORNER.(A 2.5 Tri-cam is very nice on this pitch and the next right before the anchor).

P6(10+)- From the anchor, climb up to the bulge and clip a bolt (the 2.5 Tri-Cam protects the move getting to the bolt). Move a bit right and make a big move to a great, if you hit it right, incut hold. Mantle up and step back left into a left facing corner. Climb up and right over corner then up and back left into a discontinuous crack. Follow the crack to its end. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a hummock ramp. Follow the hummock ramp/ledge (keep eye out for a .5 Camalot placement for directional) to a 2 bolt belay (shares the anchor with the last pitch of Dangling Chads )

A thin to small hands sized crack leads to a 2-bolt anchor with rappel rings. The Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley guidebook shows this as an unnamed 5.7 crack but doesn't give a name or other info. Clint Cummins says this is actually Psychadelic Zygote (which Sloan's book shows as the next crack to the right). The crack is brushy compared to more popular routes, but still quite fun and protects well. It looks like the crack continues from the anchors to the top of the mini-pinnacle, but I didn't climb this possible second pitch so can't speak to difficulty or protection. Clint says it goes at 5.6 and ends at a poor anchor, thus is rarely climbed.

Thin low angle slab climbing, runout but very low angle. With the new bolts this pitch is a great introduction to runout slab climbing but not a good beginner lead. The second pitch is awesome rock with cool features, beautiful line, but very very

R

.

Although a bit easier than its well bolted neighbor to its right, with a few runout sections and a bit tricky pro, Bring in the Fembots is often top roped after leading its neighbor. I personally enjoy leading the more thought provoking Bring in the Fembots over the clip up Machine Gun Jubblies. A second pitch, 10b, can be done after leading either first pitch.

Start just left of

Machine Gun Jubblies

. Climb up the face to a seam that accepts small offset stoppers. Climb up a few moves to a bolt and continue up to another bolt. Move left and up a ways to a small leftfacing corner. You can get a small stopper here and then a cam a foot or two higher( backups are nice). follow the corner up a bit then step right and continue up to a bolt. Cilmb past the bolt to a ledge where you move right to another leftfacing corner. Nice to get a small nut or two in the seam in the corner. Follow the corner up to a nice finger crack. Follow this crack up and over a small roof then continue up to a bolted anchor with chains.

Pitch 1: Scramble up to a BD piton, follow a thin crack, then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. This pitch is 125' according to the Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley book, which also mis-labels it as Psychadelic Zygote (according to Clint Cummins). Ryan says you can rappel from the top of P1 to the ground with a 70m rope but it's close so tie knots.

Pitch 2: Sloan's book shows 5 bolts to the top of the mini-pinnacle. Clint says it's 5.5 to a poor anchor. Ryan says P2 is fun, you will want some gear to supplement the bolts, and it is equipped to rappel.

This gem is one of the few pure jam cracks at Parkline. The route starts out fingers then soon turns to hands. Continues hands, jogging left around the roof, then big hands and fists to the top.

This slot, unattractive to most, is very fun and takes good gear most of the way.

Originally put up on lead with 5 bolts, the addition of several others by the first ascent party have made Machine Gun Jubblies a very fun safe lead.

Heads up on this one, this is a sporty climb not a sport climb! As the name implies, Ron put this one up on lead solo. I heard it was a sandbag. Anyone done it or have any info??? Protection bolts are 1/4" and anchor bolts are 3/8ths" I think.

This unique route is really fun, starts with a jug haul through horizontal cracks followed by a cool traverse and finishes with a challenging thin crack crux that eats up great pro.

Fun edging/slab

P1: 5.7 slab/face through 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/rings

P2: 5.10c slab/face through 9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ rings

Rap/TR with 2 60m ropes.

This is actually an unknown sport climb in between Hayley Anna and Dressed to Kill. I think Sean Jones may have put it up?? I thought the name Dressed to Drill was good. If anyone has info on this route please update this.

Climb easy 5th class past an anchor then continue to the base of the finger. Follow cracks to the final lieback to the top of the finger. Bolted belay/rap(may need new webbing???)

Follow 3 bolts up the golden face to a left facing flake. Get a piece in and continue up and left for 3 more bolts. Here the route joins the right facing corner of Big Chungus (?), pulls the roof and continues up the right facing crack. One more bolt leads through the face to a 2 bolt anchor.

This is the righthand start to the Hawaiian. It's a fun short pitch. It starts just left of

Fly By

. Start directly below the grassy crack that starts 30' up. Move up and right to a seam that opens up for a, you guessed it, #0C3. A bit higher the seam opens up again for a good nut placement. Mantle a small ledge and clip a bolt that protects a thin move back left  joining the crack. Continue up the thin crack to the top.

