Climb a broken intermittant crack system with a lot of dicey lay backs and big moves.  Once past the 5th bolt get a great rest and make easier moves up past one more bolt to the anchors.  Very sequential with a surprise move before the end of the difficult climbing, makes this a difficult onsight.  May be wet after rain.

Bat out of Hell

Limp Caddy

Major Raspberry

She Can Bolt

Devil's Plaything

Chris's Route (name will change)

Pinche Wey

The Ramp

Prickly Proctologist

The Demon

Bananas on Acid

Major Chingadera

ABCs

Juckets & Bugs

Hurt Me Not

Milo Mindblender

Banana Peel

Pimp Daddy

Cactus Practice

Liberace

Bon Bon

Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy

Pre-K

El Guapo

Oui, Trou Brun

Captain Blueberry

First Steps

Pimp Caddy

Limp Traddy

Major Major

Buttress Fly

Get tall off the ground and stand up into a three finger undercling or crush a crimp. Gain the huge undercling higher and clip the second bolt. A dish and a sidepull leads to a cross over to some edges and the third bolt. Move up onto some nice holds then pick your poison, you are going to have to yard on a small three finger razor with your right or left hand as a sidepull or gaston. Going right means more moves, going left is scrunchy. After a jug sidepull and the fourth clip, make a long move up to a sidepull and some balency sidepull moves up to a good hold above the anchor.

Powerful fun moves and totally natural make this worth doin if you’re looking for something new on major wall. After stickclipping the first bolt, make rugged moves into a left hand undercling. Stand hard to a decent right hand, and get a good left hand side pull to make the second clip. Climb 5.11 past on more bolt to the anchors. Grade felt somewhere between 12c and 13a. 

Start up on large hueco's just to the right of the start for the "Demon".  Continue up traversing right past several good hueco's to a long move pulling over the lip.  Over the lip a no hands rest is encountered and several more trivial moves to the mid anchors.  Stop here or continue up the easier slab finish with some cool holds to make it worthwhile. 

  This route also is an easy way to set up a TR or hang draws on the Demon.

Start in the same scoop as for Bananas on Acid.  Keep to the left side of the scoop and stem up to reach the face above.  Clip the third bolt from a good size hueco just before the crux.  Then continue up the enjoyable face above on mostly good holds.

Filling in the obvious blank section between the Demon and Major Raspberry. 

  Amble up the juggy scoops to the third bolt. Get comfortable in the highest scoop for a quick rest. Once you leave the scoop a hard and footwork dependent boulder problem takes you up to the angling arete above and the 4th bolt. From here you could mantle over right and finish at the mid anchor on Major Raspberry or better, continue up the angling arete past another bolt and finish at the Demon anchor.

A dicey little slab move moving right past the first bolt gets things started. Once you pull onto the ramp work your way up to the steep headwall. Follow angling seams and cracks up and left to join the finish of Juckets and Bugs. 

  A great warm up option, not as crux as Juckets but more steep terrain. 

  You can lead this on marginal gear (and I did, as a gear lead it is R). Years ago, apparently Chris and Karl did this by walking around to the top of the slab and climbing just the upper headwall. I returned with Karl after having TR'd the line starting from the ground and bolted it. So, it is a "new" route but not a new route.

Start on the left side of major wall on a small ledge.  The crux comes right of the ground in getting to the first bolt (Stickclip recommended).  There is alot of chalk on various holds, so there are probably many ways of doing the start, but it felt like a V5 or V6 boulder problem to me.  After the boulder start get a good rest and pull the second crux a significantly easier short boulder problem.  Afterwards it is steep but large holds make it easy to the finish.

A fun gear lead with a surprisingly independent line from She Can Bolt and Prickly Proctologist. Certainly worth doing if you're a novice or aspiring trad climber.

Mellow ramp up an arete. Watch the cactus half way up.

A Socorro Classic!  Make powerful sequential moves up a clean overhung wall.  Start with easy moves  up to a huge Hueco and clip the first bolt.  From here get ready to crank.  Angle left passing the second bolt and snag a rest at the large hueco, the only good hold on the route.  Clip the third bolt and angle up and right to the 4th bolt.  Pull the crux moves and it's over.  Take a nap on the ledge and make a few easy moves past the 5th bolt to the anchors.

Scramble up into a scoop on the left side of the prow. Clip the first bolt and make a big move off of a great jug up into some pockets and the second bolt. At the third bolt, cruxy moves on the very blunt arete lead to big move back left to a loose looking flake and the fourth bolt. A couple of gastons lead to a razor blade straight up off of the flake and the shared anchor on the right with Banana Peel. 

The guide books have always said "for a true ascent, avoid the jugs on the right at the 3rd and 4th bolts", I'm not really sure what they are talking about unless they mean, don't climb Banana Peel and clip these bolts? I guess I was pretty close to the flake system of Banana Peel but it faces away from you and you don't really see it.

Start up the left side of major wall on jugs through the first two bolts.  After the second bolt make a tricky move to get established in the scoop.  Clip the third bolt and start on the engaging run-out to the anchors.  The anchors aren't visible until you are almost to them, but they are directly above the third bolt. 

