Climb the slightly overhung, splitter hand crack left of Fruit of the Loin.

Slice of Spice

Mango Love

Fruit of My Loins

Witness the Citrus

Just Peachy Mon

Melon Baller

Disco Strangler

Bovine Stimulator

Fruit Snoot

Lichen Lessons

Jew Jew Fruit

Breakfast at Koops

Drosophila

Drag City

J's on My Feet

Banana Hammock

Pineapple Express

Banana Split

Lucy in the Sky (extension to Strawberry Fields)

Hourglass Crack

Strawberry Fields

If You Like Pina Coladas (Open Project)

Mojo Bro Tank Bar Crawl

Flaccid Fruit

Orchard Pest

Fruit by the Foot

Tennis Elbow

Heath Ledger

Poppin Cherries

Peach Fuzz

Fruitcake

First Date

Scramble up to a wide corner just below the chockstone, wrangle the block to gain a good stance above then enter the fist crack leading all the way to the chains.

Start up the obvious line of pockets, left of the blunt arête, to a small ledge. Paw your way through non-holds to a good edge then bust out left into a hard, sharp boulder with bad feet.

Hard boulder problem heading right from the hueco below the third bolt. Third bolt is a bit left of the climbing and is best stick clipped. Pleasant climbing with some long reaches for the remainder of the route.

This route is up there with the best 5.11s I've ever climbed. Long, enduro climbing on jugs with a cruxy roof down low make this one not to be missed in MFRP. Climb up smooth rock between ledges and good flakes to the big roof. Consider back-cleaning the first two or three quickdraws after you clipped above each one to make cleaning the route easier.

Pull the roof and enjoy straight-forward jug hauling forever. Or about 70 feet to be more precise. Super, super fun and worth the hike to the wall just for this route alone.

Vertical climbing on bullet stone for 3/4 of the route.  Mantle up into a pod after making a high reach from the ground.  Trend up and left before swinging back right to encounter good but thin edges and long reaches.  Finish off the crux technical section by heading back left under the overhang getting close to the line of

Jew Jew Fruit

.  Don't cheat yourself of the final moves to the finish by clipping low.

Good vertical climbing on a variety of holds.  High step to get started moving up on horizontal bands.  Follow a vertical crack for two bolts before encountering a crimpy crux on small edges and narrow slots before gain jugs and lower angle rock to the finish.  Still pretty sandy right now but should clean up for a solid 10+.

Sequential true slab climbing on slimpers and iron oxide pockets. Shares anchors with Disco Strangler.

Start just left of Drosophilia and climb 2 to 3 bolts and move right into some big moves between jugs.  Rest up then take on a stopper boulder problem to easier climbing after.  Equipped by Mike Farnsworth.

Climb up through a featured face to a small roof. Pull the roof and climb through some thin, pocketed crux to the anchors.

Climb a finger crack to start rest on the ledge then fire up the beautiful golden face to a pumpy finish

While

Witness the Citrus

may be the eye-catching 11 at this crag, this line has superior movement all the way to the chains.  Begin up a left hand flake making a few big moves on fairly good holds before a series of boulder problems on jugs, pinches, pockets and sidepulls.  Although the angle steepens near the end, the holds improve leading to the chains.

Climb a vertical wall with lots of big moves to incuts awesome climbing

Can be done in one or two pitches.  Start in an easy, but dirty and difficult to protect, offwidth.  More enjoyable climbing waits above.

Shares anchors with Heath Ledger.

Start on a ledge 10 feet left of breakfast at koops.  Share the first four bolts with Mojo bro tank climbing through technical crimping (11+).  After the fourth bolt move right to a welcoming rest and a perma draw.  Rest up and climb through four more bolts of harder climbing.  Several v2/3 boulder problems separated by good rests lead to a heartbreaker throw to a good jug at the top of the wall to clip the chains.

Start off the ground with tough movement for a couple of bolts on cool sidepulls, leading to a no-hands rest near the third bolt. Ride the banana hammock for as long as you like before moving up another bolt to a couple difficult moves. Continue to the top on mostly jugs with a few tough moves thrown in.

Fantastic route.

