Head up on steep ground on good pockets past the first two bolts.  Clip the second bolt and pull the crux moves on small sharp pockets, and a tricky clip at the third bolt.  From here the angles lessens and head up on easier ground to the anchors.

Ruffio

Captain Hook

Lunch With a Crocodile

Peter Pan Flies Again

Despite the ugly appearance due to surrounding bird and/or bat excrement, this is a fun route. Start up poor looking rock to a couple of huge jugs to clip the high first bolt and follow small but positive holds up past the second bolt before trending left to the third bolt (crux) and fun moves on the exposed arete up to the fourth bolt. Enjoy fun face moves past one last bolt to finish.

Start on a chossy slab, best to traverse in from the right to clip the first bolt to miss some of the worst rock.  Continue up past the second and third bolt.  Whenever the holds die out utilize the arete passing the fourth bolt.  Catch a nice (slightly awkward rest) clip the 5th bolt out left (bolt was placed here to provide a cleaner fall) and head right to a hueco and traverse left to the next bolt.  Slightly harder if done direct. 

  Continue up easy ground for a few more bolts to the final overhang and anchors.  Leaver biners would be nice here as there isn't much of a stance for cleaning. 

  New route and still has some loose rock.  Should get better as the rock cleans up.

Start up less then perfect rock to a high first bolt.  Continue up past a tricky section to more moderate ground.  The climbing here isn't real difficult but not standard Datil reach and pull moves.  Clip the 4th bolt and traverse left and up past another bolt to the anchors. 

  Might be a little soft for the grade.

Tucked away and off the the main trail, this wall see's little traffic.  The entire wall get's morning shade, and the actual grotto climbs "Captain Hook" and "Peter Pan Flies Again" get nice continual shade in the summer. 

  Climbs from left to right are: 

Lunch With a Crocodile 5.10d 

Peter Pan Flies Again 5.11b 

Captain Hook 5.11a 

Ruffio 5.12a

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Captain Hook's Grotto