Hanging Judge escapes left from the route

The Great Escape

. Clip two of the same bolts before heading into a long left reach to jugs and fun, thuggy moves pulling over the lip. This is a nice taste of Justice. It has good rock, good moves, and is a bit longer than

Officer Friendly

, but it is still a short route.

Hanging Judge

Miss Trial

Judgment Day

Speed Trap

The Great Escape

Slammer

Officer Friendly

Countersuit

Criminal Mischief

Max 8

Perjury

Testify

L.A. Law

Finger Prince

Justify

Lawsuit

Judgment Day is the climb on the arete just left of

The Hanging Judge

and

The Great Escape

.

Rarely done, but still packed with a few good moves. A steep and bouldery arete follows a few hard cruxes with good rests in between. A small roof guards the chains.

The bolted line to the left of

Slammer

. Follow a crack for the first 20 feet of the roof. Then pull out in the overhang on good jugs and slopers. Fun route with varied moves.

This is the second line on the roof section of the Wall of Justice, following a layback seam just left of

Officer Friendly

.  Actually, it joins that route at the lip jug and pulls its technical crux.  It is powerful, short and fun.  My fingers still bear the mark of fingerlocks, but when climbing it I was as happy as a clam to have them.

This is one of the test pieces of the Wall of Justice. It climbs through the biggest section of the roof on amazing holds. Unfortunately, getting to these holds requires pulling a tough sequence off underclings to a sloper hold. Once you gain the roof jugs, enjoy twelve feet of huge holds until you try the lip of the roof. Here is the routes crux, and I will let you experience this fun problem for yourself. Just remember, it is only one more hard move to the anchors, go for it!!!

This is the ultra classic of the Wall of Justice. A weird 12a sequence gains the good jugs for the huge roof. Then gain the lip with a tough reachy move on a small hold. Of course the crux of this one is at the end, a crazy mantle move with literally no good hand holds. I highly recommend this route.

This is a fantastic route on jugs up the super-steep roof on the Wall of Justice.  This is the rightmost bolted route on the roof, and it can be spotted easily by the large amounts of chalk on the holds.  Solid moves lead to a dyno at the 3rd bolt, which is followed by the technical crux above the lip.  My only complaint is that, like all of the routes at this cliff, it is a tad on the short side.

Toprope this from the anchors of

Lawsuit

. Climb on the right side of the arete.

Criminal Mischief is quite the challenge to those of us sport climbers who lack great jamming ability.  Start up the easy ledges right of

Great Escape

, and jam your way up to some sloping holds, followed by more sloping /jamming holds, finally to a phenomenal hand jam at the horizontal roof.  This is quite the exciting clip, hanging from the one hand jam and rare to find on a sport climb.  Follow this with a crazy section of fist jamming to pull the final lip.  All in all, a great route, difficult for the grade, and a jamming challenge.  Two stars for some awkward moves, but highly recommended.

The line left of "

Speed Trap

."  It's the thinnest looking line on the wall.

The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt and getting two bad, rounded crimps and tossing about four horizontal feet to a in-cut jug at the lip!!  The finish is easy 11 or 12?.

I bolted this line around the fall of 2000 and worked it for a very long time!!!  I was never strong enough to get set up on the bad crimps and make the biggest hardest toss that Clear Creek has to offer.  Although short, it's difficulty may very well be the hardest in the Canyon if ever completed.  Good luck to all!!  If you send it please feel free to rename it!!!!!! and let me know.  I would love to see it go some day.

Ascend an awkward dihedral to a roof with big holds that should clean up with more ascents. The first three bolts ascend the corner to a fourth above the first lip of the roof. After that, it's the usual game of turn the lip and find the good holds.

Clearly this is not a popular route, but it is not bad by any means.

There is a rap ring and chain anchor up top.

Testify is the second bolted line from the left side of the wall. It lies just to the left of

Finger Prince

. I recommend you clip a long draw first into the double bolt anchor to the right of this route. It will help keep the rope from flossing you if you fall and doesn't add much rope drag.

You're going to either love or hate Tesitfy depending on how you feel about handjamming. I liked the route even though I suck at jamming. Move up the seam and fight your way into and out of the double hand jam slot. A few jug moves later, and you'll be at the best roof crux on the whole wall.

This route in Rolofson's guide refers to "painful fingerlocks" and didn't get much in the way of stars. It's actually a fantastic route and deserves more traffic.

This route is on the right side of the wall, just before the roof starts.  Good holds all the way up, but shorter people may find a couple of the moves a bit reachy.

At the far left end the Wall of Justice is a seriously overhung wall with three crack/seams.  This route tackles the middle line that is far more seam than crack with a complex sequence of tip jams, layaways, and face holds.  At the time I thought it was significantly harder than anything else on the wall so I rated it .13a.  The lack of traffic in the ensuing years relative to the awesome quality of the moves and the stone makes me think it might hold its grade, but I could be delusional.  It only took four days of effort to put it away, but I was running laps on Anarchitect that season and Finger Prince seemed far more technical.  For those who're capable but haven't given it consideration, I say "Check it out and tell us what you think".

Justify is the 4th route from the left side of the wall.  It's just right of

Finger Prince

.

Justify is part jug haul, part power problem.  A stiff long pull low on the route leads to juggy climbing and a rest ledge above.  Take a nap here before pulling over the roof to the anchors.

The rightmost bolted route on the Wall of Justice.  Follow the bolts up to the large roof (it's easier than it looks!), and pull over it on good holds to the anchors.  May be more difficult if you're shorter.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wall of Justice