Something Spooky follows the finger crack way to the left of Officer 270s Hairy Bush. Follow the thin crack up to the WIDE horizontal crack, from there gain good jugs to mantle onto and then finish on the short slab by section. The ledge above the horizontal crack definitely has some bad juju to it. Upon gaining the ledge on the FA all steam I had was lost and some bad vibrations were sensed.

Something Spooky

Centipede Daycare

Papas Fungi

Mamas Toe Jam

Wrecking The Lambo

Blood Pact

Gimme Your Lunch Money ($273)

XENIA

Officer 270s Hairy Bush (shave that shit)

Xenia climbs the jug haul up the northern corner of The Crucible alcove just 20' north of Gimme Your Lunch Money and tops out next to the cedar tree and boulder used for TR anchors. Xenia faces east so it will be cool in the summer nearly all day since the trees create shade all day and the slanted roof overhead creates a slanted chimney feeling. Take larger cams (5-6-7) and some nuts to get some protection or solo to the top on blocky jugs and a bomber foot at every high-step. While working the 5.11s nearby you can run up Xenia to re-rig TR, warm-up, and get newer climbers a unique send. Xenia is hard to photograph but it is fun to climb.***While Xenia is 5.5 if you wear a big backpack going up you will swear it's 5.12 due to the slanted roof on your back***In Greek culture, Xenia refers to Hospitality shared to travelers and a set of customs shared between Hosts & Guests.Xenia consists of two basic rules:The respect from hosts to guests. Hosts must be hospitable to guests and provide them with a bath, food, drink, gifts, and safe escort to their next destination. It is considered rude to ask guests questions, or even to ask who they are, before they have finished the meal provided to them.The respect from guests to hosts. Guests must be courteous to their hosts and not be a threat or burden. Guests are expected to provide stories and news from the outside world. Most importantly, guests are expected to reciprocate if their hosts ever call upon them in their homes.

Centipede Daycare starts with your skirt in the dirt.  Match hands on the lower shelf which allows for all 8 fingers. Lift off and enjoy the overhung jug haul and then manage the mantle. Don’t feel bad if you flop like a seal!

Papas Fungi (VB) sits on the west face of Mommas Toe Jam boulder. Start to the right on the two holds marked in the picture.   Your left shoulder and left foot should be inline with the edge of a shelf that ends as it goes right.Control the start (get low) and then slap for the jug and Topout. Straightforward but begs the climber to find the control position or it feels insecure. Downclimb to the left.

Mamas Toe Jam sits on the south face of a boulder on the middle of a slope south of Upper Mount Scott and north of The Crucible.Start on the obvious dual slanted sidepulls and control the start. A specific technique will unlock this tricky start or you can try to just power your way through (good luck). Work up directly on good crimps! Walk off is a down climb on the west face.

Wrecking The Lambo is a Lowball Sit Start just a few feet west of Mamas Toe Jam and Papas Fungi. It sits under the east face of a large boulder with two overhanging sides.Get down underneath the triangle flake and insert both hands in the crack. Don’t start on the jug of the flake above.Get purchase off cups, hands, paddles or fists and lift off. Heel hook and toe hook your way around this mini lowball roof. Tons of fun and weird beta will happen!

The first time Miles showed Blood Pact to Alex and John they hiked up to The Crucible topout dome after climbing Splitter Splatter Let’s Stem At Er 5.8 to the south at Bobcat’s Atrium. Miles stayed on top to rig up TR and told the guys how to scramble down past “the chair” which faces Blood Pact and corkscrew down to the south face’s base.After they got down Miles yelled “how’s it look?!” unsure if they’d be as similarly inspired by the strange split dual crack that required a stretch across a blank traverse to link the two together. After some silence and a little sadness they weren’t as stoked as he was when he first saw the line, John’s voice rang out from beneath the dark trees and vines below, “IT’S SICK!!! IT’S BEAUTIFUL!”.Sunset was closing in but the trio got a taste of the slightly overhung and barndoory mix of layback and crack beta that crack #1 requires. With scuffed up hands and a dump truck full of stoke they packed up quickly and hauled ass to the car making it out before gettin into trouble.This was the first real project that immediately demanded more than they had to offer - it was a great feeling.——- Start below the left flared and variable crack managing the barn door moves and work your way up until you’re ready to dance or float across the traverse into crack 2. - Ignore the excited hope that the jug you’re looking upward at is actually a jug and make good clean moves to send Blood Pact.

Gimme Your Lunch Money cuts the eastern face of The Crucible from top to bottom and begs to be climbed. A slightly overhung, offset and titled start gets the party started and the crack is just too wide to stack and just too narrow to get your hips inside! Perhaps being awfully huge or tiny will be a benefit!April 28, 2020 was the first time Miles laid eyes on the climb as he hiked straight up Mt Scott from Spicy Meatball boulder in search of new lines, but a huge nest of bees kept him from getting too close to check it out. A few months later he lowered in a removed a number of loose rocks and found the rock to be quite hard with very few choss scales inside the crack. After the initial session it was obvious some crack education would be necessary.Pete Whittaker's Crack Climbing book arrived a few days later and was swiftly stolen by John Lozano.Fast forward a few months of training and sessions on Blood Pact nextdoor, John Lozano wanted to give Gimme Your Lunch Money the first ground-up tries. After a humbling start and dirty go, John sent it clean Dec 4th 2020.Due to the tunnel vision of a possible send, packing up and getting down the mountain GYLM cost the three climbers $273 as they got a ticket at the gate for being on the mountain after dark."I still don't know how I climbed that thing" - John Lozano

Climb a bomber blue hand crack and enter Officer 270s big bush. Work around the bush into the 6-7-8 offwidth and head to the top! For those without big cams or big bros the wide crack is protectable with at least 1 nut!We removed some of the most in the way loose rocks but climber and belayer she you be aware some small rocks still exist in the cracks by the bush!  Fun and adventurous for a 5.7

The Crucible is a just 6-7 minutes downhill of Pirates Landing parking and has a protected hedge of trees around it to provide good shade and a nice wind block while you work the 5.11s Gimme Your Lunch Money and Blood Pact. There’s a jugfest 5.5 just a few steps north called Xenia and open finger crack and offwidth lines just down the crag yet to be done. Multiple highball boulders and lines exist for new problems. Good vibes in the alcove, good views of lake Lawtonka and Elmer Thomas and a mix of very hard lines and easier ones too.Miles found these lines in April of 2020, cleaned them of choss flakes and loose chockstones and gave an initial wake up burn to Gimme. He showed them to Alex Mitchell and John Lozano on October 7th when the first burns of Blood Pact took place and not much was accomplished except a good dose of humility. 6 months and quite a few sessions later both 5.11s got their FFAs in late 2020 - spring 2021.

We’re stoked to finally share these climbs so please go check them out!For TR anchors and rapping in, there is a convenient boulder to sling with 240-480 cm slings and a cedar tree to utilize for either end of a J-Tree style anchor using a static rope. Please do not rap down directly off this tree - a nice soft quad should be used if the tree is used at all. Anchors to Gimme Your Lunch Money and Blood Pact can be built on the boulder alone and simply re-oriented from south to east quickly. 25-35m of static line will allow a completely redundant BFK style anchor. Half of that length can be used for a simpler 2 strand anchor from the boulder alone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Crucible