Fun, challenging climbing with some awkward-seeming moves on small to medium edges.

Begin and the line immediately starts with the small edges and a bit of overhanging rock. Dancing back and forth while searching for less-than-large or less-than-positive edges is required until a brief respite is reached at the third bolt. The hard part awaits: moving up and left past the fourth bolt onto tenuous, off-camber holds until finally more welcoming holds are reached.

Continue up and to the left pair of the two sets of chains that are visible.

Angus

Andy's 10

Shot Down in Flames

If God's On The Left

Send For The Man

Lemme Put My Love Into You

It's a Long Way to the Top

Whole Lotta Rosie

Hell's Bells

Logical Fallacy

Givin the Dog a Bone

Back in Black

Thunderstruck

If You Wanna Rock N' Roll

For Those About To Rock (We Salute You)

A strenuous, overhanging traverse makes this an exciting line.

Start up the shallow, right-facing corner and clip the first two bolts. Find a way to the third bolt to the right, under the roof. Head up and traverse right and up along the lip of the roof, stopping for a strenuous clip at the fourth bolt. Keep moving right a bit and then head up, clipping several more bolts to the chains. (As you head up youll see two sets of gray-painted chain anchors; go to the left set).

A rousing start on undercut, overhanging rock through three bolts, followed by easier cruising to the chains.

Start on positive holds with tricky feet, positioning your body to make the best use of the holds you see.

After the third bolt trend up and right.

Start on a ledge, just to the right of a black streak (containing

Back in Black

and below a lighter streak that is immediately right of the black streak. Climb to the third bolt and decide how best to surmount the bulge. There is some looser, crumblier rock to the left of the bulge.

After the bulge follow positive and not-so-positive edges through a steeper section to a small roof (the last bolt is on the edge). After the little roof it is easier climbing to the anchors.

This was originally a four-bolt Aaron Wilkenson project that lay fallow for six or seven years.

The second pitch of

Send For The Man

(5.10a) can be started from the top of this route, if desired.

This thing doesn't look like much. At first glance, you think to yourself "That's 5.8? Nah, it looks easier than that!" Yeah, it's easier than that... until you get to the 5.8 roof.

Start ten or so feet left of Givin the Dog a Bone and hand traverse over using the rightward-leaning diagonal crack. Scramble up into a corner, get some gear in, then climb up a bit more to the roof. The crack under the roof takes good gear. Surmount the roof using less-than-ideal holds and finish her off with an easy diagonal crack leading to the chains.

A very enjoyable, two-pitch climb.

P1

(60', 5.7) A fun, interesting pitch on good feet and positive handholds through very good quality rock. Start on a small ledge and climb low-angled terrain through the first bolt to a short headwall. A fun move or two to get past the steep bit, clip a bolt, and then bear left.

Climb a steeper section through three bolts on good holds, and then continue on somewhat lowered angled rock to the anchors.

P2

(80', 5.10a) Climb up and left from the anchor past two bolts to an overhanging v-slot. Clip the bolt under the intimidating overhang with a longer draw and get established via positive handholds and small footholds. Fun stemming and liebacking moves.

Continue up on large handholds to another intimidating overhang with rounded, rough-textured handholds. Another series of really fun, big moves surmounts this feature. Continue up and over the last small overhang and look left and back for the chain anchors.

Walk off north (quick and easy) or two single rope rappels.

A really fun bit of climbing with big holds where you need them.

Start with a bit of somewhat overhanging, intimidating-looking terrain that fortunately is relatively easy to overcome with some big holds. Continue up using large holds through a vertical section or two until a fun, overhanging bit just before the chains.

The anchor is set back above a large ledge; rappelling rather than lowering will save your rope.

An enjoyable, mostly moderate route with the crux at the top consisting of two or three pretty hard moves on tiny, sharp holds.

Andy's start: Start below the first bolt and make several bouldery, insecure moves through the second bolt. Mid 5.11.

What everybody else does: Stand on the boulder immediately uphill, use some jugs and the obvious rail and surf right, avoiding the undercut, slopey, madness. 5.9-5.10a or so.

After the second bolt continue upwards making moderate moves through occasionally broken, but mostly solid rock.  Slings are useful (but not required) at two bolts to manage rope drag (4th and 8th, if I remember correctly).

