Tackle the initial steep boulder problem on pinches, pockets, and crimps to gain the high first bolt. Through the mix of jugs, and some thoughtful technical climbing, keep an eye out for all the great rests on your way to the sequency crux so that afterwards, you have something left for the committing big move through the horizontal roof that makes for one of the funnest finishes in all of the Red!

Use a Double Draw or 60cm sling on the last bolt if you want zero rope drag for the anchor clip and the lower off.

Stick Clip Recommended.

Shade in the Afternoon

Perma Dry

Cross Contamination

Plague Doctor

Vitamin C

Free Clinic

Trephination

Hyperbaric Chamber

Last Rites

Magic Bed

Malpractice

L.A. Branch Office

Psychosomatic

Psych Ward

On Bended Knee

ReCooperAte

Aquagenic Urticaria

Foaming at the Mouth

Recovery Room

Porphyria

98.6 Beta Blocker

Sacbrood Virus

Plasma Spill

Typhoid Fever

Pandemic

Wheelchair Access

Typhoid Mary

Temperature Rising

Family History

Triage

Zoonotic

Anaphylaxis

Push Present

Diminished Gluteal Syndrome

Ebola

Halitosis

Endless Numbered Days

Pre-Op

Scoliosis

Phantom Pain

Bipolar

The Sniffles

Platelet Rich Injection

Brachial Plexus

Start with a long move on good holds to reach a long stretch of climbing on pretty big jugs, with a tough move or two thrown in occasionally. Rest anywhere you feel like it before hitting the sequential crux on crimps and slopers right before the roof. Clip the roof draw and rest up on holds that you wish were a little better. Head out the roof on massive jugs and make a move or two on the face to clip the anchors.

This is a very nice route consisting of mostly good holds with some smaller holds going to the anchor.

This route might feel a bit soft if you have good endurance; maybe it's 11d.

Named for the stunning orange lichen that can only be seen while on route. Like falling ill, this route is mild in the beginning, uncomfortable in the thick of it, and recovery comes at last near the chains.

Easy slab with ledges at 10 and 20 feet up, then a shallow hueco at 30'.

Great route. Start just left of the large boulder and head up on good holds, building a pump along the way. Save some juice for the top where some sloping holds might just spit you off.

Start in the small alcove about six feet left of Wheelchair Access. Follow the crack above and angle slightly left, following a series of horizontals to a notch. Climb through the notch to anchors on the slab above.

Shares a start with Diminished Gluteal Syndrome. Start on a jug and head right on some interesting slab moves before reaching a good jug. Head up on mostly all jugs before a tough pop move off of a set of matched crimps. Enjoy large holds to the anchor.

Move up and right on good holds towards a flake while trying not to pump out. A hueco in the upper part of the route can provide some reprieve before an excellent finish sequence.

Start up the short hand crack then step out right and continue up the runout face until meeting back up with the flake.

Climb through the arch and past the bulge where the holds get thinner. Past the third bolt the climb eases up to fun slab.

A few bolts worth of tough climbing off the ground will bring you to a no hands rest on a ledge. Continue with some moderate climbing before reaching the crux at a small roof. Get a shake above and head to the chains.

This route is new as of Fall 2019 and is still pretty dirty / chossy. There are some pretty scary looking flakes on this route; tread lightly.

Start on a flake feature near the right side of the cave. Make a couple tough moves and eventually make it to the slab. Traverse left on easy terrain to a stance beneath the steep climbing. Head through the cave on mostly good holds with a crux in the middle and some slightly smaller holds to keep things interesting.

The steep start is made easier by use of the dihedral.  A rest can be found mid way followed by a short traverse left and an interesting move up top.

A short route near the right end of the crag that heads up a right-facing flake. This route has cleaned up since it was bolted and the movement is nice!

Start on good holds making its way into the small open book on small nubs. Continue up with a hard move into the hueco above that you clip from.

Neverending cruxes and jugs 15' left of the shared start of Last Rites/Diminished Gluteal Syndrome. A low boulder problem involving heel hooking and cranking guards an awesome run of jugs to a heartbreaker move at the top.

Once a bit of a sandy pile this has cleaned up into a great route. Start from the left under ReCooperAte and traverse in. Make moves to gain the ledge above then pull a small roof to huge jugs going all the way to the anchors.

Start with a two hold compression move to get your feet on. After the first bolt find your way through a maze of bad pockets to better holds above. Soon you will come to two horrible crimpers power through these and then an undercling moves to bigger holds leading to the anchors.

