A short straight-forward climb up the west face with plenty of feet and hand holds.  This rock formation is a good place for beginners to play on - it's a short approach from the saddle parking area and the west face of this rock formation can be set up with a couple of top ropes for 5.4-5.5 range climbs.   

Five Jive

French Direction

Out to Lunch

G-String Optional

Unnamed

Velcro Gloves and Rubber Boots

Hollywood Nights

Unknown 5.4 TR

Lonesome Bulldog

Cow Poke

Slow Poke

Emiliosaurous

Texas Duo

Up a short crack to a ledge, then 5 bolts up steep featured face to a 2 bolt anchor with rings. Great fun!

right of out to lunch. same face. easy warmup routes.

A nice wide vertical crack with a few jams and ample face holds.

another short and challenging route near the road

I think that some holds must have broken off this route, because it is a bit stiff between the first and second clip.  I found this route difficult to read, but very fun.  And, the route stays on you; it is a bit pumpy.

3 bolt face to 2 cold shuts.  Moderate climbing with maybe one 5.8 move between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.  Note - originally rated 5.7 in the Karabin guide book, but 5.8 in the foldout topo.

Easy face climb with horizontal cracks and pockets for placements.  There are two hangers at the base of the mushroom top. If you stop here the climbing is under 5.8. If you continue to the top, the climbing is around 5.8 and you must downclimb to the rap anchors on hand jive (five jive?) to then rappel to the ground or walk off to the east.

Nice route.  Good quality rock; this climb has seen enough traffic to clean the route.  One crux about four bolts up; it will be obvious-look up and left for larger crimps at the crux.  This climb stays on you, but rests can be found.

This area includes the routes found in the Lower Devils Canyon area immediately adjacent to the road.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Road Area