The Warden is one of the hardest crack problems in Vedauwoo. Scarpelli originally started this at the lip on his bum where his monster fists allowed him to get a nice double fist stack. If you don't have big hands, this start may not work for you. Instead you can start with a little left hand crimp on the right and inside the crack and an alright, right arm chicken wing. In either case, swing your feet up into the crack, and head for the constriction above, following the crack to the tall topout. This is burly. Since the original start is so hand size specific, in order to open this problem up for more people to try and have fun on, I added an extended start, upping the quality of the problem a little in my opinion. This start begins standing at the back of the tunnel at the obvious bomber fist. Use this fist to get up into the chimney, and then cartwheel out to the constriction at the lip, which you have to go under to get around. It's really not any harder than the original start, just a little less arbitrary of a place to start. Both versions share the same crux. This problem has very bizzarre and cool movement, and it is definitely a classic offwidth problem.

The Warden

Life Without Parole

Escape Tunnel

Iron Maiden

Digging Stone

The Yard

The Corridor

This is probably Vedauwoos most classic leavitation problem.  Start at the back of the short roof on two hand jams and kick your feet out over the wide lip.  You will find a helpful crimp along the way, but the real meat of the problem lies in the contorted leavitation needed to work your way up to the fist at the top of the offwidth slot that starts at the lip.  Strange sequence.  After you squirm into the pod above the fist crawl into the cave and then down or drop onto your pad.  This little beast is a lot of people's first leavitation problem.  Classic.

This is another fat crack boulder problem.  It has two versions, one that finishes in The Dungeon and one that finishes out.  Both versions start with hands on the opposite side from where your ending.  In either case start on hands and then work through an offwidth pod in the middle of the roof.  One side finishes on tough flared hands with an easy offwidth topout and the other finishes on tough deep fists/big hands that lead to a more difficult offwidth topout.  Its only detraction is how close to the ground you are when going through the pod.

This is a very cool, overhanging seam/dihedral that you pull on like a rail.  Start on the obvious chalked up undercling under the bulge and finish on the crimp that is the terminus of the seam.  This problem would be spectacular if it continued to the top of the boulder, but as is just drop off when you hit the crimp.  The rock and movement on this problem still desrve three stars IMO.

Digging Stone is a tunnel between two boulders. Start on the east end standing on a small boulder. Traverse west, then top out when possible. The climbing features a flared chimney and flared handjams.

Sit start the fist/hand crack. It turns into offwidth which can be avoided with ample face holds.

The Corridor is a fabulous squeeze chimney traverse through the center of the Dungeon. The rock is smooth and gentle. It is great for learning, warming up, or just having fun.

A climber can escape most of the route by stepping down and walking out; however, at the north end, the chimney constricts and, depending on personal girth, may require either twisting sideways or climbing higher.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Dungeon