Firstly you need to know I really don't care for OW, hence the "beast" pitch of the climb, the "beauty?" You guessed it, awesome hand jamming.

P1.Look for the weird saddle Just right of the route Tenacity. Start by climbing a weird flake sticking out of the ground with hands that gains access to the main wall and left facing corner. Continue with fist, butterflies and chicken wings to the top of the pillar and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10+ 125'

P1. Var. I later climbed the left facing corner that starts on Tenacity and quickly moves right to the obvious left facing corner. Its fun climbing with mostly hands and big hands. I lead it clean but never named it because I really wanted to go back to remove some dangerous debris and leave a plaque. I had our dogs with us and they were stubborn about leaving Michelles side as she belayed. I never made it back there before moving away from Moab. Climb at your own risk and be ready to remove some loose blocks 5.10 125'

P2. Simply climb the beautiful hands corner to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10-  65'

Beast & The Beauty

Rip Curl

Crack Slabbath

Unknown twin crack

Unnamed 5.11

Tomahawk

Beach Break

Kelley Route 12

Beach Buzz

Skinny Dip

Shark Bait

Tenacity

Waikiki

Unknown

Fatty on the Beach

Hollowing

Kelley Route 10

State of Becoming

Kelley Route 8

AKA Beach Surprise

Kelly Route 11

Kelley Route 14

Unnamed 5.10

Hail of a Beach

Acapulco

Incredibly fun #2s splitter into a section of suspect rock protected with a drilled angle and a bolt, then the arching leftward traverse to the anchor. Do it!

Low angle, off fingers the whole way with footholds. Even some no hands ledge rests. I personally think the second pitch is better than the first. Watch for the suspect block on the 2nd pitch. You could do it in 1 pitch. An 80m will let you get down with a single rap.

Name says it all. Mostly slabby big hands with a couple pods to negotiate, great warm up or first lead for those whose mitts fit.

Listed as unknown 5.11 in the Kelley book. It felt more like 10+. It is in the corner between Hail of Beach and Beach Buzz. It starts as twin cracks with stemming then you eventually commit to a thin hands to finger crack in the corner

A little sandy and loose at the top but .5 moves between pods into a flare characterize most of the route

Start in a small corner with a purple camalot layback for a few feet until good jams can be had and a ledge is reached. Negotiate the weird crack and launch into big hands and fists into a slot next to a giant wedged flake, and then to a small section of offwidth before the anchor. Fun and varied. Be careful as the angle of the route tends to push any piece placed into the first section into the crack.

A zig-zagging line which appears to go through a small roof (looks like the crux, but isn't).  Goes through all the sizes from #0.5 to #4 at the top.  More fun than it looks.  The new guidebook suggests #0.4-#2.  The crux is the undulating crack through the middle at #0.75-#1.

A gradually widening, left-leaning crack from off fingers to one move of OW

Shade in early morning, great warmup. Straight in splitter, Have fun! Worthy route to a good wall. Brand new 2 bolt anchor on the right of the crack w/chains.

Short offwidth splitter in "the cove." This is route "B" in the Kelley book.

A few feet of 5s off the ground leads to a long section of 6s before it widens even more. Great offwidth to learn on, but a heady lead without some very big gear.

If leading with a single big bro #4 as your bigger piece, I would recommend three 6s: leave a bomber one mid way up, then walk a pair of tipped 6s up to your personal threshold of terror, which will probably leave at least 12 feet of climbing for your single bro (make it bomber). I'm assuming a single 7 and a pair of 6s would sew it up.

Two pitch mega splitter to the right of State of Becoming. First pitch is 11- fingers to OW. Second pitch is the business and begins with hands but quickly pinches to a looong section of greens and purples. Hold on tight and ringlock to glory!

Hot dang! Straight-in hands to fists classic splitter/ flake to the first anchors at 60'; crumbling, thin, bouldery, and scary past two bolts to the second at 80'. Bottom set of anchors after the splitter (which most will likely do) makes it .10+ or so, heading to the second set puts it in the full-value .11+ range. It appears many holds have broken (or will soon do so) on the early boulder problem of this second "pitch", and it may be far harder than it once was. I for one felt this section to be waaaaay harder than the suggested .11- unless I was truly missing something. Worth doing purely for the splitter.

Historical note: Original route did go to the second set. If you wanna keep it OG, fire it up.

Offwidth corner with tips splitter. You could protect with all small gear, all big gear or both. Suffering in tips and offwidth ends with a bit of false comfort as the offwidth narrows and some positive edges for feet appear on the right. Be careful as this upper section, while easier, is difficult to protect and the footing in the off crack is dirty and feels a little crumbly. A great route for humbling yourself if Tomahawk felt too easy.

A long right-facing corner that captures your attention!

Scramble up a scrappy ledge to the base of the corner. A wide bodylength goes into big hands and fists for a long time, punctuated by a couple no-hands rests. Gas up for the final wide section with a pleasant surprise to hit the chains!

0.5 or 5? Take your pick of the poison purples. My friend climbed mostly the OW. I took the rattly fingers.

A fun left-facing corner that is quite varied.

Start off in sweet twin finger cracks, and work up the corner as it widens out. There is a bolt stud on the left wall that could be slung. Work up the corner as it turns into splitter thin hands and ringlocks for a short time before the anchor.

Way good for the tight hands folks, and closer to .10+ for the big-pawed. Start on top of a crumbly pedestal. There is a piton in the wall to assist with a belay anchor. Pass a couple big-hands slots in the varnished corner into splitter tight hands. The crack will flare out with good hands in the back as the flake/corner changes direction. After a stemmy low angle bit. follow a splitter section of thin hands in a shallow left facing corner to the anchors. Super fun, decently clean, and worth a hit.

Splitter thumbstacks on black varnish with a squiggle, a zag, and a bulge.

Awesome warmup splitter for big hands. Begin with tight hands to a slot with hands in the back. Make a wild big-hands move or two over the small roof and follow big hands to the anchor.

I think this would clean up to be a splitter route, but I would describe the current state as a bit 'Desert AF.' I hope more folks climb it which will make it better. There is some loose and low-quality rock, mostly to the left of the splitter, and (as of spring 2021), no chalk but plenty of sand on the route. Belayer needs a helmet, and best not to stand directly under the climber. This route is an enjoyable journey through face climbing, #3 splitter, pods, and a short handcrack to end the saga! Protects well throughout. It's fun and full-value. Do it!!

It's hard to see the anchors from the ground, but they are right above and to the right of the second pod. Metolius rap bolts. You will use the full 80m - knot the ends!

A right-facing corner with a large slot and good hands above. The back of the slot has good hands too, but it's awkward. #11 in the Kelly Creek Freak book.

Broken splitter, mostly hands, with a block on the top.

Climbs a heck of a lot better than it looks from the ground. Hold on through some crappy rock at the base into a section of #3.  Fists to hands to tightening hands up to a short, leaning section of thumbstacks and thin hands with good feet to the anchor. This last bit climbs a lot like the crux of Jah Man. Have fun!

Thin hands in a corner. Still nice and sharp

A short right facing corner to a traverse right to a splitter finale.

What an amazing line! Ascend an easy left-facing corner, then tackle a roof on fingers with helpful feet. Continue up the incredible finger crack using face features when available. Eventually the finger crack intersects a wide crack on the right--transition to the wide crack as it pinches down 4'' to 0.5''. The final moves before the anchor may require some off width.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Beach