At the right side of the cave @ Deer Leap's Right End is a wildly overhanging crack with a fixed RURP (broken cable) at its bottom. The crack starts incipient and widens to off-hands, overhanging roughly 10-15' in 50 vertical feet. The first section climbs as two stout boulder problems without a rest between, while the wide crack in the second half taps different technique. FA: 5.12 C2- [8/17/2010]. It should go fully free: go get it!

Simple and Independent Minds

Perfect Pint

The Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog)

The Monkey

The Black Wonton

Monkey Direct

Center Crack

Pit and the Pendulum

Standard Route

Off Width

Tonys Tunnel

Celibacy

Follow steep face up past 3 bolts through dirty easier climbing to a 4 bolt, move right up through steeper corner onto slab and traverse left above large roof past 2 more bolts to anchors.

Follow Standard Route for a few moves, trend up and right towards bolt under small overhang (small cams). After clipping bolt, climb featured rock to the left side of overhang, continue up to two bolt anchor. 

From Peckham's guide "Climb about six feet left out onto the finger traverse on The Monkey, head straight up through the overhang on thin quartz holds. Climb up until it is possible to rejoin The Monkey above. There are only two good stopper placements on this route; to miss either of them would increase the 'pucker factor' substantially.

Climb up to the obvious overlap on the left side of the cliff and follow it left, traversing to a crack on its left. Climb the overhang and follow the path of least resistance to the top.

A wild little roof problem.  Short and pumpy.  Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab.  Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground. 

  Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack.  Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof.  Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux).  Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug.  Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.

Start left of the traditional "Monkey" start,  through tricky thin climbing, heading straight for the left of the overlap.

Climb the beautiful finger crack to two possible finishes, left or right, both ending at bolted anchors. Crux is just after the large block about 25' up.

Start just right of the deep "pit" near the middle of the cliff. Climb up an easy slab to crack in the underside of the overlap. Plug in some gear, and make a tricky move around the overlap. Head up on easier, but fun ground. Sort of choose your own adventure above the overlap, since there are several diagonal cracks to choose from.

Climb up on good holds/cracks through a slightly steeper section, following weaknesses to the top.

Sort of a misnomer; not really any off width moves required. A tricky start leads to some easy climbing followed by an airy finish.

Start in the cave system in the middle of the cliff below the "Pit". Put on your head lamp and climb up and out of the cave through a skylight opening. Top out right below Standard Route on a nice ledge.

This cliff is home to about 25-30 climbs; some high quality trad climbs, mostly on the left side, and some mixed climbs (i.e. bolts and gear) of varying quality on the right. The cliff faces south and can be quite windy since it sits on the ridge upon which the long trail runs. Several climbs can be top roped and a 60m rope is sufficient for all the climbs. 

  I've included only the best climbs on the left side for now.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Deer Leap