Blinded by the Light

Bitty Bee

Hummer

Happy Ending

Girls do Pinchlingue

Pika Angst

Basted Pikas

Little Bee

To Stand On

Callalo

Bleed, Curse, Try Again

A.G Tumnus

Mr. Jingles

Black Elk Speaks

Fuzzy Navel

Despereaux

Black Mouse Squeaks

Myopic Vision

Crux is between the second & third bolt.  This is a fun little climb.  It will make the 5.7 leader think a bit at the crux, but it's all there.

Scramble up 20ish ft to the top of the pillar and clip the first draw.  I'm right at 6 ft and I could just barely get the draw in from the ledge, so if you are shorter you might have to bust a move or two to make this clip.  Do the first two bolts of Rad Race, traverse left to little bee.  After three more bolts, the route joins and finishes on basted pikas over the roof.  Great route with pockets, crimps, and small sidepulls.

A good warm up along with Black Mouse. Climb the vegetative face up past 3 bolts to a chain anchor. Continue up on the featured face to the crux move on a slopey crimp with bad feet. The upper section is pretty cool with the featured limestone crystals that make awesome holds.

A.G Tumnus' longer and harder counterpart. Sporty pockets and a pinch lead to a very thin crux crimp with slippery feet. Finish on devious black rock.

The most obvious line on the wall. The beautiful yellow pocketed face in the center of the crag. Follow bolts up and right through fun, deep pockets till you establish yourself on a ledge. Climb up the tricky slabby section to a small roof with a jug on the top, then up past an old school bolt to the top. Lots of variety on this one. Crux depends on what you hate most. Most will find the yellow slab section the hardest.

This is a really fun route.  There seems to be three distinct crux-ish parts to this route.  In order of difficulty the crux moves are:  after the fifth bolt, the roof, and pulling above the third bolt.  I found those to be the trickiest.  Shorter people may find getting to the third bolt to be fairly hard.

This route features mostly pockets/crimps, sidepulls, and periodic jugs.  Outside of the cruxes, the climbing felt like 11/12- climbing, with occasional easier moves.  Get on it.  A good way to get used to the climbing on the wall is to do AG Tummus (11d) -> Girls do Pinchlingue (12b) -> Basted Pikas (12c)

A link up Basted Pikas to Bitty Bee with an uber classic crux between the two.

Start off on the easy 15 foot black rock section that puts you onto a ledge. Clip your first bolt and climb good crimps on 5.11 terrain till you're right below the body length roof with your face mashed against it since the good feet are a bit high. Clip the bolt with a chain on it from under the roof(very relieving) and undercling out the roof till you hit the flat jug above it. Now do the crux by lunging for a blind crimp out right while scraping for feet. Slap at what you can till you hit the chains. This felt hard for 12a, but its only one move and the fall is super clean.

While the Northern Utah climbing book gives this no stars, and some might feel the same way, I think its the best one at the crag because of its varied traditional feel. 4 star classic? Not really, but its one of the best I've done in Logan. Casey Hyer must have just missed this gem.

Climb the right leaning crack up through a juggy overhung section, followed by exciting finger jams with perfect positive feet to the crux lieback/undercling around a bulge on slippery yellow rock. Follow the low angle face to the chains.  You can stem, chimney, jam, lieback, jug haul, and crimp on the stellar route. It might look kind of crappy from the ground, but it's really excellent.

Belaying from the top reduces sheath shredding and this route it not really topropable due to its traversing nature.

Technical face climbing from distinct block. Pulling the first small roof is the crux. I think some critical holds have broken off since the FA, making this a pretty stiff few moves. Then there's a rest ledge and a traverse to the right to chains.

Short and bouldery 4 bolter. Just enough pockets and edges to get you through the sequence, though its getting greasy.

Well protected face climb with some underclings and a traverse left for the finish. Nothing too special but fun.

Start in the crack up canyon from Girls do Pinchlingue.  Weird terrain for the duration of the crack.  The crack will arch right with nice features.  Once the crack runs out, you'll trend left on some easier terrain before the crux (12a).  Pull the crux and continue on to a bolt then chain anchors.

Awesome climb with some interesting moves in the crack.  If you did Black Mouse Squeaks, you should probably do this one for namesake.

Climb the easy 5th class black rock up to the ledge. The first 2-3 clips is the 5.11 section, followed by a traverse out right to avoid the roof "To Stand On" mounts. The upper face is quite fun on black rock requiring some creative 5.10 friction moves with positive quartzite crimps abounding.

Fun face climbing with crimps and lots of under-clings. Shares anchors with Mr. Jingles.

Interesting corner leads to two boulder problems with odd but fun beta split by a crux.  First problem is powerful and the second, crimpy and techy.  Great route!

Description

Routes in Rodent Ranch