Slabby climbing at its best in Alabama...vaguely reminiscent of NC slabbing. Good practice.

Wisteria

Slab Warm-Up

Daddy Long Legs

High Horse

Pasture Prime

Dive bar

King Plow

Knife Crack

help your self

Lone Shark

[Redacted]

Whetstone

Steeplechase

Second Cup

Lazy Eight

Whorl

Unnamed off-width

Power Windows

Flapjack

Smashing Pumpkins

Give Em The Left!

Pony Party

Just Right

Thin Flakes

Daydream Nation

Dead Letter Office

Romano's Crack

Grace Under Pressure

From Dixie Cragger's Atlas:    Wander up a face with nice edges and somewhat scant pro. Pass a bulge slightly to the left and wander to the top. 

  Honestly I'm not sure if this is Highway Song 5.5 or Pasture Prime 5.6   Fun long route, pro is there but can be somewhat creative stoppers in shallow grooves.  After passing piton, climb edges and pockets to roof/bulge.  Upper face follows black streak to two bolt anchor. 

  60m rope plus stretch gets you down if you angle right to higher ground

Forward Slant Slab, use as a warm-up to the other problems around the corner.

Fun Warm-Up Crack with a sketchy overhung top out. Definitely bring the pads for this one. 

Another three star line according the DCA.  On the same wall as Steeplechase (12b).  Looks crazy hard; very impressive line.

 A fun finger crack in a corner!  5.9 if you stay in the crack, probably a 5.6 If you use the chimney.  Crux is about Midway up through the bulge where it narrows down to thin fingers. I haven't set up any rap rings yet but I believe it's possible to reach the rap rings of the sport climb on the left of the chimney block or you can proceed up 5.6 pg-13 climbing up another 60 ft to the top. 

(P1, 5.9, 60ft.) Easy slabbing takes you up to the thin crack. Follow the crack and pop up into the left-facing corner. When you reach the first roof you have two options, either start traversing left and up through the stacked roofs, or pull straight out the first roof and go up the face above. We went straight up and it was good times. 

  When you reach the ledge there's a nice spot to build a gear anchor at the back of an overhang and belay the second. 

  If you are smart and decide to rap down after p1, then there may be a yellow sling and quicklink on a tree 20 yards left. If it isn't there I'm sure you'll figure something out. 

  (P2, 5.fugly, 60ft.) If you're stupid like us and decide to do pitch 2, move over about 20 feet left from the belay. There's an obvious sort of bulging weakness through the rock above with a tree growing just to the left of it. Pull through the overhang on big jugs and then start weaseling your way up through dirt and brush and trees both living and deceased. Eventually you'll reach another 20 foot section of cliff. Clamber up this to reach the top and belay from the trees. You'll basically be in someone's backyard at this point, so keep a low profile and don't be a dick. 

  The way we got down was to head climber's right along the faint clifftop trail for about 30 yards or so. There will be an opportunity to scramble down and back climber's left to a lower tree ledge about 15 feet or so down from the clifftop trail. On that ledge there was a big tree that has a nice horizontal section of trunk about 10 feet up. We threw our rope over that and rapped down. Once you get through the vegetation on the ledge, the rest of the way is smooth sailing. 

  With a single 60 meter rope you may BARELY reach the ground. If not, there's a good ledge about 6 feet off the ground where you could stop and pull your rope and then clamber down. A 70 meter rope will make it with room to spare. If you end up rapping from anywhere higher on the cliff than where we went from, you might need 2 ropes to make it.

Even if this was the only outstanding route at this little crag (and it isn't), Knife Crack alone would make a visit to Griffin's worthwhile.  Finger crack climbing at its finest with plentiful protection; the only thing wrong with Knife Crack is that it's too short. 

  Follow the jagged crack, using finger locks and foot jams, to a ledge with anchors below the roof.  The crux is down low; things ease up some with better feet further up the crack.

Starts in the cave to the left then about first bolt height move onto the face.  Hug block keeping left hand on left side and bumping right up various holds on the right.  Could have extremely hard direct start on the face,  Crux at last bolt to anchor.  Short but fun line

Hardest part is getting off the ground. After you get established a few fun moves lead to a big rest in the middle. Then a few crimps to the anchor.