This is a nice, thin friction and thin edgeing climb. Unfortunately the bolts look kinda questionable.

This is a heads-up climb! You don't want to fall getting to the 5th bolt and also getting to the anchor.

This route starts with well protected face climbing that will keep you on your toes. The crux comes mid way on the first pitch with a second crux above a diorite band. The second pitch is easier but still challenging with mostly face climbing and a bit of crack near the pitches end. The last pitch is very easy but fun crack climbing.

For those that enjoy the wide or just want to be abused. Best done in 3 pitches. The first pitch ends on a flat ledge and has several mostly 4th class variations. The best is right up the middle avoiding the vegitation and is easy but has little protection. The second pitch follows smaller right facing corners into the giant corner and ends just before the cave, wherever you can find good pro. The last pitch is the crux, continues to the top of the giant corner and ends at two bolts before the impossible looking roof.

You will be hard pressed to find anyone who has done this route as well as find anyone willing to give it a go. This is an adventure route. Probably the dirtiest climb I have ever done but the climbing is classic and well protectable. There are two starts. The right hand start has been cleaned up a bit and most of the loose rock is now gone. After a long pitch it ends at 2 new 3/8" bolts with chains. The left starts out nice, although vegetated, but the rock quality gets very poor at the small roof. There is a three pin anchor below the roof in questionable rock which I recommend you climb past and continue to the same bolted station as the right variation.

This is an excellent climb up a large chunk of rock. It has several interesting pitches with a lot of variety. It is mostly well protected, but it's no sport climb, with a few sporty sections. Getting to the first bolt on pitch 5 is heads up with ankle breaker potential. The sixth pitch is stellar, one of the best pitches at P-Line. There are several variations one can do for pitch one, other than the original described here.

P1 (10c/d) Horizontal Cracks Pitch . Climb past several horizontal cracks then up thin face move to a ledge. Clip anchor, jog left then back right and up to a bolt leading to  a nice splitter finger crack to a bolted belay/rap station.

P2 (5.10 move) In Your Face Traverse Pitch. This short pitch is mostly a class 2 traverse to get to pitch 3. You will be surprised by what appears to be a short 4th class section. from P1 anchor traverse 100' right to a 2 bolt belay.

P3 (10a) The Shiny Path of Hope Pitch. From the belay, face climb to and up a vertical crack. Then follow the shiny path of hope(several bolts) up to another bolted belay/rap

station.

P4 (5.9) Scary Giant Flake Pitch. Climb up to the left side of a large pillar following it to a nice ledge w/a bolted belay/rap station.

P5 (10b) Black Bolt of Death Pitch. From the top of the pillar traverse left to a bolt(don't fall here). Continue left to another bolt. Climb up and right to a black bolt then up to a bolted belay/rap station below a large flake.

P6 (11a) Undercling Pitch. This pitch is stellar. Bust out several thin friction moves working left and up to the large flake. undercling out right to the end of the flake then follow a few well spaced bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station.

P7 (10a) Backwards SSS Pitch. From pitch 6 belay, move up and right passing a couple of bolts. Then right to another bolt. Continue right to a flake bulge. Pull through the bulge, then follow bolts back left to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. Watch the rope drag on this pitch.

P8 easy to the top

Can rap the route w/1 60m rope. At the top of p3 swing climbers left to an alternate rap station.

There are several options/routes to start on for pitch one.

The first pitch is easy and well protected. It follows interesting features on great rock up a low angle slab. The second pitch is also, now, well protected. It is a grade harder and follows a line of bolts up to a nice ledge. At the ledge head left past 2 bolts and one peice of gear(I put in a pink Tri Cam but I think a .5 C4 woud work) to the p2 anchor of Costa Rica(you will want a long sling on that last peice). The 3rd pitch takes the obvious line up to another 2 bolt anchor but is overgrown and run out.

As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few  runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.

This is a wild pitch that chimneys across a hudge bombay roof for about 70' and ends at a 2 bolt anchor. I rated it 10b because a rating was required to post a new route. This is the first time I have climbed anything like this. It may feel easy to you. There were 2 short wet sections when I did it that were the crux, very slick and not so nice. (Don't climb this pitch when wet).

To get to the route you climb Handle With Care a very fun bolted 10c face route then Slinging the Blues a 5.9 right facing corner. Also while your there don't forget to climb Eye of the Liger a steep 10a splitter that starts off the same ledge as Slinging the Blues.

