This is a great route in three sections. Bolts 1 through 3 climb through some techy crimps, with the hardest moves coming just past the first bolt. After a good stance, climb through 3-4 more bolts of steep climbing on mostly good holds. A couple longer reaches are separated by good jugs in the section, which finishes with a somewhat awkward mantle onto a ledge with a good rest stance. The final section has some long, awesome moves, including the best undercling, dynamic move ever!

Deep Throat

Tooth and Nail

El Hondo

Deep Water Horizon

Grungy slab moves leads to cleaner, steeper climbing with plenty of places to recover.  Save some energy for the small edges just below the chains.  Kind of tough to clip the final bolt before the anchors.

Like its neighbor, Deep Water Horizon, Tooth and Nail begins with the harder moves at the start.  You begin by climbing 10 feet or so up to a flat body length roof, grabbing a pad edge undercling you make a very long move out the roof to a decent sloper jug, use this and some tension to pull out the lip.  From here there are a few options for finishing the boulder problem, but all involve getting a hard to see pocket gaston and a high foot to gain better holds.  From here long moves between good holds take you to a decent knee bar rest before the next sustained section.  Surmount this roof with whatever you can find leading to the apex of the arete.  Clip the last bolt and head straight up to the anchor over the lip.  This part is sometimes wet, if so, you can head hard left about 5 feet into dry rock and find decent jugs to take you to the anchor.

Choss-a-neer to the first bolt (stick clip recommended) at a body length roof.  Make a big move left hand to a sloper at the lip of the roof and from here it is a long V6 or so ending at the 3rd bolt.  Big moves, sloping holds and some body english are required to get through this sequence.  From the 3rd bolt it is roughly 12a or b to the chains with another red point crux pulling the final roof at the very top.  I would recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt and leaving the first unclipped as the boulder problem moves through the 2nd bolt and a fall from the last hard move would leave you most likely swinging into your belayer.

AM shade/PM sun. Gorgeous section of cliff containing two of Deep Creek's best 5.12's, El Hondo 12d and Deep Throat 12c.

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Protection

Routes in The Deep End