Begin just right of the right-most arete on the waterfall cliff and climb up the slab to the first bolt.  After the bolt, work your way up a dirty crack until it ends, and a steep 5.9 face awaits you.  For more of a challenge near the bottom, a .10d variation involves starting on the slightly overhanging face left of the arete and going up to the crack.  Only problem is that if you're up for a .10d, you'll find the remaining 55 feet of climbing pretty uneventful.  This way you'll also miss the first bolt, so top roping is probably the best way to go.

Leading to Death

The Falls

The Oracle

Cleotitis

P(iece) O(f) S(hit) Crack

Charlie Solo

Lieback Corner

Nausea

Evil Bolt Greeboo

Degeneration

Clamydia

Anti-Christ

Dendritis

Convulsions

Degeneration Left

Above the Law

Black Dragon

Putrefaction

The crux is after the 2nd bolt and is well protected. After the small roof, you will be in a moss garden. Don't let it discourage you, the climb is still fun and easy.

The Falls starts 100' down directly below the observation deck on the stream bed beside two large fallen logs.  This climb is actually on the left side of the waterfall and can easily be reached by walking down from the right side of the water falls climbs.  The crux starts right off the ground and continues right to the first bolt 15' up.  Pretty bold lead unless you are a solid 5.11 climber!  The remainer of the climb eases off to 5.6 - 5.8 and meanders a bit from bolt to bolt to the top.  The spacing off the bolts is quite far apart and makes for a pretty intimidating lead.  Don't lose concentration until you are actually standing up on top holding onto the observation deck support bars as the last few moves are quite hard and you are about 10' above the last bolt!

This is the left most climb on the clean face just right of the waterfalls.  Moderate face climbing to reach first bolt.  Straight up hard moves to good stance at second bolt.  Crux is moving past second bolt to third bolt.  Here the climb goes up on the left past two bolts to the top.  A GREAT variation moves up and right after third bolt to a stance on a small platform on a blank face protected by a fourth bolt.  The move up is incredible!  You think it's impossible.  Very little smudges for hands and basically no footholds.  Pull up (on nothing) and reach up and left to good hole hold.  This is a must do safe variation which gives huge satisfaction when done!

Bolted face. Up to a break, then up and right. The route has a 5.10 extension up to the upper bolts. If this were cleaned off, it would be an excellent route.

To the left of Nausea and Convulsions. Follow the crack left and clip the first two bolts. Make your way over a big dish with a small bulge pull and continue up the crack. Clip the anchors above a small ledge and get the hell out of there. Pictured as G in the photo.

Fun lieback moves.  The crux comes moving around a boulder 2/3 the way up.

Really fun trad or top rope route.  Difficuly not overwhelming for the novice leader despite moderately strenuous start.  Route eats up medium to large pieces lower down with great lieback hands. Balancey footwork needed to top out.

Follow Convulsions to the third bolt above the big indented dish thing. Move left and follow the crack to the left of the crack that you would follow on Convulsions. Stay left of the fourth bolt of Convulsions on the face and gradually move right toward the anchors that Convulsions and Lead to Death share. Shown as K on the topo attached. Never been cleaned. Might be lead-able.

This route is found on the right side of the first clean face just right of the water falls.  Moderate climbing to reach first bolt.  Gear can be placed above this in cracks as the second bolt is quite a ways away.  Above the second bolt on the left is another bolt which could be used although it's a bit tough to get to.  The climb doesn't go out here as this bolt is used on a variation of the climb to the left but it does help as protection. Although the climbing eases off to 5.8, there is a long runout to the last bolt but trad gear can be placed in the crack to the right and/or a hole on the left.  The last moves over the top are a surprise.

Tresa Black's Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area guide book rates this as 5.10c.  As described here there is nothing harder than 5.9+, if that.  The only way I can see to make this harder is to climb the thin face on the bottom just left of obvious path to the first bolt.  This doesn't make sense but is fun to do.

Location: this is the furthest right climb on the right side of the waterfall area. The initial dihedral is usually the first thing seen when reaching the base of this climbing area. This route involves a large simple dihedral for the first forty feet, leading to the first bolt, which is located about 35 or so feet off the ground.

After the first bolt, traverse right up a slabby face with an interesting crux located right before the second bolt.

The 5.9+ route is all the way out to the right, on the face following the bolt line directly to the anchor. (Anything further left than this is significantly easier and should be considered as a variation on

Degeneration Left

.

This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique.  The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff.  The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up.  Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery.  Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds.  Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper!  Moving past the "clams" requires ingenuity and strength.  The remainder of the climb is easier slab climbing.  Leading this route is quite a bit harder than on a TR as it's difficult enough moving hands from one hold to another let alone trying to clip the bolt and then clip the rope!  An excellent test piece!

This route finishes up the striking arete between The "Greeboo" and "Clamydia" and begins in a right-facing corner leading to a lieback edge (crux). There is an alternative direct start called "Excessive Force" (5.12a) that involves difficult mantles directly up to the lieback.

To the right of Clamydia. See photo in Waterfall Cliff page for details.

Degeneration Left follows the chimney up to the anchors, probably 5.6 or 5.7.

Follow the thin crack up to the first bolt and continue slightly right following the crack to the second bolt and continue straight up.

To the right of Cleotitis. See picture in Waterfall Cliff page for beta and location.

Most of this route is a 5.10c.  The 11a crux involves coming out of the overhang immediately after the 4th bolt.  It's a bouldery move; dropknee the right leg and go from the undercling under the roof to a pocket up to your left.  If you're short & have iron tendons, go to the mono below the pocket.  Don't worry; this move can be dodged by going left around the overhang if you're not up to it.  Finishing the route to the anchors is a little run out, but really easy.

Description

Protection

Routes in Waterfall Cliff