P1: Climb the first pitch of "A" stopping about 20 feet short of the belay tree/ledge.    P2: Climb upward into the break in the left wall. You will encounter some thick vegetation. Continue upward past vegetation until you reach a ledge. From there climb left on a ramp until you can go straight up through corners to the top.

Not To B

Absent Without Leave

Rainbow Warrior

Fuse

B Real

"C" Route

A-1 Climb

P1: climb up the right facing corner until you reach a good belay opportunity on a ledge.    P2: Continue up the corner and through a chimney or move left a little to ascend a left-facing corner.

After you clip the first bolt, transfer to the face.  Head up the crimpy face with a nut at the ready (if there's one fixed, DONT TAKE IT) or be prepared for quite a fall.  This climb has great moves on a pretty face and some big but safe fall potential (assuming you don't have the stopper).  Definitely one of the more asthetic climbs at Harpers! 

Direct Start Project:  With the first bolt clipped,  begin on the ledge and fire straight up through a hard boulder problem.

Two pitches. Climbs the middle of the B slab for the first pitch. So, to the right of B. It's a variation on the B route.    P1: From the base of the slab climb upward following the broken crack system and fractures to a good ledge with some trees.    P2: Climb upward and leftward until you merge with the top portion of the B route. Continue upward in the center of the slab at the left facing corner.

This is a crack / chimney splitting a face below the slab where the B routes are found. The ledge above the climb has loose gravel/rocks so where a helmet in case something falls. Difficult to top out given the debris.

P1 - Climb up slab along the left side in a right facing corner until you get to a small grove of questionable trees at a large ledge.   P2- Climb up the slab to a steeper section. Take the small left facing corner in the center of the wall, pass some trees to a rock covered ledge. The climb  up the crack to the top.

Fuse is an excellent first pitch to "Black Powder"  or an exciting start for "C route".  The cannon fire from town during the first ascent was quite appropriate as we lit the fuse and then fired up Black Powder. 

  1. Face climb up the wide 4 inch crack.  Pull over the small overhang on the right side with ample flat edges above.  ** Must see protection comment below **  Move up C ramp for about 25 feet and belay next to the main wall at the start of the thin crack "Black Powder".  For the belay anchor there is a short 3 wide crack in the ramp and a little higher and right is a horizontal pocket for a small finger size cam.  Also down low to the left of the 3" crack in the bush is another  short crack.    2. Finish with "Black Powder" or "C route".

This is the longest climb at Maryland Heights. You could probably add about 50 vertical feet if you continue the left"ish" traverse across the D slab and sign wall but it would be way more traversing than vertical climbing and the rock becomes real poor. 

  1st pitch-Climb the corner (face to the right of corner if there is to much vegetation) up to the second solid ledge you come across. 

  2nd pitch-Start traversing the corner/face to the left (A slab face). Make your way across the face at about a 45 degree upward angle. Until you top out at the far left side of the A slab. The lower portion of the second pitch has some rather large loose rock. A variation is to traverse a pitch straight across the A slab to the left corner and do a 3rd pitch to top out. If you want to do this climb in two pitches, I'd recommend climbing straight up about 30' on the second pitch in the B slab corner/face then make your way left across and up the A slab. This would enable you to avoid most of the large loose rock.

Begin below the right corner of the sign where the approach trail meets the base of the vertical rock. 

  P1 - Climb a left facing vegetated rock until you reach a clearing and a ramp. Head up the ramp to its end. (110 feet)   P2 - Climb straight up to the cave (35 feet) 

  Scramble out right, class five.

P1 Climb the slab through 4th class and easy 5th class moves for 120 feet. The rock is mostly solid, but you will have to look around for protection.  Belay in the corner with solid gear, next to the dead tree.   

  P2 Step up and right through fun bulging moves on solid rock.  Climb up the center of the face and belay at the pine tree at the cliff top. 60 feet.

This area contains the three ramps just left of the train tunnel.  The widest ramp, Ramp A is in the middle with B Ramp on the right and the narrow C Ramp on the Left.  Ramp B is quit popular offering almost 200 of low level climbing.  Finding gear placements can be tricky in a few spots.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in ABC Ramps