Flake to Nowhere

Walk on the Mild Side

Short Stuff

Dirty Meat

Longitudinal Wave

The Tax Is Too Steep

Climb Out or Ground Out

Easy Stuff

Help

Entrance Exam

Standard Route AKA Open Book

Delirious

Where Eagles Dare

Jack the Dripper

Bivy Route

Stevie's Spanking

Foxy Lady

Bloody Phalanges

Crankenstein

Punks in the Gunks

Route Awakening

Happy Face

Reckless Abandon

Seamless

Talus Scout

The Only Frontier

Element 115

38 and Drug Free

The Eagle's Gift

Highlander

Blaze of Glory

Corner Line

Chinese Water Torture Direct

The Eagle Has Landed

Attitude Adjuster

Slice of the Gunks

Texas Two Step

Alley Fox

Eagle Direct

Root of Choice

Apple Jam

All Seriousness Aside

Maine Bound Memorial Route

Scrappy Face

Sales Flake

No Rest for the Wicked

Hard Stuff

Another Bolted Face Climb

What's In a Name?

Eavesy Stuff

Squeezed In

Rainy Day Deliverance

Witch Wonder

Amber Waves of Grain

Sales Pitch

Upside down staircase

Crankcase

Wheaties

Alleyway

Airline

Pried and Joy

Wave Guide

Down Under

Broken holds have made this climb even harder.

Classic. Follow the right traversing line of bolts from the far right end of wheaties ledge. Follow the bolted traverse out right to a pleasent ledge, move right until anchors. Continue up a steep face past an assortment of bolts, to a dike. Continue up the dike to a two bolt anchor.

Tackle the shallow, right facing dihedral and straight up the face above. The moves are not exactly obvious which makes it a little bit of fun although it could use a cleaning.

Recomended. Thin Cristal pinching leads to a classic mantle over a bulge. THe bulge distinguished this climb from surrounding climbs.

This route starts on a 15 sq. ft. platform (roughly) to the right of "Texas Two Step".  Right off the deck you'll find a nice grippy (and sharp) start into a nice friction section, which will lead you to the crux. You'll find more sharp quartzite crystals and crimpers at the crux (located over half to 3/4 way to the top). This portion of "The Tax Is Too Steep" will leave you balancing on the tip of your toes and praying for a 'thank God hold' to magically appear before you cut loose. The route ends/tops out on the edge of "Catwalk" ledge. "Catwalk" ledge runs the distance from directly above "Texas Two Step", continuing several yards past "The Tax Is Too Steep". 

  All in all its a very good climb to warm up to and work on your balance. From what I gather you can start this route below the 15 sq. ft. platform where "Texas Two Step" instead of taking the ledge staircase that leads to "The Tax Is Too Steep".

This is the distinct dihedral corner topped by a large block to the far left (while looking at the wall) of the "Practice Wall."  Follow the finger crack up the back of the dihedral until you reach the block at the top.  Then work the horizontal crack to the left until you are out from under the roof.

Short slab to blocky climbing followed by crack running through a dihedral at the upper portion of the climb. A little stemming in the dihedral or laybacking keeps the upper portion interesting. One of the better pitches on the practice wall, IMO. Good lead for the 5.7 leader as it takes great gear 

Right Facing corner/bulge system on the entrance wall.  Some tricky moves, a big reach or two, and thin footwork throughout.  Much of the difficulty is finding the holds and realizing the moves.  The rest of the difficulty is dealing with small/sharp crimps and awkward stances.

Short slabby section to a ledge into a dihedral, step right and continue straight up to a new looking two bolt anchor with chains and rap rings.

A classic line, although rarely repeated due to major runouts with groundfall potential and 1/4" bolts placed on hooks on the initial on-sight ascent. This route climbs the dark face 20' to the right of wheaties. The first bolt is located 30+ feet up. Climb to a comfortable ledge, then continue into a left facing dihedral.

The best 5.10 in Clifton.    P1: Start up the left side of a blank face to horizontal with hidden piton, traverse right and up the finger crack to a ledge. Continue past a bolt to crossover ledge. P2: Follow out right and up to a gear belay at horizontals. P3: Traverse left onto the face and climb up the exposed face past three bolts to a bolt anchor, or top out.

Starts 20' right of Punks in the Gunks, below the largest point of the above roof.  Start up a bulge (1st crux) perhaps getting a spot until you clip the first bolt.  Then up low angle climbing with positive holds.  Come up to a small roof (second crux) - pull it on the right on positive holds.  Continue up to a prominent ledge (last tricky part) that's big enough for a bivy! 