Start right of Hayley Anna, and right of Symon The Dog at the big right facing dihedral of Wretched in Stone.

P.1 Climb 50-60' of 4th class blocks to a bolted anchor.

P.2 From here step left and climb the steep 10c finger crack to easier terrain and a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. 60'

P.3 Head up the face clipping bolts (10a) just left of the arete to a shared anchor with Soft In The Middle. 100'

P.4 Quest up and right following spaced bolts to a pod (5.8). 100'

Rap straight down with 2 ropes over the roof below. 3 raps. Or rap Soft In the Middle/Hayley Anna.

The Hawaiian is a fun short route that follows a seam that opens up now and then for good protection. When the seam ends a bolt protects the final face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor/rap station. Although a little run to the anchor, positive edges keeps it fairly tame.

Good clean long route that gets you to a great position overlooking the lower canyon.

This climb can be seen from Hyw 140.  Look for a white section of granite with two cracks in it forming Woody's beak.  The climbing is excellent and the thin hands section is awesome.

Vertical bolted line good interesting  and hard moves.   There some gear possibility on this route especially on upper section, but without bolts this line would be R line with 20 feet ground fall potential

Another great Sean Jones Route with several excellent pitches.

P1

(9) Climb the left facing corner, a bit loose at the top, to a bolted belay.

You can also start with Hummock world 5.7 on the left or Rough Around the Edges to the right. Rough Around the Edges climbs the arete just right of the Flying in the Mountains corner (9). Or best start is on the face just down and right (10b) past a pin and 3 bolts into a thin crack on the arete.

P2

(10a/b) Follow the obvious finger crack up to a 2 bolt anchor. A very nice pitch!

P3

(11a) Follow bolts up to, then over, the roof. Continue with technical climbing up the corner, then out right over the arete, then up to a 2 bolt belay.

P4

(11a) Follow the obvious crack up to a 2 bolt belay.

P5

(10b) Climb up and left then back right, passing a bolt or two, into the crack and follow it to a 2 bolt belay.

(A bit heady)

.

P6

(10c) Follow several bolts right and up on great edges to the top and another 2 bolt anchor. Another very nice pitch!

Can rap the route with 2 ropes or rap homeworld with one.

Choose the fun 5.8 original start or the long continuous 11a direct start. From the shared anchor continue up a right facing corner that narrows down to tips. As the corner ends figure out the crux face climbing moves past the first bolt. Traverse, right, past a second bolt that leads to another thin crack with interesting moves to the anchor. A semi run out third pitch(5.9) gets you to the very interesting forth. Still a bit dirty, interesting features lead to then over what, from below, seems like an improbable roof. A runout though easy final 5.7/8 pitch ends at a cool summit ledge.

A short crack climb, fun but run at the top. Fixe double ring anchor with 3/8ths stainless bolts at the top.

There are several nice looking cracks packed in 30 feets. The size of the cracks varies, offering a nice place for practicing and doing laps.

Pitch 1: Starts 10' right of Dangling Chads pitch 1 in a dark seam that takes micronuts for pro.  5.8

Pitch 2: Up right facing corner to a 5.11a thin crux 60 feet up.  5.11a

Pitch 3: Go left to join D.C. for 30' then climb back right up some large munge.  Easy slab follows to a grey rock scar.  5.7

Pitch 4: Straight up past slab to a bulge with a crack in the middle.  Belay on a ledge 20' above this bulge (2 bolt belay).  5.8

Pitch 5: Up past 3 bolts to a belay in the munge zone next to a block 60' up and right past the 3rd bolt. 5.9

Pitch 6: Up and right past munge to a large slot in the headwall.  Belay above the slot at the 2 bolt belay for Eagle's Eyrie.  5.9

Pitch 7: Go up and left to a white slab with a hidden thin crack.  When the angle eases move up and right to the base of the giant headwall.  5.7

Pitch 8: Traverse left to avoid the lower headwall then up 4th class to a point level with a large manzanita in the middle of the headwall.  Traverse right past an awkward section to gain a small ledge just above the manzanita bush.  5.7

Pitch 9: Up to the left of two cracks that breach a steep section, then up past easy blocks to a belay below a steep handcrack or move right to the 2 bolt belay of Eagle's Eyrie.  5.8

Pitch 10: Up the short, steep handcrack to the top.

Descent: rap Eagle's Eyrie via it's 9 bolted belays (all SS 3/8" as of 3/21/2010)

The crack is good quality with the crux being dependent on the climber.

Description

Location

Routes in Aa. Parkline Slab