Pitch one is 5.8 trad with one bolt. Decent but not great. Good pro. Full rope 50m pitch. Hard to see belay legde up and left. Ledge is good with two bolt abchor. Pitch two is classic full rope 50m pitch. Five bolts and a piton. Can add some small cams. Crux is headwall with large hueco and super crimpers. Pitch two is exposed and awesome. This climb is often overlooked. Pitch two is 10a.

True Grip

Flake Roof Indirect

Flake Roof

The Hourglass

Perverts Delight

This pitch starts from the same exposed and sloping ledge as for Flake Roof.  Climb the hueco arete up past the right side of the roof.   

  To end the pitch there are two options.  One finish is to step left to Flake Roof anchor.  Piana's book advises placing a nut for a directional.  The other finish is to continue up and right to the belay on True Grip.  Then finish via the excellent second pitch of Flake Roof, 5.10.  The left finish is nice for top roping the 5.11+.  The right hand connection to Flake Roof is the recommended classic.  

  I liked the Indirect better than Flake Roof because the holds were more fun and the protection was better. 

This mini showstopper has seen plenty of action and spit off more than a few of them.  The easy looking dihedral is more awkward than you would think, and the roof move is, well, very roofy.  If you can unlock the secret to the circus type moves that get you over the lip, it might just feel like hard 5.10.  If you botch it, it will probably feel like 5.12.  For most leaders, it will clock in at mid 5.11.

Two pitches, start in a small alcove at the base with a fist sized crack that trends up and to the left to (2) sheltered ledges.  Then you have a choice of going center, left, or right.  All seem to go at about the same difficulty although the amount of protection varies.  Climb about another 100' to a very spacious ledge and belay.   

  Pitch 2 runs up to the left and starts about 15' below a medium sized crack, climb the crack and continue upward either by climbing out onto the face with sparse protection or by continuing to the left.

After clipping the first bolt, the business is right there for you.  As of 10/07 it "appears" a hold has broken near the first bolt.  If so, it may be much harder than the original 11+ rating.  The fixed pin will probably keep you off the deck if you blow the second bolt clip.  Continue up and right via a few long reaches to some nice buckets.  This thing bakes in the sun, so hit on a cold day or early in the a.m.

This small, brushy alcove sits in a raise area adjacent to the left side of the Cakewalk Wall. It features a few good routes including Flake Roof (5.11) and True Grip (5.10-).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Perverted Sanctuary