P1: Follow up a slab feature trending slightly right to the short crux headwall. Make a big reach over the lip to good hands. Move up to the tree anchor. 55    5.7  PG   P2: Continue up and a bit right following easy slabs and jugs on enjoyable easy climbing. 70 5.5  

Evening Blues

The Mighty Quinn

Trifecta

Coyote Rain

Coyote Ugly

Gentle Violence

Rona's Roof

Wonderland

Speck In My Eye

Do You Want Your Pant Legs?

Short Stack

The Browdog Indirect

Cleaning up the Scraps

Adventures with Browdog

Gold Lion

Weston's Syrup

The Route Vultures

Blackout

Winter Classic

A worthwhile addition to the far right side of the Wonderland Wall, this route was named for the turkey vulture circling overhead as it was cleaned on rappel.  Longstack's carcass continues to get picked clean... 

  P1:  Amble up the easy but interesting face with good pro where you need it.  Head towards the middle of the thin roof up high, and pull through at the obvious small dike.  A short, quizzical crux leads to a step left and the Rona's Roof anchor. 

  P2:  From the tree anchor, climb up through a series of short clean walls separated by dirt covered ledges trending up and slightly left.  5.3

Start about 10 right of Gold Lion up a couple ledges to a small ramp/corner system (pin). Move right across the ramp and up the face placing gear to a sketchy flake/block with a bolt above it. Clip the bolt and gain a ledge. Use the two bolt anchor of Gold Lion.

P1: Climb up flakes for 10 to a ledge and clip a bolt. Move up the corner/flake placing gear until under the roof. Move slightly left to the weakness and crux of the route. Exciting moves bring you over the roof to the tree anchor above. 80  5.9   P2: Climb straight up off the anchor climbing the clean streak on the right. A fun pitch of jug climbing with a brief slab crux leads to the tree anchor on top. 60   5.6 

Takes a surprisingly easy line directly through the center of the large roof feature on the far right of the cliff. Should become a popular beginner route as it is now thoroughly cleaned, has great protection, and exciting moves on big holds.P1: From the beech tree at the start of Rona's Roof, face climb straight up (fixed pin on left) then passing climbers right of a small tree, then directly up to a stance under the large roof. Place pro and fire over the roof on huge holds to an easy, broken slab. Pine tree belay with fixed rap station. 70', 5.6P2: Continue straight up the broken slab to a shared 2-bolt anchor atop Trifecta. 50', 5.5

A direct start variation to Coyote Rain.  Flake the rope & have your belayer stand next to the tree, where the original start is to Coyote Rain.Begin the climb to the left & below the original start, below a right-facing flake & directly underneath the pine tree way up that is growing underneath a detached triangular block.Climb the lower slabs, then the flake, then a series of ledges.  Clip the Chinos piton on the right, then continue up.  Protect next in a small crack on the right (small pieces might make you feel better), then fire a somewhat thought-provoking crux.  At the pine tree, go right. Do not sling the tree or climb the detached block - its integrity is questionable. Should be fine left alone.Continue right on jugs and up to the Coyote Rain roof. Fire the roof & continue up to the P1 tree anchor.A climb for those of you who want to combine the thrilling roof of Coyote Rain  with classic Longstack ledge-hopping. Can also be toproped after leading Coyote Rain P1. FA J. Browher, Z. Ross,  Jun 2020

Climb up a short unprotected slab to the bolt line. Clip a bolt from the ledge and move up to the right facing arch and make the second clip. (A small cam between bolts can help ease the mind for the second clip). Strenuous moves lead to the third clip and the crux moves on the blank slab. Gain a flake and another bolt and continue up past one more bolt on an easier face with a brief run-out to the bolt anchor on the roof.    A second pitch project pulls the roof to another bolt and joins Gold Lion to finish. 

The start of the climb is located uphill behind a beech tree. Climb a series of flakes placing gear to the crux overlap. Pull the overlap and move right to a tree anchor.

This route is a tribute to Loran Smith. Loran cleaned the route but was unable to climb it before moving west to Colorado. The route was set up by Garlough and Corbett the following day and climbed.  

  Loran spent his early years taking chances and climbing the dirty walls of Longstack on nuts and hexes. His love for the cliff was reignited in 2010 and he added many great lines at Longstack. He will be greatly missed by all the members of the Chinos Mountain Club.  

  This route starts to the left of Gentle Violence.  