  Some guides mention  the old obscure route "Chingadera" starting in this area and taking a hard right after the second bolt and sharing the finish with "Pinche Verga".

The hardest moves are above the second bolt.

Start on a low-angle left facing dihedral to the first bolt.  Clip the first bolt, taking note that it is in an awful spot for the draw.  Pass the second bolt to a long easy run-out to the closely spaced 3rd and 4th bolt.  Make a big move and head to the anchors.

This route has been recently retroed for your sport climbing pleasure.  The first and fourth bolt are new. 

  After Scrambling into a large Hueco clip the first bolt and pull a small roof.  Head up on moderate terrain passing the second and third bolt to the somewhat mystifying crux.  Negotiate this and latch the large flake jug (at one time you had to place pro behind this).  Clip one more bolt and continue to the anchors on more moderate but thought provoking terrain. 

  This route is normally referred to as 12a/b, but felt easier.  Perhaps the extra notch in difficulty was for the pro needed at the bottom and top of the route.

Easy climbing past the first two bolts (shared with Major Major), then trend left past two more bolts to a rest. The move to the anchors is 5.8. Pulling the bulge over the 4th bolt is the only 5.10 move on the route and is only 5.10 if you stay directly on the bolt line. Staying left of the bolts makes the climb a fun 5.8 with stemming and big holds.

Between Bananas On Acid and Hurt Me Not.  Start next to a dying cactus up an easy ramp, to a high first bolt.  A nut can be placed lower.  Clip the bolt and engage the slippery balancey crux.  Clip another bolt and make one more tricky move before easier ground to the anchors.  Can place pro or run it out.

Start off in the middle of major wall above a large prickly pear cactus.  Pull hard moves off the ground to get established on the face.  Afterwards a cryptic move gains easier ground to a large ledge.  From here one can choose the left bolted path 5.11 or the easier right also bolted path 5.7.  If continuing on the left path follow good holds past two bolts to a hard third clip and the second crux.  Above the two lines converge on the same bolted anchor. 

  More Info at:  vainokodas.com/climbing/new…

Just left of the arete that is "The Ramp (5.7)" on the face. Right of the corner arete formation. Good jugs will lead you all the way to the top.

A fun, sustained, obvious gear-protected route to break up all the bolt clipping at the Major Wall. Stem your way up the crack in the shallow dihedral. The gear can be a bit tricky but the stances are all very relaxed thanks to the good stemming.

Start out to the right and hand traverse up a ramp/crack to the first bolt. The next bit is on great rock but terribly sloppy sidepulls. Eventually work up into a terrible undercling and make a hard move to a decent hold and the fourth bolt. Then a big move onto the upper face. 

  This route looks really cool and like it has holds but then you get on it and they are all terrible, though the rock is quite good.

The crux is low.  Continue upwards on jugs to the anchor.

Climb the crack with a few stems, pull onto the face and join Pre-K for two bolts and the bolted anchor and chains.  The line is an easy TR after climbing Pre-K.

Located to the left of Milo Mindblender. Start on the rock bench and follow the minor ramp on the right side of the grassy/dirty gully. The first bolt is 15' up on the ramp. Follow bolts towards the tan scoop located halfway up the route and traverse left across the scoop towards a bolt. Moving above the scoop is the crux. From there, go straight up towards the anchors left of the dark brown turtle shell flake. 

Look for a black streak with a cactus about half way up the route. This route is composed of two different boulder problems with a lie down and go to sleep rest in between (you can rest as long as you please). The first 3 bolts down low take you through a sequency initial crux, then walk past the cactus, and continue over the overhanging rock through the second crux (hidden hold). Watch your ass on the cactus (i.e. DON'T FALL HERE!) and clip two final bolts to the chains of glory.

There are a couple of harder moves down low.  This climb is the easiest of the Tres Amigos climbs.

hard moves on crimps right of the deck to a crux revolving around a bad sidepull\undercling

This route starts on the obvious left leaning ramp in the middle of the front side of the wall.  Clip the first bolt from the ground and pull the hard start from small but positive pockets.  Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt, as there are no good clipping holds until you are above the second bolt and in groundfall range.  After the second bolt rock up onto a good ledge and rest for the next boulder problem.  Pull the mini-roof on tenous slopers and pockets and a difficult clip then continue up on significantly easier ground to the anchors. 

  This route has fun moves but the hard part is essentially two boulder problems.  It is also recommended to have an attentive belayer and watch your ankles. 

  Timy originally graded this 12a, but I and others I have talked to feel it is harder.  I changed the grade to 12b to reflect the discrepancy.

Climb over a couple of shelves to the first two closely spaced bolts (Shared with Milo Mindblender). Move right past over a bulge that has an obvious pocket to clip from. Climbing from there is easier than it looks, taking you past two more bolts before a 5.8 move to the chains.

Right of Captain blueberry, look for a corner system to the left of the large ramp (the climb, The Ramp) in the middle of a dihedral formation. The climb is to the left of that. Crux is at the bottom and the route gets easier after that.

South facing wall with a series of 40-50 foot routes. Quality of rock tends to be good here and routes range from easy 5.6 to difficult 5.12.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Major Wall