Same start as pink lady, but at the lip start moving right into another finger pocket and continue right along lip on crimps and trailing heel until hard rock over. 20+ moves!

https://vimeo.com/491913740

Orange Guy

The Destruction

Israil

The Spider

High Value Target

The Goose Low (Ugly Duckling)

The Drum

Hollow Flyer

Cheap Thrills

Two Dollar Hooker

Cloaca

Unknown

Sortie de Piscine

Pink Lady

The little bang theory

Whiskey Breath

Safe Word Whiskey

Peculiar Treasure

Rex Arete

The Goose

Boris Sit

Project 31

S'Notrail

Cheap Thrills Direct

Drum Line

Spectro

Airy-rete

Israil Direct

Fin Arete

The Swan

Bull Rider

Boris

Animals

Booka Booka Booka

Sunshine the Werewolf

VRG Slab

Rex Arete SDS

Whiskey Rail

Sit start at the back of the overhang and climb out a series of huecos until you can reach up to a 2 or 3 finger pocket with the right hand. This is followed by a big move to a hard to see edge, and then easier moves to top out.

Sit start left of high value target on nice juggy hueco holds.  Moves straight up to a bad crimp, then leftwards through an undercling and more crimps to the lip, then traverse the lip until you find a nice place to top out.

This line is listed in the guidebook as V7, but the right hand crimp seems to have broken and is now really small.  Now it is quite hard!  Probably very solid V9 or a low end 10, we'll see if consensus trends one way or another.  The movement on this thing is amazing featuring a burly iron cross between two crimps.

Start down and right matched on the sloper.  Move left and up using heal hooks until you reach a right handed crimp. Off the crimp you throw to the rail on the other side, and then work your way up.

Start on a good pocket. Move right on good pockets on good feet then up through crimps. Easy climbing on fantastic rock leads to more difficult movement near the top.

Pretty fun boulder with a gentle overhang, features some fun crimps/sidepulls.

Awkward variation of The Goose that hooks you in with a confounding sit with your left hand on the chalked pinch jug and your right just above on a grainy crimp and won't let you go until you finish the damn thing. Sort out a left heel and a right toe-hook before you enjoy falling on your ass like a sad ugly duckling till you figure out how to generate enough momentum to reach the bottom of the V4 starting hueco.

Start on the big Tufa-Flake. Climb to the crescent-moon pocket. build high foot smears and make a precise dynamic move to the slot. mantle.

Awkward Sit start on arete traverse right under lip

Sit start under the small roof on a good undercling.  Pull up to a good right hand sidepull, cross to crimps and traverse left across the lip and into the hueco.  Easy mantle up on the sloped horn.

Sit start at the left side with hands on both sides of the blunt arete in good pockets. Move straight up on big holds.

Great movement on classic Moe's holds. Start sitting on the Boris sit hueco, do the start of Boris sit to the jug. Then, rather than climbing left into Boris, climb right through a couple of super cool crimps to the super cool jug on Sortie. Flows so well.

Please make sure these crimps are dry before you climb on them - they are likely very sensitive to moisture and will break off if they are pulled on when wet.

Cool boulder behind Pink Lady/Spectro, with a nice landing. Start sitting on nice jugs, and work up the fragile holds on the arete and face to an airy topout. Will hopefully clean up with use rather than disintegrate.

Climb the big crack and mantel to topout. Says v7 on the guidebook but feels more like a V2?

Crux is pulling the lip with somewhat of a mantle at the end. The rail is not too slopey, but can pose some trouble in warmer conditions.

Climb Whiskey Rail to the end of the rail and drop low to connect into Safe Word Whiskey.  Finish on Safe Word Whiskey.

Sit start with 2-3 finger pocket for left hand and right hand on arete.  Work your way up the arete with some big moves on big holds to a cool top out over the bulge.

Sit start in big pockets on the left arete as for Two Dollar Hooker.  Move up to the large dish.  Traverse right through the hueco and across the lip on slopey crimps.  Top out right on the sloping arete as for Cheap Thrills Direct.

Stand start with right hand in (or next to) petrified pocket and left hand on edge. Go up.

Sit start hands in hueco. move through the giant huecos to the right, possible sloper to top out.

Start underneath of Boris on a large pocket. Bump out to the crimps just below the chalky knob where Boris starts and make the crux move to the start of Boris. Finish on Boris.

Listed as route 31 in the St. Goerge guidebook. Maybe it's been done before? Starthold might break soon.

Great movement on good stone. Does not look like much, but it actually climbs really well.

Sit start same as for Cheap Thrills, under the roof on a good undercling.  Move up to the right hand sidepull and cross to crimps.  Continue up on slopey crimps and top out on the sloping arete.

Climb the arete, using the flake for your left hand. See pic. Easy top out. Downclimb the easy face to the right.

Very short simple problem. Sit start on jug, work up the route, then big throw for the lip!

The Crux is either pulling off the sit start, or moving from the loose block up to the arête. There may be some reachy moves up top for shorter folk. I put a lot of work into the landing so it is pretty good now.

This variation of Israil starts below the left rail, and moves straight up.

I did not climb this route, but I supported my wife's send while I worked Boris to the right.

She said:

The first move is the hardest: a very technical crimpy start. As you ascend, the holds get better, but it stays strenuous.

Sit start double gaston in horseshoe shaped-hueco like hold. work towards the back of you. Throw for lip and top out.

Low start to Drunken Knees. Sit start at bottom of boulder and climb into Drunken Knees. Took over 3 minutes from start to finish.

Boris starts matched on a chalky knob about 3-4 feet off the ground. Follow edges and slopers to top out. From my understanding, the boulder to the left is "off." (It's pretty blank anyways.)

Sit start with hands on horizontal crack.  Super awkward first move to 2-finger pocket in the face, then follow vertical crack to arete and easy top out.

The intimidating line on the far left side of the Pink Lady boulder. Works out the left arete on some bad holds and a big move.

Sit start on jug, move left and pull over lip. Top out on arete right of Spectro finish.

Great balancy movement on solid rock around the corner to the left from Israil.

Sit start to rex arete (left of israil).  Start sitting on underclings, move up the arete on some nice small crimps to join the V3 stand start.  Feet at the start are quite sandy but the quality on the rest of it is really good, and the petrified wood hold on the stand is quite cool.

Start matched in the hueco.  Traverse the rail. Big move to the lip. Easy topout.

Description

Location

Routes in South-West End/Pink Lady Area