Dreamin'

is fine line that pulls through the low roof and then nails you immediately with another roof move. Fun, interesting, and well protected throughout. The route keeps going after the roofs. Good edging.

Dreamin' of Reamin'

Redneck Genocide

Looking For A Legacy

Cambrian Grey

Necrobeastiality

Lacy Doggie Panties

Darkness at Seven

Desperate Land

Bosko Loves Barbed Wire

Raid

Squid Orgy

Suicidal Yet Depraved

Awesome awesome awesome! Without a doubt, one of the best in the canyon.

Both this route and

Necrobeastiality

, are two of the absolute best .11b's in the whole canyon! One thought provoking part. Bring it!

The second pitch (or extension) to

Cambrian Grey

. The name came from the guys at MountainWorks. When we were discussing the possibility of the route, the guys mentioned something about it adding to the legacy of a historic route.

It always seemed strange that

Cambrian Grey

ended so suddenly in the middle of the slab. We peeked over the roof several times and thought, "wow, that looks like fun." The resulting route is a great addition to an already great route.

Look/feel for some small but positive crimps to get past the first overlap. Moderate slabs and small short challenges typify this line.

It is very possible to do the whole thing as one long pitch.

**I changed the rating given all the comments that it was underrated. There used to e a nice flake for your hand that made the initial roof pretty mello. But it may be gone now. Once there is a consensus, we can officially get the rating right.

Grey limestone or grey beards?

Cambrian Grey

climbs up solid, limestone edges to a point below the roofs and it is the second climb you encounter after crossing the stream. A good, well-protected route.

The crux is the gaston move near the top on the noticeably lighter colored rock. Shares the first bolt with

Suicidal Yet Depraved

.

First route you come to after crossing the stream is

Darkness at Seven

. This is a well protected 5.9 on nice limestone and rounds out the crag nicely. For my personal taste, I think having a range of difficulty at a crag opens it up to more climbers and gives more people in a party a chance to climb at the same crag. So, I'll give DAS two stars for what it does for the climbing here. And it was done well.

Surprisingly fun route to the left of

Raid

. I thought this route was a slight bit overrated in the Ruckman guide. But hey, .10c or d? who really knows?

The start is fun on a steep arete section and then you get the typical slab between steep steps common in the middle of Bug Barn. Quite enjoyable and not as stiff as many of the other lines here.

90'. Fun climbing, plent of rest positions. Solid edges.

The crux is getting past the opening roof. Feels harder than it is. Just commit! Really solid. Once, you get past the crux, is really moderate. Don't skip this route.

If you think you are really solid on 5.10 slabs, this is your route. A really thought-provoking move past about the third or fourth bolt (I think). The roof kills most onsite attempts, but there is a really easy rest right below it that you can scan the move from.

A fun, solid limestone route. There are tiny edges, jug sidepulls, hidden jugs, a deep muddy pocket, and one two-finger pocket.

There are two cruxes: The first is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and is pretty balancy until a jug sidepull. The second is the slightly overhung section after clipping the penultimate bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bug Barn Dance Wall