Cool route that follows a series of diagonal cracks/seams up a vertical face. Definitely leadable but R-rated at best; might fall into the headpoint category. Easy to set up a toprope by scrambling up around the left side of the crag.

There's a bit of mystery about this route - the Carville guide says it's bolted and .12a, the Jackson guide says gear and .12a R, the Horniak guide says gear and .12a.  I'd have to agree with the Jackson guide, as there's no evidence of old bolt holes, and the gear is minimal and spaced.

Comfortably Numb

Placid Hallucination

Rorschach Inkblot Test

Straightjacket

Cognitive Hypnosis

Psycho Killer

Schizo

Day Tripper

Fingers to hands in dead-vertical, left-facing corner, with large holds interspersed on the right arête.  There's no obvious crux, but it's fairly sustained.

One of the better 5.9's on the Summit - this thing would have a line at a more popular (read: closer to the road) crag.

The anchors are easily accessed by scrambling up around the left side of the wall and walking out an obvious but very airy ledge.

Crimpy face to a break (optional gear here), followed by continuous laybacking on a slopey, rail-like feature. At the end of the rail, make a long move to a left-hand gaston, match with the right, then left to a small dish.

This route climbs better than it looks and has a serious sting in the tail. The crux starts passing the last bolt and ends clipping the anchors.

Listed as an open project in the Horniak guide, and given the obscurity of the crag and the apparent lack of traffic on the route (read: some grit remains), I'm assuming that I did the FA.

Clip the first two bolts of Rorschach Inkblot Test, then hit the diagonaling crack system, with the first crux passing some small crimps to get into the crack. Traverse left for a couple of bolts then head up the left-leaning seam, with a second crux right before the anchors.

This thing traverses hard left, pretty much mandatory to have someone follow to clean. Also, a bit gritty still.

Climb a splitter finger crack to a left-trending horizontal, then head up the left-leaning layback crack.  This crack was hideously dirty until I gave it a massive scrub - it's still a bit dirty, but it climbs really well and should clean up, if it ever gets any traffic.

I put up a direct start that avoids the finger crack and horizontal, by heading straight up the face below the main layback crack.  IMO, this variation climbs better than the original version and is much cleaner. Gear can be found in a series of pods on the face.

The grade is a guess - the Horniak guide gives it a name, but not a grade.

Hard start right off the ground - the first bolt is somewhat high and is meant to be stick-clipped to protect the opening moves, although the landing is flat.  After the first bolt, cop a rest on the small ledge, then launch up the slightly overhanging headwall on big moves between small sidepulls and edges.  The crux comes matching and moving past a small dish about halfway up, but from the ledge to the anchors is stacked with 5.12 moves.

Nice face climb following an intermittent rail/seam. There's a crux down low (bolts 1-2) passing a small right-hand crimp to a sloper, and a second crux near the end (bolts 4-5) passing another small right-hand crimp.

Follow a right-leaning crack that quickly widens from fingers to fists, with a low crux.  Where the crack dead-ends at another, horizontal crack, head straight up on crimps and sidepulls past 2 bolts, with another crux near the top.

This route is a variation to an old route called "Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test", which heads left following the horizontal crack.  While the lower crack (shared by Day Tripper) is clean and climbs well, the finishing crack of Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test is extremely mossy, and pretty unappealing.  Could be a cool route but would require some serious scrubbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cuckoo's Nest