All Mixed Up

Old School

Cruisin' for a Bruisin'

International Route of Pancakes

Hoot and Holler

Mantle Peace

Born Again Christian

Call of the Wild

Special K

Roof Crack

Earthsurfer

Pre-emptive Strike

Shock and Awe

Moots Madness

Apotheosis Denied

Bourbon and Bluegrass

Dance of the Druids

Bushwhacked

Beware the Bear

Boltergeist

Great climbing that never seems to quit.  Soft for the grade, Boltergeist makes a terrific choice for a leader's first 10b.

Thin moves at the start make stick clipping a prudent choice.  Climb on good edges and ledges past several bolts and a bulge to a nice rest ledge.  Continue up the face to more purely slabby climbing at the finish.

Pull off the ground on decent hands into the ever widening crack. After a section of fists it flares to off width and squeeze. Continue onward at the top of the vertical wall through a lower angle mossy section to a two bolt anchor.

While the book gives this route a .10d, its probably easier than Pre-emptive Strike. A fun start leads to an interesting upper section.

The roofy start on this route is probably the hardest move (stick clip if you have any doubts).  The climbing eases up considerably after pulling the roof and makes a nice warmup.  Continue up the arete to anchors at the top.

Pull over the roof on large jugs work your way up a balancy move past the hand crack. Finish on good holds.

This very strange route is fun because it's so unique. Climb onto a low protruding ledge and make awkward moves up the arete or slabby face to gain the next ledge. Pull the crux roof and go right of the tree on the ledge. Watch out for giant spiderwebs and an annoying prickly bush and move into the next steep section (crux #2). A final mantle puts you on top of the ledge at the chains.

Climb over a chockstone and head up into the chimney.  There is a tighter chimney section in deep that you can go through or a wider section farther out.

Follow the arching crack as Bourbon and Bluegrass.  After 30 feet, head into one of the few (only?) chimneys in the Red. After 20 feet, step out and move across to the anchors of Dance of the Druids, or move over a short overhang to a second set of anchors higher up.

Climb the pocketed face in the corridor, negotiating a tricky start to a pumpy finish.

Right of IROP. Chimney and roof crack.  Grr...

If you liked "Cruisin' for a Bruisin" then you'll think to yourself when you look at this route, "It can't be that much different... can it?" and you'll start climbing the route and soon find out just how different these routes are. Climb up through two small bulges to a roof section that you'll think is the crux. Pull this roof using the slopey crack and fire up another bulge. At this point you'll be pleasantly or not so pleasantly surprised to find out that the route continues for another 50 feet on small crimps and barely there feet. Enjoy!

Pretty tough start.  Don't go too far right or the climbing gets easier and not as fun.  Pull the the really thin technical start to a technical slab.  Climb through several bolts until you reach the steeper jug pulling section to the anchors.  Fun line.  Bottom felt a little harder than 10c to me but it was we and I had very little skin left on my fingers from two weeks of climbing

Really long; really cool route found at the Hideout in Muir Valley. Follows an obvious crack system to a body-sized hueco about 70 feet up. Place good gear from the rest, then pull out of the hueco on generous jugs and continue on thin and easy, but slightly steep plates to the top. If it feels harder than 5.7, you may be overlooking something. Everything is there. Great holds and good gear. Enjoy!

A tricky/reachy start leads to fun, easy climbing above.

Tricky start to easier climbing for a few bolts. The blunt arete requires good core strength and balance. This route is much easier in cool, dry weather.

Climb the start of Call of the Wild up through the chimney clipping both bolts in the chimney. The pull out of the chimney over the roof and follow the line of bolts on the slightly over hanging face up and left on solid crimps and pockets.

Slabby face right of the arching crack. Big holds to grassy ledge, then up a thin but well-protected slab.

Start under a large roof with a chain hanging down from the second bolt. Pull on huge holds over the roof. The face gets very crimpy past the third bolt before getting very juggy going to the anchors. All of the 5.10 and harder sections are bolted.

Moderate climbing on a pocketed and gently overhanging face. A little soft for the grade. The trick is finding the good handholds amongst thousands of not-so-good pockets. Footholds abound.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Hideout