This 35-ft route ascends the low-angle slab towards the east (left) end of the Campfire Crags and ends on a ledge. This serves as an approach pitch for Bonfire (5.11b). Not really a slab climb, though, as it has dark patina "plates" with super-positive edges. The crux is negotiating the first 10 feet or so before hitting the plates.

Klingon Pizza

Campfire Girl (Half Route)

Boot Failure

Little Brown Eye

Bonfire

Midweek Crisis

Datura

Presupposition

Omega

Inferno

Prejudicial Viewpoint

Nickel Slots

Campfire Girl (Full Route)

Fat Man's Misery

I Had a Dream

Bright Eyed And Bushy Tailed

Dreaming of grainy friction, a mishmash of bad bolts and a vague wandering line? All that can be had on this seldom climbed route.

Begin by climbing

Omega

, turn the overlap on that route and then wander up generic slab to the top.

Gear belay in a notch behind a giant block and then do an adventurous down-climb back to your pack, or if you've had enough fun move right to rap bolts atop Bonfire to descend.

A route for completists and choss lovers only.

Climb the nicely featured crack which ends about halfway up the face at a two bolt anchor.

Continuing past the anchor increases the difficulty considerably -

Campfire Girl (Full Route)

(5.12a).

A direct start of sorts to Omega or I Had a Dream up a non-descript slab or just another short route for the immediate area.

This is on the far right of the North Face.

Climb an obvious, short crack through a brown hole.

This climb starts off a ledge some 40 feet up and is usually approached via another climb -

Klingon Pizza

(5.6), which can be third classed easily as the crux is down low.

Step onto

a steep, varnished wall with good rock and fun climbing that moves up and slightly right and then cuts back left two-thirds of the way up. From this point the angle lessens and the bolts become more spaced, as exciting friction leads up the last bit to the top.

This is an excellent climb that can get cold in the winter months but is a great place to beat the heat on a warmer day.

A fun, if short, angling finger crack which can be used as a cleaner, more direct start to Omega or enjoyed on it's own.

This starts from the ledge above "Klingon Pizza". Climb up past a bolt and follow a thin, curving crack.

No waiting lines on this route!

Thin cracks/seams lead up the steep face which requires technical movement and the ability to hang out and fiddle in small gear - wires work quite well.

The quality moves, good rock quality and lack of traffic earn this three stars out of five.

This route is a full pitch long.  A fun balance sequence takes you over the crux overhang.  The rest of the climb follows an easy, dirty gully.

Starts off the same ledge as Datura, just left of that route.  Climb the steep, scooped face, finishing up the patina headwall above.

Climb the varnished right-leaning thin crack with less than ideal protection. Harder and more strenuous than it looks.

A loose face and crack leads up to a crux flared chimney.  This is not a classic route!

Climb the nicely featured crack -

Campfire Girl (Half Route)

which ends about halfway up the face passing a two bolt anchor (5.8 to there) and then continue up the thin face above past three bolts to anchors.

Start on the ground at the same spot as Klingon Pizza, but instead of heading up and left as that route, follow a thin seam that slants up and right, over some hollow sounding plates on that lower face.  Additional pro could be placed in the underside of the adjacent parallel slanting overlap just above and left.  This seam ends up on the same halfway ledge as Klingon Pizza, but further across to the right.  Bolted anchor hangers there, with no rap equipment.  This lower half of the route likely done many times as the more favorable approach pitch to access Bonfire.  From the anchor bolts on the midway ledge, reach up and right to continue onward via sidepull features, then through awkward slots and tight squeezes.  Some fun interesting stemming amid all that.  The suffering soon gives way to juggy pulls and easier terrain to top out at the same exit gap as Nickel Slots.

Start up the easy slopey ledges and cracks 20 ft left of Little Brown Eye that lead up to a dark prominent roof.  Pull that fun roof via a nice steep handcrack and continue to the top.

Some loose bits and grainy sections suggest no previous ascent.  But if not the case, happy to update info to reflect.

Description

Protection

Routes in Campfire Crag - North Face