This is the leftmost route on the crag.  Start just right of a little pine tree below a roof with a left-trending hand crack. Climb cracks and face to the roof, work up the hand crack to the left, and continue to the top.

This route is basically a one move wonder. The only section of the route that resembles a 5.8 is when you have to go over the several foot, slightly overhanging crack, but this move felt more like 5.7 to me. The rest is a walk in the park.

Jam It

Fistula

Ho Hum

Mons

Jazz on the Mezzanine

The Steak Porch

Hell in a Bucket

Idle Hands

Suite 11

Jam It (Variation)

This is a nice wide crack on a moderate pitch.

This climb is well featured and fun.  Climb a slab to a small ledge with a large tree.  Then head up the right-facing dihedral to its top.  Step left and follow another crack to the top.

Climb the 3rd major crack from the left, on the main face. Jam through a small bulge, and continue straight up. It's a great beginner climb, and a good beginner trad lead as well.

Jazz is the first route that starts around the corner to the right of

Qs

. Stick clip the first bolt. Layaways, face holds, and finger jams take you past the first bolt (crux) and to a strenuous second clip. Make a big, somewhat awkward, move left to the corner. Then climb up to the third bolt and the easier climbing that takes you to the anchor.

Walk a safe but slightly exposing trail down and right around the edge of the main wall and spy the bolt line running up the right side of an airy face. There are chalk lines going up and left of the bolt, but the route line follows the bolts slightly on the right side. The gentle overhang and small but positive holds make this route a lot of fun.

Fine dining in Boulder was hard to find in the late '80s, and Frank Day, the legendary owner of the Boulderado Hotel, was determined to fix that. He recruited a talented young chef from the hills above Boulder named Dave Query, installed him on the Mezzanine level of the hotel, and named their new restaurant The Steak Porch.

Query was such a hit that Frank renamed the restaurant Q's and moved him to the main dining room of the Boulderado, where Q's remained the best restaurant in Boulder for twenty years. Dave Query went on to lead Boulder's culinary world with Jax, Centro, and Post Brewing Co. all contributing to the great success of his restaurant group The Big Red F.

While The Steak Porch has been toproped by many over the years, it has never appeared as an independent climb in a Boulder Canyon guidebook or on MountainProject.  With the support of two AMGA Guides, Matt Lipscomb and David Wolf, I led it from the ground up, all gear.

Also lying to the right of Qs (around the corner), this incredibly powerful route ascends a thin seam up the middle of the wall.  A fixed pin can be seen about 1/3 of the way up.

Powerful and sequential layback moves up the thin crack will have your shoulders screaming for mercy!  Sequential and technical and powerful at the same time, it is sure to make you work as hard as you would expect on a 12d crack.  A toprope can easily be set up by leading 'Qs' and walking a few feet to the anchors.

The rightmost route on the far right side of the Boulderado (around the corner to the right of 'Qs').  A 5.10 crack leads up the slightly overhanging wall with a 5.11+ crux coming at the top.  A toprope is easy to set up on this route by leading 'Qs' and walking to the nearby anchors.

This route uses the start of "

Jam It

" but traverses right to a dihedral corner crack above. Follow the face above traversing right to the anchors. It blends the rock qualities of "

Jam It

" and "

Ho Hum

" to form a varied pitch.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Boulderado