Sit start with opposing sloper sidepulls and a left kneebar. Move into a left hand undercling and make a powerful move to the obvious Speed Bump rail. Work the heel hooks and pull onto and over the lip to the easy but loose topout.  Best to get to there early as the "speed bump" and small crimps above catch direct sun.

Speed Bump

beer can traverse

MotherTrucker

Blackmail

King Cobra

Traffic Circle

Pudgie pussack

Schwerer Gustov

Lobsterclaw, AKA:Mr. Negative

Gumby Traverse

Gumby Direct

Rudy

Shower Cap

La Delicate

Everybody Wins

The Two Star Arete

Hedgehog (AKA City Slicker)

Penis-Puss

german hatery

Beach Time

Time Bomb

Anal Intruder  10

Start on Lobster Claw and go left.  This thing looks way hard.

lowball, traverse, high dab potential, start at the back and head towards the meadow, traverse jugs and slopers, drop off when holds run out.

Start sitting with an obvious right facing sidepull. The crux is the first move, going from the start to the undercling rail with greased up feet. After the undercling, grab another right facing side pull then an easy top out.

crimps on a sight overhang, big move to a right facing jug

Sit start on the overhanging prow.  Step off to rock behind you once you've established on the vertical rock after the big throw to the jug.

This is the forgotten start to Speed Bump. Start in the large hueco down and right of Speed Bump by pressing yourself into this traffic circle. Hands and feet should be inside the hueco, don't use the low skirt for feet. Puzzle your way into the start of Speed Bump and continue on.

start on far left traverse right on slopey cool holds, or kill all the fun and grab the lip(im guessing the FAist considered the lip off)

Start with low, poor opposing slopers (compression). Go straight up to easier terrain.

 This one is not instructed to sit start so starting crouched is "fair game", unlike Speed Bump.

This problem is in the shade all day.  Once you enter the meadow, hike up and left on slick slabs and over a boulder.  This problem starts in cave down and to the right on huge huecos to a difficult throw to a delicate topout.

Start low traversing right with the flake up to the jug and top out.

Same start as Gumby Traverse. Start low traversing right, but go straight up to top out.

Starts to the left of King Cobra as you are looking at the wall. Start on a good crimp and move right past slopers to a powerful undercling move. From here merge into the slopers and undercling jug of King Cobra. Would get more stars if it was a more independent line.

Just to the right of speed bump, toe hook till you bleed.

starts on left hand chalked crimp (i palmed the wall with right)stand up on good feet long reaches to tiny protrusions

Start on a good left side-pull and trend right through slopers and an undercling to a long move to the top-out jugs.

Start on an enormous left facing jug that sits below the arete. Work your way up the arete using the enormous undercling just above the start. after reaching the top of the arete start heading left for an easy top out. You can make this problem as difficult or as easy as you want since there is a bunch of stuff off on the sides.

Link to videoCopied & pasted from Instagram - @peril_by_misadventure - 01/12/2021:  "I found this about two weeks ago, brushed away the dirt, and pulled some very loose flakes of choss from the holds. Underneath lay solid edges and a great problem. It took me 3 sessions to send it, which confirms the grade IMO."The problem starts as for “perverse cowgirl” and heads directly up the roof."

If you're standing in the cave below King Cobra/Redneck Hole, turn 180 degrees and look at the opposite (east-facing) wall. This problem climbs through chocolate-brown rock near the left edge of that face, about 20 feet from King Cobra. 

  Hard moves getting up into an undercling/rooflet feature off the ground. I remember climbing up the face, making awkward moves into a scoop, and being so pumped the first time through I had to bail left. The second time through I moved right out of the scoop, to top out on long reaches to incuts on the face. 

  Problem named for the graffiti (and diagram) already scratched into the rock when we found it. If it's still there, you can use it to educate yourself about where babies come from. 

start on low good undercling hueco, climb face between two cracks(the left crack is formed by this boulder and 2 star arete boulder)

Start with the arete, traverse left, top out in the scoop.

Start on an obvious low rail and climb directly up on sharp crimps

Mostly shady and sheltered, can get crowded around Lobster Claw and King Cobra.  Many V0-2 problems exist here as well, but are not included for clarity.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The New Meadow