Eventually, you'll come to the tenth bolt. At this point, branching right takes you into

If You Wanna Rock N' Roll

. Instead, follow the next four bolts straight up through the crux, and finish on the chains slightly right of the bolt line.

This climbs the chimney squeeze slot to the left of Thunderstruck. Scramble to the base of the slot and place some cams in the water pockets at the bottom of the slot and commit to the awkward movement of entering the slot. Palm your way up until you can pull thru the steep bulge ending. Ends on the same anchors as the route to the left, High Voltage.

Some enjoyable jug-hauling up overhanging quartzite.

Start up less-than vertical rock to the first bolt, and then immediately start on overhanging rock. Clip the second bolt and power your way up. After surmounting the initial overhang the angle eases a bit but there is still some steep terrain until about twenty feet from the chains (a bit runout over easy terrain from the last bolt).

This is an adventurous route that starts above the main AC/DC Wall.

Pitch 1: Start up easy climbing to a fun, short chimney section (5.6 crux). Belay at a big bush after the angle eases off.

Move the belay 30' up the slope to the base of the nice-looking slab.

Pitch 2: Head up the solid slab and belay either at some bushes or using horizontal cracks. 5.5

Head up-slope. And belay at the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 3: "Who's the choss?" The best/scariest (and worst) pitch of the route. Start on OK rock just right of a shallow, chossy, right-leaning crack. Pro is sparse. Make a tricky move over a bulge, but don't fall--there's groundfall potential. Continue up past (through?) a bush, then up and left to another bush you can sling. Keep going left and go over another bulge (5.8 crux). Belay to the right in some very thin vertical cracks, plus some cracks (green and red Camalot) near ground level. Tricky belay.

Pitch 4: Easier climbing through more bushes leads to a steeper section right at the top (crux). More bad fall potential. Mind the death block at the bottom of the steep part. It's big and moves when you touch it. Sling a boulder/spike on top with a cordalette for the belay. (5.7)

Descent: Head north, then west along faint game trails up to the top of Trilogy. From the top of Trilogy, either head down the Trilogy Gully (good if you've got a bag at the base of the route that you need to pick up) or continue west past Bad Bananas to the canyon floor.

Start on a ledge above the talus field in the gully. The moves to the first bolt are kind of balancy. Getting to and clipping the second bolt is a bit reachy, and you dont want to fall before clipping the second bolt.

Once the second bolt is clipped the real business begins. A couple of pockets that force you right, a jug or two, sidepulls, and hidden holds make for an interesting sequence to the third bolt. Good feet at this point allow a quick rest before committing to the moves to get over a bulge to the fourth bolt. After the fourth bolt, it is easy climbing to the chains.

A short, balancy, vertical-to-slightly-overhanging route on solid, black-streaked quartzite.

Start on the upper of two ledges and climb to the first bolt over easier terrain (but dont fall).

Using primarily crimps and small edges for feet ease your way up the route. There is one bucket on the route in the midst of a bulge. You wont want to leave it, but dont dawdle because the most desperate bit is getting up past the last bolt.

A fun, moderate route with a nervy feeling of exposure at the top.  This line branches off right from

It's a Long Way to the Top

after the tenth bolt.

Andy's start: Start below the first bolt and make several bouldery, insecure moves through the second bolt. Mid 5.11 (and obviously, the overall route is not then 5.10a).

What everybody else does: Stand on the boulder immediately uphill, use some jugs and the obvious rail and surf right, avoiding the undercut, slopey, madness. 5.9-5.10a or so.

After the second bolt continue up making moderate moves through occasionally broken, mostly solid rock.  Slings are useful (but not required) at three bolts to manage rope drag (4th, 8th, and 10th, if I remember correctly.

Eventually, you'll come to the tenth bolt. At this point, going straight up takes you into the crux for

It's a Long Way to the Top

so head right and up through some really fun jugs, with an insecure move here and there.

Want to feel like you're climbing a route in the mountains but don't want to be bothered to actually have to walk all the way up there? This route is for you. It's long, follows a sort of natural passage up the rock, and stays interesting the whole way up. Really good rock is broken up by a few bands of chossy white loveliness. The crux is surmounting a bulge at the 8th bolt. Hint: go right, but not too far right.

A lot of the ledges and holds have small pebbles on them. It's a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet or to hide under the overhang at the start.

This is the only route on the wall with tan powder-coated bolt hangers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in AC/DC Wall