Big moves off good holds with a crux midway.  Long reaches or easy lunges through the first two bolts leads to a huge jug below the the third and the crux which makes use of a slopey sidepull to make your way up to better pockets.  A couple more long moves on good edges will bring you to the chains.  Short for this section of the wall but powerful.

A very good route but it lacks the amount of twisting, turning and intricacies of Breakfast at Koop's which knocks it down a star.

Blocky climbing to a bit of a run out to the anchors.

This is the extension to

Strawberry Fields

. Continue up from the first set of anchors on

Strawberry Fields

through two roofs to a no-hands rest and a second set of anchors which can be used to belay for the overhanging second pitch.  The route can be climbed as a single pitch or in two pitches.

I submitted this route because I haven't seen it in on MP and couldn't find info about whether a 60m rope would work and the state of the anchors, etc, so I climbed it with a 60m and found it was fine. However, both ends were in the air after getting down. I'd recommend tying knots and using a 70m. The anchors are new glue-ins as of April 2017 and looked bomber, but placed such that you have to do the final chimney moves before you can clip them. There are no intermediate bail bolts or anchors. Belaying from top isn't necessary. A belay from the ground will be pretty hard to get going at first, but fine after that. Helmets are NOT recommended because of the chimney at the top, but wearing a helmet on the ground is HIGHLY recommended. Most holds are solid, but I did dislodge some during my ascent. Since the base is usually pretty crowded with sport climbers, you'd want to make sure you yell very loudly if you do dislodge anything.

The climbing is steep, varied, and burly. There are also at least two sit down ledges and a few no hands rests followed by more strenuous climbing. I'd say the beginning 1/3 is probably the hardest technically. The middle 1/3 is more endurancy with a nice long section of jug hauling but sparse gear, and the final 1/3 is unremarkable except for the nasty chimney.

The top of the chimney was slimy and wet making it more exciting, but it is only about two body lengths. It was tight for me and it flares outwards a bit. The walls of the chimney are pretty smooth and not many edges could be found to make the struggle for upward progress easier. Bomber keyhole slot for a medium or large nut in the chimney just before the anchors protects the exit from the chimney.

Boulder the start and enjoy tufa-like pinches. A little chossy right now, but should clean up to be a good route. Optional extension (Lucy in the Sky) to take the route to 11b. Good view from the top.

Start just left of Drosophilia, climb for 2 to 3 bolts then split left to meet up with a good rest before several bolts of sustained slab climbing.  Equipped by Scott Curran

Share the first four bolts of technical face climbing with J's.  Move left at the fourth to a welcomed rest and a perma draw.  Next take on 4 bolts of tough climbing with several rests between.

Climb the steep face to the left of

Fruit by the Foot

. A stopper crux midway followed by flowy easier climbing to the top.

Climb the low-angle/vertical dihedral up to a roof. Move out right and up through roof, anchors up at ledge in middle of the wall.

Titled as "Fruit of the Loin" in Ray's 1st ed. Miller Fork guidebook

Tricky boulder problems with good rests between lead to a huge jug rest before the last bolt (11+).  Rest up as a difficult (v3ish) boulder problem awaits you going to the anchor.  Hit the big jug just above the anchors or take the big whip.

Surmount a small ledge of dirt and tree roots to gain the bottom hand crack. Once established, jam up the beginning until you can layback the flake. Continue past the flake up a short, wide section, albeit mostly on face holds.

One of the coolest looking routes at Fruit wall. It looks like the cliff melted over to the right. A slightly bouldery start leads to a lot of ledges and jugs. Pull over some jugs and finish on some fancy slab to the anchors.

Blocky not great climbing. Not the best route on the wall.

Very high quality climbing on interesting features.  Begin up a right facing grove with some great movement on solid stone.  Tackle a tricky sequence to reach the initial ledge and a good rest before the headwall above.   Some desperate moves await above the 5th bolt on thin crimps before the final run to the chains.

Scramble up to the small roof, place a solid 0.4 camalot, and pull yourself into the dihedral using a sneaky jug. Continue up the hollow flake to a wider crack above. Finish with a nice lichen-covered top-out.

A nice warm up. Start on an interesting left hand pinch thing and make a hardish move off the ground then follow jug plates to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fruit Wall