Start on the bottom step, move your way up and to the right. Logical end of the route is when you mantle on top of the big wide 'top step' about 25ft up. There is more to climb above this point, just be mindful of the choss and vegetation. A great route for working up your courage to jump off higher and higher points, as each stair is a good jumping point.

 As with any of the routes on this wall, the grade is more difficult if you try to start from the water rather than standing on a kayak/paddleboard/boat.

 There's an alternate start to this route from a crack off to the right of the stairs which makes this route a little more challenging - might even be worthy of its own route if anyone wants to add it. Still a solid warm-up.

The Staircase

Water Tower

Warm Up

Tufa Route

Pistol Grip

Twin Fang Tufa

The King Line

Black Velvet

Big Tufa

This is the easiest climb on the wall. It's one of the rightmost routes with the obvious easy starting ledge. It trends up and left on ledges and a vertical crack. Pull through the cacti at the top and jump from the prow. (check yourself for cactus when you get back to the boat. trust me, even if you think you avoided it you didn't)

A great left hand jug at the start with questionable feet sends you straight into a power endurance sequence trending up and slightly right. Follow the arete like pinch into the two underclings, from there make big moves on not so great edges to a flat jug. From the jug it continues on slopey crimps with tricky footwork. We were only able to get as far as the side pull crack next to the tree about halfway up the cliff. It look like you could either keep going through slopers (straight up and hard!) or trend left onto a good looking ledge. I imagine this climb has been done before, but it wasn't on here. If you know the original FA info feel free to correct me!

Probably the coolest holds/moves of all the routes on this wall. Long moves down low and massive tufas!

This line is almost dead center in the wall. It starts on a hold that literally looks and feels like the handle of a pistol(hence the name). Move to a monopocket, then use crimpers to get yourself within reach of the jug handle. From there, follow a good seam/lay-back to jugs at the ledge, and then get ready for the crux on the headwall. Prepare to have your backside handed to you.

Climb the left facing dihedral up to a no hands rest (maybe 5.8?) then traverse out left to the two tufa features, after making it to the second tufa climb straight up and either drop (FUN) or top out.  

  Traversing out and making it to the first tufa is the crux and one of the most fun moves on the wall, this route is awesome, do it!

Starts in the obvious jug break in the cave. Huge move to a bad hold on the lip leads to desperate jump into a decent jug. After that is is sustained 5.13a climbing to the top. Take the leap off the top, you've earned it.

Starts to the right of the Big Tufa.  Lots of little holds in the dark black rock dihedral. Tops out wherever you run out of holds.

 Rating is approximate!  We never really decided what this climb is rated but it's not extremely challenging.

Big ol' tufa sticking out just to the left of Black Velvet. Start wherever you can and work your way on to this big feature. Maybe move into the crack above it to extend the route? We're still playing with this thing...

 Not to be confused with "Tufa Route" or "Twin Fang Tufa" (this wall has lots of tufas...)

 Grade is approximate, we didn't really decide on what to rate this thing, so feel free to edit it.

Lake Nickajack has a small cliffline standing roughly 50 feet tall suitable for deep water soloing. The water below is more than deep enough (60-80 feet I can't remember exactly)and the routes have clean falls. The rock features really cool tufas on some of the routes and some small roofs on others. There are many potential routes to be climbed and I'm sure a lot of them have been climbed. If anyone knows some more details about routes feel free to share them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lake Nickajack Deep Water Soloing