Partners

Tension in the Air

New World Order

Psycho Babble

Back in the Saddle

Keeping up with the Jonses

A.N.G.R.R.

Electra

Catch-a-Whiff

B.O.C.M

Fear the Girlie Man

Palace Aids

Flip

Jewel of Denial

Flop

Immaculate Protection

Second String

Circus Boy

Club Trash

Sticky Fingers

Flesh Tone Microphone

Hermaphrodite Paradox

Psycho Soma

Talus Love

Space Needle

Who Do You Do

Long or Good

Dick the Impaler

Phuduhudu

Sir Psycho

Evolutionary Orgasm

Buffalo Spiders

Trouser Snake

Catatonia

M. Rain

Blood on the Bricks

46&2

Escaped to Puberty

Hooty-Hoo

Left Hand Lover

Latex Lover

Negotiate an easy slab to start the route and climb up to the beginning of the roof crack. Climb roof crack, fists to fingers to power stem and hand traverse to the anchor. Surprisingly, the route stays pretty dry.

If you need a boost of the ego after getting beat up at Tyranny head on down and call it 12a. 

 That being said you'll find yourself on a superb pitch, hard opening moves followed by a cruise up the overhung side of the prow. Meet up with the top of Keeping up with the Joneses

Climb the face on the right side of the ledge. 

Shares start with Psycho Soma, go straight up at the first bolt. 

Climb the face on the left side of the ledge. 

This is a rare thin face climb.  Beautiful white and green lichen covered rock.  A great pitch.

A Nother Glenn Ritter Route. Climb the very thin face. 

Haul jugs out of a tiny cave. Shortest line at Obed.

 Don't blow any of the clips.

Looking for a little bit of a TRAD experience while clipping some bolts, then stop here.

 Make your way up some block to a pedastool, clip some bolt-ys , and get ready to introduce yourself to a the tree. (It not as bad as it seem, but just find the good holds, and straddle up it) Do some lie-back crack moves, till you can get to another rest. 

 We found 2 options. - Books says go left out some crimp by the bolt to the Arete. Do some trickery and huck to the lip. (Harder? but more dynamic) - Tradd way has you follow up the diherdal and work back out to the lip on the left. (static and cracky)

 Then choose the right hold to get to the anchors. 

Climb the short layback to a bulge, then head up the clean headwall. 

Shares first two bolts with Dick the Impaler, then breaks right and up. 

Although the bottom part of this route is steep for a 5.9 (perhaps not for the Obed), it involved climbing on friendly jugs, and I felt that the crux of the route was pulling out and over the small roof/dihedral at the top of the route.  The Kelly Brown guidebook shows the route exiting left onto the face well before the roof though.

Real unique crux low (bolt 3) followed by a spectacular section of face climbing

Start right of the gully/crack.  Climb the face. Often dirty. Long runout on easy ground between bolts 1 and 2. 

Well bolted. Starts about 50 feet left of Space Needle

Starts on top of a boulder, steps across to the wall and on up the face. 

AKA Spiders on Heroin. Thin and sustained. A bunch of boulder problems with very little rest in between them. 

Face climbing on a golden wall. Fun moves

Climb on the flake/pinnacle to the top. 

Slab with crux at the first bolt. Shares anchors with immaculate protection. 

Breaks right at the first bolt on Psycho Babble. Move through some thin holds and don't get psyched out.

Start on the first two bolts of tension in the air and move right towards the bolt at the lip. Finish on the anchor of Flip. 

 Pretty fun climbing with a lot of unique heel hooking, mantling, and other trickery to get you to the top!

Want to do some Deadpoints? How about some dynos?    Start in a unsuspecting  green face, Clip the bolt and figure out the puzzle to gain the overlapping break.  Stay to the left of the bush and work you way up.   Did you locate a hold that you think is going to rip right off?   - Now you know you are on the right track.    Find the 2 crimps and launch yourself up for the deadpoint.   - Keep it together and get to the rail-ly jugs.   You'll probably spend a couple minutes trying to pieces together some crimps to the ledge.   Then you will decide they aren't good enough and just huck it for the ledge.   Use dishes and slopers to get to the anchor. 

  Oh and this wall gets washed clean of chalk, so good luck with the adventure.

According to the Guidebook, not worth it.

Book has this one at 10d but felt pretty hard to me. Great face climbing leading to some loooooong moves. 

Long moves from good slots to a flake start you off on a great face climb. 

Fun climb. Either do the boulder start (pretty fun!) or start to the left using the tree. Climb a few easy bolts to a long move coming off the legde. Enjoy the easy, fun climbing to the top after that!

Starts a few feet to the right, outside the cave, and climbs a slightly off vertical face. Hardest moves low. 

Difficult face climbing. Thin moves on some flaky holds leads to a tough, slopey crux. Some holds have broken; 12a/b may have been the grade once upon a time, but it's hard 12b now, if not 12c. Good luck. 

Climb to the left of Flesh Tone Microphone. 

Cool moves with some crazy layback/gaston in a steep part of some corner-looking features. 

Very hard move to get through the roof. A little better now that it has a rebolt but the guidebook description pretty much nails it with zero stars

Climb the arching flake just left of Sir Psycho. 

A great route! A little bit of everything. Has a bit more height than its neighbors with two really fun distinct crux sections. 

This face ends just under the arch on top. 

Same start as Latex Lover, but move left at the sixth bolt. 

For some, the crux of this route could be negotiating the offwidth/slab at the start.  The face holds on this section seemed very polished.  Although it was challenging climbing I felt it detracted a little from the quality of the route.  Other than that, this is a fine route to get on!  In reality, the upper steep section is more likely to thwart most onsight/redpoint attempts if this grade is near one's limit. 

  Past the offwidth/slab is a series of ledges with steep, blocky face climbing between them.  Rest on the last big ledge (a 5.10b variation called "Left Hand Lover" moves left at this point) before the much steeper stuff and fire up through it to one last ledge from which the anchors can be clipped via an awkward reach to the left. 

  Reading the crux hand sequence can be helpful as there is a hold that seemed difficult to match on.  Other than that, expect very large and positive holds!

This is a sunny wall located just to the left of the Tieranny Wall (a.k.a., "Tieranny Roofs").  The routes in this section are not as steep, but there are some quality lines here nonetheless.

Description

Protection

Routes in Middle Obed