  P1: Climb the short unprotected slab to a ledge (bolt). Follow flakes to a overlap (bolt) and pull over on the left edge to a short slab (bolt). Pull the small roof on big holds and continue up right of the pine tree to another small roof (bolt). Fire the crux on thin holds and continue straight up to a tree ledge with a three bolt anchor. 100' 

  P2: Climb straight up off the anchor on easy terrain to the trees on top. 50' 

  P2 Variation: Move right from the anchor and follow a clean streak to the top. 50'

This is a long route that goes straight to the top of the cliff.  It was first climbed as a long single pitch using double ropes.  This route shares the beginning of Do You Want Your Pant Legs?  However, after clipping the first bolt on the big flake, continue straight up the headwall through some finger pockets and a system of cracks directly above.  Continue through a series of moderate slab bulges until you reach the crux, involving a bouldery move over a small but steep overhang.  Use double ropes for a single rappel from the trees, or walk off.

When you walk up the approach stairs to the Right Wall there are huge flakes. The climb is still cleaning up, so watch for loose stuff.   P1: The route starts up the right side of the flakes placing gear to a bolt at a protruding feature. Climb the feature to a small left arching crack that leads you to a ledge with a gear belay under the roof. 80    P2: Climb a short corner and transfer left to the cool arching flake to a bolt. Continue up the features to a tree anchor on top. 70 

Short Stack is a variation to Weston's Syrup. Climb past three bolts on Weston's Syrup to the second roof. Traverse left into a left facing corner and follow the finger crack back right to the anchor on top.

A link-up of the first pitch of Evening Blues with the second pitch of Adventures with Browdog. From the start, climb up the slab and horizontals, then up a dike, past 2 pins.  Step right several feet onto a moderately sized ledge below a clean streak of rock to the right. Belay at the ledge with the tree, or continue up the clean streak, placing gear in horizontals, until you arrive at the top of the cliff. Belay off tree set back from the top. Rappel from the tree anchor atop Evening Blues. This link up avoids a more dirty and less aesthetic first pitch of Adventures with Browdog. 

Move up a low angle corner then step back to the left on a flake on the edge of a roof. Rock up on this foot(crux) the some nice easy fun move to the top. Use care on the bottom of this route because there are a lot of loose flakes.

P1: Start about 30 feet to the right of Evening Blues. Climb up past the short slab to a ledge with two trees on it. Make a strange move to gain an undercling and a piece of gear under it. (This move is kinda hard?). Mantle onto the ledge and belay from the tree. (40) [NOTE: Check COMMENMTS below on rating of this pitch. R Hall, Admin.] 

 P2: Step left on the ledge to gear in a suspect flake. Keep moving up the clean streak of rock past slabs and horizontals for gear. Once on top walk back to a tree in the brush with an anchor on it. (90)  (Rap rings will be installed by Browdog)

Start 10 right of Gentle Violence near the tree.    P1: Climb up to the first bolt and make the crux move lunge to a rail and pocket (bolt). Move up into the left sweeping arch. Pull up the left side to a stance (bolt). Make tricky moves to gain a blind placement (.75 in the left side works good) in a horizontal. Pull onto the ledge and a two bolt anchor under the roof. 55   5.10+   P2: Clip a bolt over the roof (aid was used to pull the roof) and make hard moves to a ledge. Move up a series of headwalls placing gear to a two bolt anchor below the trees. 70  5.8 A0. 

The climb starts just right of the obvious flake system. Climb directly up the slab face past 2 bolts to a short easy corner with marginal gear. Move up to the overlap and clip a bolt. Make nice delicate moves up to a horizontal under the roof and clip a bolt above. Pull the fun roof to a ledge with a bolt anchor.

A natural line that follows flakes and horizontals past a pine tree below the overlap.    P1: Climb up big flakes and horizontals with gear and sling the pine. Pull the overlap to the tree anchor ledge. 80   5.9 PG-13   P2: Climb straight up on a great naturally protected pitch of jugs to the tree anchor on top. 60   5.4 

P1: Start up a series of cleaned ledges 15' right of Mighty Quinn to a flake with gear. Climb past four bolts making interesting moves with good rests. Finish up through some blueberries to a tree anchor. 65' 5.10aP2: Continue straight up from the tree anchor on slabs and short headwalls placing gear when possible. A bolt anchor awaits on top. 70' 5.8 PG(Please see comments about the condition of the tree formerly used to belay below)

The Wonderland Wall consists of everything right of Tree Hugger until the cliff diminishes. The routes of the Wonderland Wall will start at the rock stairs that lead uphill to the right end.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 4. Wonderland Wall