A more natural variation on Mrs. Butterworth's.

Climb the first half of Mrs. B's, and when that route moves left, continue straight up hand cracks. Currently no anchor, easy to traverse to the anchor of Mrs. B's to lower off. If someone else has already done this please feel free to correct the FA info.

VT Dark Amber

5.7 Trad Route

[Redacted]

Mr. Clean

Maple Bar

Go For Broke

Amazing Grace

The Son

The Holy Ghost

Have You Been Huffing

The Father

Coffee Hour

Leaf Hallucination

College Girl

Juggy pulling down low, from the roof to the top is beautiful techy face climbing with stacked cruxes.

No anchors currently. Crack just to the left of "Go For Broke". Standard rack.

Fun climbing on an arete and dihedral down low, pull the roof and climb the tan face (as Tan as Mr. Clean's face) to the top.

Another route bolted during an early spring hail and lightning storm. I thought about calling it "Thor god of thunder" because every time I swung my hammer it seemed like the gods unleashed another burst of thunder and wind. Ultimately it got it's name from the excellent Maple Bars available at the Kamas Cheveron station. This route has a perplexing boulder problem off the third bolt, and leads to an exposed "sewing machine leg" tour up the arete. Don't be afraid to reach around the arete to find holds.

Bolted and FA'd on Father's Day 2017 in honor of Joi's Dad, who loved to spend time with his family fishing Mirror Lake.  He was fond of advising Joi to "Go for Broke". A beautiful route for a beautiful man, in a beautiful place. Moderate crimp fest from the ground to the chains. Start on the diving board of rock that sticks out.

It's all in the name. Elegance and endurance. Rock Yoga. This is an incredible route. My favorite at Reids, which given the surrounding quality, is saying something.

High quality moderate edging down low leads to a strenuous three-move crux sequence, which leads to jugs.

Cruxy boulder problem off the start, moderate middle, a finger crack, and a fantastic roof sequence with airy exposure and edges to the top.

Big edges down low lead to a solid rest stance before decoding the roof sequence, which when done right, goes at a surprisingly moderate grade. In case you weren't pumped enough, more edges with great exposure leads you to clip the tallest anchors of the Holy Trinity routes. Can TR "The Son" from these anchors by clipping directionals.

Bolted on lead in a hail storm, some of the clipping stances are awkward down low, but once through the third bolt the climbing moves right and eases up to enjoyable movements and a beautiful view from the top.

Wild route. Starts in a shallow bolted chimney. Where climbing is easy, bolts are generously spaced. Bolts go up what is obviously a choss pile, about half way up the bolts break left out onto the arete. When you can't see your next bolt, it's likely out left. Clip the bolt, and grope up above it on the arete searching for a large mantleshelf. Mantle. Proceed up a cryptic arete. I highly discourage supplementing the bolts with trad gear. If you're not comfortable with long lead outs on 5.8 terrain, don't climb the route. The bolts are placed where the rock is least likely to fall out. Cams/nuts could potentially dislodge large blocks killing your belayer. Despite the choss middle section, the arete climbing is immaculate and immensely classic.

You think it's going to be easy, but then it ends up being hard. Frequently wet down low, but nice jugs up high. If you push a little longer you can climax a second time.

Description

Protection

Routes in Reids Basin