Step off the ground into lieback crack, traverse right under the roof on face holds, plug in a couple pieces of gear and pull the crux over the roof.  Easier climbing trends left and up to large pine overhead or continue angling far left to Power Windows anchors.

Thin face climbing and little opportunity for pro make the start on Whetstone a scary experience.  You'll breathe easier when you make it to the undercling that's the first really good hold. 

  Starting on a blank face, balance your way up to an undercling.  Move up on more positive holds, then right and up via a finger crack, trending right to finish on the ledge.

Follow the right line of bolts to shuts. Move right to arete and then back left to roof. A three-star route according to the DCA, the line certainly appears to be high quality (at least for Griffin Falls).

The second of four short sport lines on the Breakfast Wall, Second Cup is a really fun challenge.  Balancy climbing on crimpers the whole way, it has an inobvious sequence you might not figure out until after you've taken a fall.  NOTE:  According to FA Chris Watford, this route goes at 5.11a, in spite of some confusion in the guidebooks (the old version of the DCA rates it at 5.11a, while the new Cragger shows it at both 5.10a and 5.11a).

Crux is clearly the traverse left at the roof across slippery bird mess. No positive feet on the wall, work the lip and bring that cranium around...reach for cleaner sandstone up and left.

Starts up an easy slab to a big rest at the base of the steep headwall.  Fairly straight forward moves from here lead you to the last bolt (12d/13a to this point)where the crux starts.  The V8/9 crux is from the last bolt to the anchors.

Chimney, chicken wing and knee bar upwards a few body lengths until you find great internal lie backs, reach holds on right face to exit and continue up classic dihedral. At top traverse left to Knife Crack anchors. 

  Searched all editions of Dixie Cragger's Atlas back to the Deep South Climber's Companion and there's no mention of this route, hence the name.  If anyone has info please let me know.

Small holds on a near vertical wall lead to a bulge (crux) and continue up to shuts (not sure you can see them from the ground).  One of the few decent routes at Griffin Falls, if you dig thin, technical climbs be sure to check it out.

Either start on the face to the left of the arete in front of some small trees, or do the direct start from beneath the arete (easier for taller people). Delicate moves on the left side of the arete take you past a second bolt. Then roll onto the arete, up past a third bolt to the same anchors as Over Easy.

A fantastic and aesthethically pleasing climb, Smashing Pumpkins will have you panting as you strain to reach distant crimpers or stand up on thin edges.  Follow the beautiful arete past five bolts to end on anchors shared with Power Windows.

Only 3 moves, but a big final move makes this one fun.

No well-defined crux, just a decent moderate with nice views at the top. Nice warmup or finish to the day. Beware poison ivy in the summer.

Just Right is an excellent face climb, with crimps, thin sidepulls and stemming moves to test your problem-solving skills.  Very satisfying.

Looks easier than it is; the flake near the bottom isn't as positive as it looks.  After you've gained the top of this feature, however, the going gets easier.  Continue up the flake systems to finish on a ledge.

Climb a slabby and techy face to a stance below a roof.  Power out the roof and continue to the top.

Route finishes at the right end of the ledge. Start on the ground a bit to the left, and climb up to a series of slanting ledges. Traverse right on these, and continue up the face to the ledge. A redundant toprope anchor will require long slings and some gear.

Power into a hanging, right angling crack beginning with perfect hands. The crack pinches down to flaring thin hands before opening into wider terrain. Finish up by gardening your way through the sloping moss covered top out into a punishing patch of briars and tree branches. 

Thin crimps and balancy moves take you up the shear vertical face to some slopey holds and the top out.

With less than 30 known routes, Griffin Falls is not what you'd call a major climbing destination.  But if you're camping at nearby Sand Rock anyway and want a little variety, this crag is definitely worth a visit.  The climbing at Griffin's is mostly hard sport, but there are also a number of spicy trad lines, most notably the outstanding Knife Crack (5.9+).

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Location

Protection

Routes in Griffin Falls