Start up the blocks under the chimney. Climb a finger crack through roof with some awesome stemming. Above the roof is an ever widening hand crack from a few tight hands up to #4 camalot. Enjoy! The route is epicly cleaner now than it was on the FA.

Chicken Wings

Tri Tips

Milt's Burger

Blood Sausage

Organ Grinder

Lil Smokey

Colossal Chicken

Menudo

Short Loin

Beef Soda

Chorizo

Lonesome Meat

McRib

Miguel's Fish Tacos

Fire Roasted Starfish

Kelley Route #2

The Frig

Lamb Chop

Chicken Fingers

Taco Flavored Kisses

Raining Meat

Chicken Nugget

Crab Cake

Thin Slice

Braised Ribs

Kebab

Dead Meat

Trundle Down Unda'

Con Huevos

Beaster Sunday

Rotten Meat

Shawarma

Climb a thin hands splitter that narrows to tips and make a leftwards crack switch to a finger splitter that quickly narrows to tips.  Switch back to the right splitter and make some strenuous cranks to get into locker fingers(crux).  The splitter then widens to baggy fingers and sustained thumb stacks.

Great rock.

Climb fingers to thin fingers in a flare with good feet.  Continue up tips to sub-tips with fun face climbing to some flared hands before the anchor.  We cleaned a lot of the lichen from this one but it's still a little dirty and there is a little hollow sounding rock.

Short but fun.

A great right-facing offwidth corner.  Begin with baggy #4 camalot crack that quickly widens to # 5's.  Continue up into a funky wide pod with bad feet and pull up into the 6-8" finish and easier climbing.

Physically demanding route that begins with 10 feet of splitter hands off the ground.  The route then passes an offwidth pod and continues up via wide hands and fists into a squeeze chimney/roof.  Pass the squeeze and climb friendly offwidth into the next squeeze/layback.  Pass a section of easy climbing with twin cracks and finish with 25 feet of tight #6 camalots in a flared corner.

Really good rock most of the way and not much technical climbing, just strenuous thuggery.

Great route.

Right-facing OW pillar with a ramp start.  Small roof about half way up that looks like a birds beak.  Good rock.

Fun route that begins with double cracks.  Climb and layback twin cracks up to a large chockstone wedged in the chimney.  Pass the chockstone on the left via hands/wide hands.  Continue up triple cracks until you can sink a thin hand into the left crack and finish with hands and cups with a supplemental finger crack on the right.

Varied jamming and stemming leads to a very large, low angle right-facing corner that goes for days.  Climb lots of hands with occasional OW pods to some varied jamming below the anchor.

Good rock.

A left facing corner with a wide start leads to a sweet tight hand crack, and ends with a mantel on top of a pillar.

Tight Hands in a right facing corner. Per Bloom

Spicy face start protects with a 0.4 Camalot.  Climb up to a crack on the left that can take finger sized gear with not so great rock and lots of lichen.  Make a rightwards crack switch to a thank god hand jam and good pro. The crack quickly widens into #5 and #6 camalots and stays that way for the majority of the climb. Once on top of the pillar, traverse right ~10 ft to the Beaster Sunday chains.

Some hollow sounding rock.

Bring your A game for the 1st 15 ft.

Shallow, obtuse corner that widens from 1" to hands and goes through a roof.

Good rock.

Start in a small left facing corner with finger laybacking.  Continue up with varied straight-in jams and some fun face moves to the anchor.

This route climbs the left side a large cello shaped pillar near the center of the wall.  Begin by scrambling up 15' of class 3 to the base of a splitter.  Climb splitter hands up to a left facing corner and follow varied jamming and lots of rests to a 2 bolt anchor.

Splitter that narrows from 1.5 inch to red C3's with a flared thin hands pod below the chains.  Pretty licheny on the FA but we brushed the hell out of it so it should be better and will improve with more ascents.

Lots of good finger locks with the crux up high where it thins down.

On the prow of the formation before it becomes Dissapointment Cliffs. The terrain approaching the climb is loose and steep. While short, the right facing corner offers excellent laybacking with occasional footholds to ease the grade. The end of the climb features some suspect rock and I would suggest placing a #3.5 just after the ledge and running it out on easy terrain to the chains.

An amazingly consistent splitter but the lichen detracts from the quality. Fingers to a long stretch of off-fingers. A small ledge gives a rest before the off-fingers to fingers upper crack.

Karl's book has this at 120' and a 70m. We had no chance of getting to the ground with a 70. An 80m should work if you go uphill and your belayer climbs up onto a boulder.

Splitter that narrows from tight 1.5" to red C3s.  Sustained burly moves with a tough section of tips on awesome rock.

A thin start into an awkward mantle with not so great pro. Traverse to obvious tips/finger crack. Follow crack up and around a corner, through a little choss and finish off with beautiful fingers.

Climb the 1st 50ft of Menudo and then leave the corner and climb the splitter on the right-facing wall.  The steep splitter quickly widens from hands to 5", jogs right, becomes 6" and finishes with a mantle onto a ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.

Great route with some thuggy OW.

Climb fat fingers and  thin hands up a funky, licheny crack.  This route has the potential to be fun and with more ascents it should clean up.

Some hollow sounding rock.

This is a short and varied climb that is a fun warm up. Climb a flared slot through a roof to a hand crack.

Right-facing OW flake that lends itself to laybacking.  Nice face features keep it mellow.

A short finger splitter in a right facing corner. Get up in this thing jam the meat hook in the first pod place a piece and fire the off fingers/fingers layback to the top yeehaw you meat wagons. This thing would warrant a harder rating, but alas it tis but a shorter route.

Braised Ribs is listed in the guidebook as a 5.12 tips crack, but it's more of an off-finger/finger crack and not quite 5.12. The location in the book is right, but you certainly cannot TR it from Short Loin as Bloom says. The first half is the crux, with off-fingers and fingers to a nice rest. Then some thin hands takes you to the upper chimney. A nice two-bolt anchor with rap rings awaits.

Easy hands in a small left-facing corner leads to an OW pod followed by a bulging splitter that narrows from 2" to tips. Fun move to clip the chains.

Great rock.

Fun varied climbing in a corner leads to steep c4 4's behind a flake. Bolts with new PAS tat with a quicklink.

Two hazards to be aware of:

1. This climb starts on top of a choss pile that sits right above the trail--be careful!

2. Some of the gear is placed behind fractured parts of the crack. Make your own assessment of the risk!

Start with any of the three cracks (right most finger crack is the cleanest) and work up to a ledge before pulling a few ringlocks to a slab, then on into overhung 3s in a corner ending in some fisty offwidth.

Squeeze chimney that tapers down to fingers behind a flake with a mantel finish.

2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft)  Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear.  Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft)  From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole.  Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux).  Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views.  Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.

OW start to chossy rightwards crack switch to irregular OW finish.  Not recommended unless you enjoy dirty thrutching on sharp rock.

Adventure climb that summits the cello shaped pillar in the center of the wall.  Climb splitter hands into soft blocks and twin cracks.  Continue up splitter fists and OW in better rock until the crack narrows to fingers.  Pull up onto the ledge and traverse right 10ft to a large, low angle right-facing OW corner.  Climb OW to a 2 bolt anchor.

Climbs like a desert tower, expect some soft rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1st Meat Wall