  This route is great and well-protected, do it! 

blocky climbing with finicky gear. Bit dirty when we climbed it. Not the best lead for a 5.7 climber due to finicky gear down low.

The old guidebook says that this route likes to spit you off. It's techy, delicate, powerful, and actually quite fun. It starts with a low angle scramble up to the ledge, then figure out a sequence through the tiny holds and tiny feet up the vertical wall and over the first bulge. The first jug on the route comes at 2/3rd height and is followed by a little boulder problem to get over the next bulge. Big moves between big holds will get you to the anchor. Don't blow the last move or you'll have to go through it all again for the send!

Unique for clifton, this route offers positive holds and pumpy climbing through the largest roof at the cliff. P1 passes through a couple "bivy ledges" aiming for a right facing flake with a bolt. After the flake, look left for a bolted belay on a large blocky ledge. P2 Take on the daunting diamond shaped roof, by traversing right past fixed gear and some bolts.

A good way to access the Toilet Bowl feature - not to be missed. 

  Start right of Cereal Killer on a clean slab below a small roof.  Climb the slab on ledges trending right to below the roof.  Go around the right side of the roof and up the face following a groove.  Follow the bolt line (10b) or stay slightly right (easier) up to a ledge with a bolt anchor.

An obvious, inviting slab with four bolts.  Originally a top rope route or solo, this is now a safe and appealing lead at a moderate grade.  Rappel from tree.  A broken hold raised the grade a notch.

Overheard as I rack up for this climb: "That thing is so thin!" Is it a steep slab or a less than vertical face climb? You be the judge. Crimp and technique your way past 4 bolts to the anchor. Somewhere in there are a few good holds and some fun moves. The toughest moves come between the first two bolts and just before the last bolt. Pitching off just before the anchor is heartbreaking.

A short, powerful route on a boulder on the southern approach trail.  Moves from left to right, and then right up the face of this boulder.  Some of the moves may be a little bit easier if you are tall.

A difficult line requiring many top ropes. Climb a slab at ground level, until you junction with walk on the mild side at a ledge. Continue up a shallow curving arete on the left. Their is an uncompleted second pitch.

An awesome route with thin slab/face climbing plus a small roof.   Start up a slab trending slightly left past bolts and some small ledges to base of roof.  Pull over the roof to an alcove and move right to an airy bolt anchor around corner.  165' of rope will just get you back to the ground.

up 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to horizontals on blocky holds past small overhang crux to 2 bolt belay   up flakes to classic face climbing on blunt arete crux to another 2 bolt belay

Climb up vertical rock on mostly positive holds.  This route is unique due to the absence of the usual Clifton crystal pinching.  The dike futures offer an array of jugs, side pulls, and a few pockets.  The crux comes about mid way up the climb where you need to place a cam in a horizontal and make a move up to a nice side pull/jug.

Easy moves up big blocks then a moderate left facing corner. Tops off onto a ledge to the right.

Move right from start of Stevie's Spanking up thin moves to below a roof.  Traverse right on horizontals.  Variation: continue right up corner.  Both routes were originally protected with a pin.

The most direct line on the cliff. This route climbs the distinct white  bleached streak 25 feet to the right of wheaties, 5 ft to the righ tof a large dropoff. Climb the steep face to the first band of horizontals. More crystal pinching through the middle tierpast ledge to faint arete and anchors.

Climb a ten foot, right-facing flake then make a long reach to a finger jam over the room.  Just when you think it's over, balance straight up face to join Alleyway.  Another popular testpiece.

A fine moderate trad route.  Pull through horizontal cracks on  clean vertical rock for 30ft.  Pull the crux at the end of the vertical section (5.8), and follow easy low angle rock up to anchors.

Follow a finger crack to a tree ledge then move past several bolts to anchor.  Originally done with one bolt and tricky stopper placements.

This route starts on Alleyway and continues up instead. Aim for the single bolt. It's a bit more of a natural and aesthetic line, because it runs straight up. The climbing is mostly <5.7 with a 5.8 crux move.

A variation to the first pitch of Where Eagles Dare or a great single pitch on its own. Follow bolts directly up the thin face to the finger crack. Plug some small gear and climb the crack to the anchor.

Climb up the right facing corner, which forms the right end of the 5.10 Ledge.  A nice route when dry, however this route often wet.    This is the best way to access the 5.10 Ledge even when its damp.

You know you wanna touch those huge jugs. Work your way up to the roof, then pull through on huge holds with a hard move coming onto the face above. From here, continue up the black face on small holds past several bolts.

A fun, short boulder problem of a route. It could be bouldered with a lot of pads. Start directly beneath the bolts and climb straight up on decent crimps. 