Work up to a tiny ledge after the second bolt and traverse a couple feet left, then angle up and left to the anchors.

A very nice bouldery route in between two crag classics, this line takes on the rail where you will encounter a tricky crux. Add in a couple tough moves down low and up top and you get a great route.

Start up on some big holds under a low roof and establish onto the route. Climb up on mostly good holds to a jug before the crux section (some people can get a hand jam here). Press into a large undercling and bust through a tough sequence of edges and crimps to get to another good hold. Enjoy the last bolt or two of easy climbing to the anchor.

Start in the same dihedral as Platelet Rich but continue into the hueco just left of the first two bolts. Follow the meandering crack above the hueco another 40 feet to a tree ledge. Easy, but adventurous and could use some gardening. Seeping during most of spring.

Climb Typhoid Mary, then continue above the ramp over two roofs to the secondary set of chains.

Fun slab with a bulge crux near the anchors

Climb right leaning arete to the first set of anchors. If it's dry, climb to the second set of anchors going at 5.11d

Mostly slab with a bulge.from second to third bolt and easier bulge at fourth bolt.

Really flowy climbing leads to a weird rest near the top. Get over the break and continue flowing to the top

Similar to a lot of the other low 12s at The Infirmary. This route starts on top of a boulder near the left side of the main wall and heads up on pockets and jugs.

Start with some fingers in two pockets and make some bouldery moves. If it's raining, rest assure that wet streaks don't touch the good holds necessary to put this climb in the bag.

Steep bolted dihedral with thin tips liebacking and stemming.

On the right side of the main wall is this steep arete. Cool bouldery start leads to some pumpy climbing with lots of opportunities to recover. It's not over yet...

This is a good endurance climb, similar in style and difficulty to Easy Rider.  Start as for Last Rites, but head straight up at the second bolt (Last Rites breaks to the right)  A couple bolts of moderate vertical climbing put you at the base of the overhang.  From there, sprint up the sustained head wall, aiming for the first big hueco for a sit-down rest.  From here the climb is more broken up with little boulder problems separated by sit-down rests.

This difficulty of this route is somewhat butt-dependent.  It is significantly harder for those with Diminished Gluteal Syndrome, as they will be unable to fully exploit the multiple sit-down rests.

Start on the large boulder and reach up to the start. Head up on good pockets and jugs to a tough move on a blank-ish face under the roof. Reach up and over right and hope you grab the correct holds for the crux. Make a few more moves on big holds to mantel up into a large hueco to clip the chains.

Begins on Push Present but trends right after the first bolt up and into a hueco. A tough boulder problem out of the hueco (with plenty of options for sequences) leads to sustained movement on decent sized holds. Equipped by Andrew Wheatley.

Classic. This route ascends the steep, aesthetic overhanging face. Atypical style route for the Red, especially at the infirmary.

Climb to the top of a ledge to gain the overhang. A couple relatively easy moves lead to a relentless line of edges and slopey holds. Throw to the lip and make a tough heartbreaking mantel to gain the chains. Don't forget to breath.

This climb has some incredibly sharp holds that will probably not hurt so bad after some traffic. If you love super sharp holds that destroys skins and bites back, get on it and tick it off.

Burl your way through the thin crack to start, then find good face holds and some horizontals for gear. Climb past two bolts to the easier upper crack that leads through a notch up to the slabby finish and a great view of Bowmans Fork.

Make long pulls on pretty good holds, working up a pump towards the top of the route where you surpass a bulge.

The first bolt is very high (maybe 20+ feet off the ground). There's a 8" diameter hueco/undercling about 4 feet off the ground. You may be tempted to start this route by going up the dihedral to your left, but I think that may be off route.

The start is thin and stout. It then eases up through good holds for the next 3 or 4 bolts. Then the roof begins. It goes at about a 30 degree angle for maybe 3 or 4 bolts through decent hands. Clipping the chains was troublesome for me as I had a hard time finding good hands.

Start in a cave and climb up the low-angle face into a chimney. Squeeze your way up, placing pro in the mossy crack in the back of the chimney. Stop at the holly tree with slings or continue to the top of the cliff.

Start by stemming and laying back the corner to the top of the boulder. Hop across the void and follow amazingly large holds to the top.

All the stars on this one. Steep with super cool holds and a pronounced crux equals a full value and superb outing. Step off the giant boulder and flow up fantastic holds past a fixed chain draw and to a cable draw at the roof. Puzzle it out and pop up over it to more giant jugs to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Infirmary