This is a sustained route up beautiful features; Four stacked pitches.

Gear tiny to #3 Camalot. Slings. A single set of small offset cams is helpful.

P1:  10a*** Gear to #3 Camalot. 1 bolt. Slings.

Wander up face directly below the third right facing corner, just right of the tiny lone pine. Climb the right facing corner towards the roof. After the single bolt, traverse right under the roof, then continue up and right  to the anchors. Manage rope drag. 40m.

Note: There was an old stopper low in the corner that appeared to be bail gear.

P2: 10a*** Gear to #2 Camalot.

From the anchor, move straight up past overlaps to a scraggly bush and the roof. Make the improbable gear protected moves directly through the roof and up to the shared anchor with Dentugripped. 25m.

P3: 11a *** Gear to #2 Camalot. 4 bolts.

From the midway ledge, head up the thin slab (11a) protected by three bolts. Trend left up the discontinuous seams, then step back right.  A single bolt protects the exciting lie back moves (10b) high on the pitch. Belay at the anchors at the base of the beautiful right facing corner that forms the left side of The Attic. 30m.

P4: 10a ***Gear to #3 Camalot.

Jam, lie back and stem up the striking right facing corner. Move past the bulge, then head up and left to a two bolt anchor. 25m. Lower off.

Note: There is a challenging top rope between the fourth pitches of Tramp Stamp Granny and Boomin’ Granny.

Tramp Stamp Granny

Unknown

Time To Make The Donuts

Boomin' Granny

Equinocturia

I'm 26 and You're 80

Dentugripped

It Depends

Stank on My Hangdown

P1: 10b***

Gear to #1 Camalot. 5 bolts.

This is the second of the right facing corners moving left to right. It looks like the profile of Old Man Withers. Fun mixed climbing. Two bolt anchor. 30m

P2:8**

Gear to #1 Camalot.

From the anchor, head straight up over easy ground. Make the steep, committing, but well featured moves over the roof (5.8). Paddle up the slab to the two bolt anchor on the left side of the midway ledge. 25m

P3. 8**

Gear to #3 Camalot.

From the anchor, head up and right up a thin seam, then move up and right up the wider crack. Belay at the anchor at the base of the beautiful right facing corner. This corner is the fourth pitch of Tramp Stamp Granny.

A few meters uphill of the series of right facing corners, there is a long and obvious left facing corner. Climb the corner, passing a single bolt at the top of the pitch to a two bolt anchor on the midway ledge. 55m.

This is the fastest and easiest way up to the midway ledge.

P1: 8*

Gear to #3 Camalot

From a small ledge low in the gully, move up grooves. At the first big ledge (just right of the small solo pine tree), trend right. Gear anchor. 40m

P2: 9**

Gear to #3 Camalot

Move up discontinuous cracks into large, crescent shaped right facing corner. Move up the corner. As the corner ends, move left up the slab just left of a roof. Gear anchor. 35m.

P3. 10a/b *** Gear tiny to #3 Camalot.

Step right into discontinuous crack systems that trends up and right. Continue up to a bolted anchor. 35m.

P4: 9** Gear. 1 or 2 bolts, depending on how you finish the pitch.

From the far right anchors that form the right side of The Attic, go up small left facing corner, pass single bolt, and continue up beautiful twin cracks. At the ridge, move up and left to a bolted anchor. There are numerous variations to this pitch, but all end at the same anchor. Lower off. 30m.

This may become a three star route with some cleaning. Pitch 3 is excellent.

Pitches two and four are awesome!

Gear: Micro to #3 Camalot. Bring a set of small offset cams. Slings.

This starts ~50m up the gully from a nice ledge at the base of a left facing corner.

P1: 5.9 *

Gear to #2 Camalot.

From the ledge, head up a left facing corner, then trend up an left on easier ground to a two bolt anchor below the right facing feature. This is an approach pitch to get into the goods. 30m

P2: 10b ****

Gear. Tiny to #2 Camalot. 3 bolts.

Climb the thin seam right off the anchor up to the obtuse right facing corner. Continue up the corner, passing three bolts along the way. Excellent pitch! 35m

P3: 10a **

Gear. 2 bolts.

From the anchor, head straight up to the midway ledge. A single bolt protects the face moves off the ledge. Step left into a right leaning crack that passes a second bolt. Move up to a two bolt anchor. 35m

P4:10d ****

Gear micro to #2 Camalot. Bring offset cams. 2 bolts.

Climb the twin cracks directly above the anchor. The second bolt protects the crux. Super fun! 25m. Lower off.

P1: 9*

Gear to #3 Camalot

Start as for Boomin” Granny. Climb the left facing corner. Continue straight up to the two bolt anchor just up and left of the small pine tree. 35m.

P2: 11a/b****

Gear to #1 Camalot.

Bring a set of small offset cams.

5 Bolts.

From the anchor, climb the gear protected crack (10a) up and left to the bolts. Bolts protect the bouldery slab moves (11a). Continue up to the two bolt anchor. Sustained climbing. 35m.

This pitch is immediately right of Stank on My Hangdown. From the Boomin’ Granny/ middle anchors, step right 3m and climb the hidden finger crack to top of the pedestal. Continue straight up past the right bolt line to the wide bolt protected finish. 25m. Lower off.

Gear tiny to #3 Camalot. 7 bolts. Slings. Manage rope drag.

This is a monster 65m pitch that climbs directly below and thru the right side of the large roof at the big black blob. It is located between the first pitches of Tramp Stamp Granny and Boomin’ Granny. From the gully, climb up and right on easy 3rd/4th class terrain towards a short left facing corner. As you lieback and jam up the corner, the adventure begins and doesn’t let up until after the roof. The slab below the roof is the crux, and the steep bolt protected moves thru the roof will have your attention. After the roof, move up to the shared anchor with the top of pitch two of Tramp Stamp Granny. 65m.

Step right off the middle anchors into a left facing corner. Exit the corner and continue up fun bolt protected face. This pitch has two distinct cruxes, both are bolt protected. Lower off. 25m.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Granny Slab