Start below the crack and head up a little seam with no pro (5.7) and some moss. Reach a good stance at the base of the crack. Look up (this thing is steep!) and take some deep breaths. Get in some good gear and commit yourself. Sweet crimp out right after you get established. Reach for some fist jams and pull the crux. Hmm, that's it.. Then climb to the anchors passing an old bolt, not that hard.

Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam

Private Pepper

Revolver Arete

The Greatest Commandment, Mark 12:30

This route may feel like a 5.12 if trying to onsight it. It is the bolted line to climber's left of, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," and starts from the ground behind a large block in front of bolt 1. Move up via a fun, mildy overhanging compression boulder problem past two bolts, then figure out how to get on top of the bulge. Here you will find a good rest. Don't forget to take a look down and enjoy the perspective from this unique perch. When ready, clip bolt 3 and enjoy some balancy and technical face moves up to bolt 4 then smear and crank your way up the final slab onto easy ground to gain the anchor.

It is possible to set up a top-rope on this route if you lead one of the routes to the right or left. Left is, "Private Pepper," 5.7, and right is, "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Hand Jam," 5.10b. When top-roping, the bulge tends to work the rope pretty hard so I recommend using a static rope or a rope of which you don't mind wearing the sheath. About 35 meters of rope should work fine.

"Start at the notch between Midnight Spire and the far left side of Jam Crack Wall. Great way to set up a TR for 'Sgt. Pepper’s' - John Knight

The lichen and vegetation ledges detract from the quality of this climb however the short headwall at the top is a lot of fun and makes the climb worth doing.

Note that if you have a 60m and are using Pvt Pepper to TR Sgt Pepper, an intermediate rap to the Revolver or Fester Finger anchors is required. A directional is helpful for the TR.

Low crux with a runout section of easy slab. Between 5th and 6th bolt.  Start is pretty mossy and lots of lichen can be found throughout, but fun movement and a great view from the bench like rock just below the chains, just take care on some fragile sections near the top that are easy to avoid. Grade is probably accurate for now (although an old book gave it a 5.11A TR grade), but could be easier after some cleaning.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jamcrack Wall