This route climbs the sharp NW corner of the rock (closer to the trail). A large tree is within inches of the rock and provides you with a variety of protection possibilites as well as a ladder for downclimb.

If done treeless, the climb is 5.8, if using the tree for initial two moves the route is 5.5 (or T5 as Roach rates it).

NW Corner / Square Rock

Merest Excrescences

Android Power Pack

Crack

Yellow Christ

Flake

This route is located just left of "Crack" near the southeast corner of the Cube.  Follow the burly flake using jams and liebacks to the top.  Like it's brother to the right, this crack is harder than it looks.

This is a highball that starts left of the center of the west face. Traverse right and up, moving through a mono, and then up to the top.

Android Power Pack starts on Yellow Christ but then trends left. While it doesn't look like much from the ground, the moves are fairly sustained and in-your-face all the way to the top of the rock, involving deadpoints for poor sidepulls and a lot of funky body english.

To the best of my knowledge this route has never been led. It would seem to be a very serious (no gear) proposition on the sharp end. Beware the old-school rating -- this is a stout climb!

"Crack" is the obvious splitter located at the southeast corner of the Cube.  This steep crack is way harder than it looks, and it is quite sustained.  Follow the crack through flaring hands to fingers to more hands up to the top.  It is a great pump for a relatively short pitch!

Steep route (about -15 deg) on positive holds the whole way. Start on the huge lieback and dyno    up to a L-facing flake. Move up to the killer jug, then right up the great finger crack. Now make a move out    on the face to the right and finish up and left. Cool route.

Description

Protection

Routes in Square Rock