A fun party trick. This is a dyno found in the middle of the overhang.Stand start with a pair of high holds about 8-10 inches apart from each other. The left hand is a slopey edge, whereas the right hand is a quartz pocket-like edge. Pull off the ground with difficulty and toss up to a good hold on the lip. Hold the wild swing and climb up and left on the sloping lip of the boulder to the apex before rocking over the top.

Oral Surgery

Bloody Sunday

Misery Left

Filet of Finger

Les Misérables

Nemesis Traverse

Bloody Sunday Sit

The Bone Doctor

Life Saver

Misery Direct

Mindstream

Starts on edges above the lower Bloody Sunday start. Climbs up and right to that weird bowl feature on the overhang. Gaston the edge and crimp the ball. Ninja up your heel. Finish Nemesis. 

The leftmost climb on the Nemesis boulder. The original Bill Patton start goes at V10 and starts on a juggy edge and a weird undercling and goes straight to the hard gaston move.  

  The sit start is more of a laydown start and starts on the right side of the shelf. First move is gaston to the V10's undercling start hold. This goes at soft V11.

2016 update: found new beta, this line is now an eliminate. Do this line without using the lip directly above the start to do the 7 variation.

 I believe this starts on a low jug. Make a powerful move to a right hand undercling and quickly get the left hand undercling. Bump left to another undercling and work your way left to the matching left/right crimps. Figure out a way to get the high jug and top out. 

  Despite the name its worth trying, the holds hurt a bit but the movements are great.

Originally posted as 'Nemesis Direct' 

  Starts directly left of Nemesis under the square jug. Figure the feet out to pull off the ground with an undercling and edge and fire for the square jug. Get the undercling under the jug and work your way into Nemesis and top out as for Nemesis.

Sit start crossed on two positive edges on the horizontal at the base of the arete. Move up to a small crimp pinch on the arete, then continue up on some pinches and meat-wraps. Bust out to a slopey edge on the face, then dyno to the lip before topping out into the shrubbery.

The "Nemesis Traverse" is marked by a hard start, followed by a fun traverse, and then a necky finish. 

  Sit start this problem on the far right side of the boulder/roof directly in front of the lot.   

  Figure out how you are going to master the start, then get into the fun traverse on mostly large hold.   

  As your endurance dwindles, begin to think about how you're going to turn the roof at the far left end.  Mantel, thrutch, and claw your way over the roof at the end, and celebrate.

This is the same as Bloody Sunday except you start on the in-cut jug a foot or two below the normal start.

Sit start on the uneven landing matched on the arete or with a small hold out right. Pull on and move up and right traversing the sloping lip using meathooks, pinches and slopers. Keep climbing above the scary landing and execute a committing topout that is shared with "Bloody Sunday".

Start on a very incut crimp with your right and a low hidden undercling with your left. Pick your feet and pop to the jugs and hold the swing. Finish Nemesis traverse. Very fun. 

From the start jug get the underclings (only the first 2 are necessary), put your foot on the start hold and fire up to the lip with your right hand. Get the other hold to the left on the lip with your left hand and figure out how to top out. Possible to top out without using the roots on top.

This is the most obvious boulder in the Parking Lot area.  The long, overhanging, heavily chalked traverse is the classic Nemesis, while Bloody Sunday, probably the first V10 in Vermont, climbs out the left end of the overhang.

Oral Surgery

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Protection

Routes in The Bone Doctor