Start on the slab for sales pitch clip a low bolt, straight up to the left facing flame to the right of sales pitch. Two new bolts up high protect the crux slightly reachy move and top out. You can redirect for a top rope using a large sling around the tree right on the top out and use sales pitch anchors. Or use the tree as an anchor, but it’s on the smaller side.

The steep face just to the right of Wheaties (the distinct layback crack). The climb just keeps on going. Climb past of total of 7 bolts.

Looks can be deceiving. The top half of this climb is a juggy crack, while the bottom is a harmless looking corner/face. Getting off the ground and making any upward movement is tricky but may involve some slopers, crimps, and/or heel hooks. The crack is so thin at the bottom it is barely usable. Once you get to the left hand sidepull, you can make a huge move up into the good holds, plug some gear and finish it up.

Sustained delicate moves over small crimpy holds.  Although not a pure slab climb, the angle is less than vertical.  The climb is a little bit dirty at the end.

Diagonals right past 3 bolts (2 hangers have been removed) to trees.

Traverse to the right from Easy Stuff past bolts.

An awesome classic two pitch crack climb that you'll want to do over and over. 

  For the first pitch you can either climb the bolted chunky monkey arête of Highlander (5.7) or slither up the dirty dihedral and slamming through a slot chimney (5.9) 

  For the second pitch follow the crack up and through a squeeze chimney that's quite a squeeze, on the scale of something like being born. Getting into the chimney's the crux. Then follow the easy crack the rest of the way up to the anchor bolts @ the top. (5.7) 

  It's a fun climb, with beautiful views. Bring some friends for a party because the belay ledge between the two pitches is huge!

One of the first sport routes to take on the steep main face from the bottom up. Follow a slab up past two bolts to the start of walk on th emile side on wheaties ledge. Continue up the s-shaped stripe to a belay at horizontals. COntinue up past the crux bulge and several more bolts to an anchor.

A short, bouldery route that requires some strong fingers. Start up easy terrain with a crack for hands and slabby feet until you reach the first bolt. Head straight up using a short crack on the right, then some crimps, followed by a slopey seam. The crux comes at the top. Once you've figured out how to get there, topping out is easy. 

 A quick way to set up a toprope is to run a lap on the bolted first pitch of Crossover.

Pumpy climbing on polished granite. Steep for a 5.8 trad climb.

An easy finger crack leads into crimpy and reachy face moves. Two bolts protect the face climbing which tops out at a ledge with a beefy two bolt anchor.

Another classic!  Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge.  Belay here or continue forty feet to a bolt anchor.  The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge.  The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake.

The path of least resistance moving left on angular hold and a ramp then straight up and right to a ledge.

There's a bolted climb right next to Bivy Route that has some fun moves? Really? This one was slightly furry but is now cleaning up again. A tough start leads to a section of large holds above. The last section, just past the last bolt, holds a slopey crux. Once you pull through, you can stand up on the ledge and ponder what you intend to do...

 You can clip the anchors for Crankenstein and lower down (this is not the original route, let's call it Shortline), or you can plug some cams and follow the crack out the roof out left. Once you reach the notch, head on up to the anchor and hope the rope is long enough to get you back to the ground.

Start at crack just right of ledges.  Awkward moves up the crack to ledge with giant block.  Continue up on large holds past horizontals and a bolt.

Months of top-roping led to the F.A of this crystal pinching marathon. Run it out from ground level, or start at the far right end of wheaties ledge. Climb the steep bleached face past five bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Essentially a bolted boulder problem. Climb the weird, short corner and exit onto the crystal slab. Balance and crimp strength are your friends. Top it out.

Looking up from the Wheaties ledge.

 Eagle Bluff is Clifton's most popular and well-known climbing area with over 130 sport and trad routes as well as a collection of boulders that hold over five dozen problems. Climbers of all kinds will find enjoyable lines. Trad cracks? Check. Hyper-technical slabs? Check. Overhanging sport climbs? Check. Multipitch? Check. Routes range from 5.easy to 5.12d with a few projects still waiting for an ascent. The boulder problems are mostly in the V0-V3 range, but there are a few unfinished lines and a handful of V5-V6s.

 Access is secured and most of the anchors are brand new thanks to the efforts of the CCA.

 There are now 3 signed parking lots!

North Lot - Park here to have quick access to the Practice Wall and the left end of Eagle Bluff. This is also the best way to access the summit. 10 minutes to the climbing.

Overflow Lot - Located in the middle. The crowds are non-existent, so you may never have to park here. ​​​​ South Lot - Park here to walk into the boulders or to access the middle or right end of Eagle Bluff. Allow 8 minutes to the boulders or 12-15 to the cliffs.

Finishing up Eagle Direct

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Bluff