Stem up and step left past the first bolt to a ledge. Step left to a shallow corner. The right of the two corners is the route

Heavy Cipherin'

.  Clip the 2nd bolt, and make the committing crux moves with almost certain ledgefall potential. The relief of clipping the third bolt will mentally prepare you for one more tricky move. Cruise up easier rock to an overhanging bulge that leads to the anchor.

Dagnabitol

Hankerin' in the Midsection

Heavy Cipherin'

By Cracky

This is the easiest route at this crag and is very fun.  The crux comes at the second bolt where there is a convenient layback hold to clip from.  It is easy climbing up to this point.  The crux is short, just a few moves.  The route is 9+ in difficulty at the third bolt and then is only 5.7 at the fourth bolt.

Start the same as

Dagnabitol

, but head up the first corner above the ledge. This one is thinner and harder than its neighbor to the left but much safer. When the corner peters out, traverse left into the finish of

Dagnabitol

right below the finishing bulge.

This is the hardest route at the crag. D'Antonio calls this an 11b, but both my partner and I agree that it felt much harder. Two cruxes (third of the way up, and the very top) will keep you engaged.

The first few bolts go up a large, distinctive corner with a featureless slab on the left. Start from a little rock outcropping (better to belay from here, than from the angling, sandy spot below), clip the first bolt, and get established in the corner using a cool, sharp side-pull in the crease of the corner. Stem, palm, and smear your way up this corner for the next 40ish feet. Pulling the small overlap about half way up is a crux (first of two). We though it went about 11-. Move up and right out of the corner and be rewarded with an almost no-hands rest.

The fun part of the climb is now behind you, and it now time to get down to business. This second part may be a bit of a sandbag at 11b, but we may not have found the perfect beta. Start up the face using some side-pulls on the right and some rather small crimps on the headwall. The last bolt is a desperate, out-of-view clip, which may be hard to reach for some, and it only gets harder afterwards. Funky crimps, side-pulls (which all seem to face the wrong way), and pinches lead the way up. Feet are close to non-existent to make this interesting. Getting to the anchor proper is the definite crux of the route (second of two). You'll either need to clip from a very strenuous sidepull, or move past the anchor to a decent rail way behind it, and clip at thigh level. It is weird at best.

Neither one of us could pull the last moves required to gain the anchor, so I'm not sure of the rating (11c/d?).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hillbilly Rock 2