The climbing is relatively sustained on the headwall but well protected with bolts.  Technical climbing with some less than obvious side pulls (think bolted trad route).

Or Dare

The Truth

Direct on the Truth

Crystal Ball

Grease Mechanic

Loser

Unknown 3

Alarm Arm

Red Licorice

Bashart

Power House

Unknown 2

Grijavla Route

Boss Hog

Minas Boreas (Tower of the North)

Unknown "10c"

Liposuction Massacre, Rhonda Savage St. George

Fatty

P1:  go left on slabs, clip a bolt, continue up then left to a bolted belay.   P2:  climb up the prominent right facing dihedral passing two old bolt holes (bolts removed).  Traverse right at the top of the pitch to a bolted anchor.

Climb up on easy ground to the second bolt.  Step off the ledge and face sequential cranking to get established on the hanging face.  Work up the small dihedral past the third bolt and move slightly left to the 4th bolt.  Pull the slight bulge onto a small ledge and figure out the thin face to the anchors.

This obscure route is actually pretty good a sweet compression boulder problem up an arete leads to engaging face climbing above. 

  To start traverse in from a boulder to get established on the face, head up the arete making powerful slaps between rounded sidepulls and underclings, finishing with a deadpoint to a decent hold next to the third bolt.  From here slightly run-out climbing leads to a slot where you can get a finger size piece (I used a .3 & .4 camalot) then engaging face climbing with some slightly hollow holds past two more bolts leads to the anchors.

This climb is hard right off the ground (stickclip recommended) with balancy moves on good sidepulls.  Once you get to the second bolt the crux is over, but a few tricky moves remain.  Get a quick shake then make a big move to a sloper, then a nice handjam for clipping the third bolt. At the horizontal break in the wall get a good rest and traverse right to the shared finish with Bashart. 

  I've heard this climb is soft for the 13a grade, but it felt solid to me.  I broke a hold passing the second bolt making this section slightly more difficult.

Despite being very easy looking (looked like 5.7 / 5.8 from the ground) this climb is surprisingly difficult.   

  Start out making easy moves up into a left facing dihedral, clip the second bolt and make an awkward move left.  From here head up using less than perfect holds and body positioning while heading through another cruxy section to the anchors.  

A very steep right leaning crack line. 

  Make the same bouldery opening moves as Fatty. Once near the first bolt of that route move right and follow the slightly right leaning crack through a difficult bulge and a weird corner. A few jams suplement the face holds. The top of the route is quite a bit easier than the bottom.

Start up and pull the difficult powerful crux to the first bolt.  Relax on the sloper jug and continue up making a few more tricky moves past the second bolt to the third.  Rest on the cool undercling and head to the anchors.  The 4th bolt isn't visible until you're right on it. 

  This one is quite solid at the grade.  The boulder problem start felt more difficult than V2.

A low first bolt somewhat protects a difficult start on bad holds, keep it together and work through slopers to reach the second bolt.  More trickiness past the third bolt leads to a nice rest at the fourth bolt.  There are no really hard moves through this section, just very technical body position dependent moves on bad slopers and pinches. 

  At the fourth bolt undercling left on slightly loose rock, to clip the 5th bolt.  Pull some very powerful moves to get established on the headwall, then commit to the slightly heady finish on thin holds.  Fortunately a nice jug is present for clipping the anchors. 

  There are some loose holds on the upper section in particular the blocks jammed in the small corner to the left of the bolt line.

Boulder up or Stick clip the high first bolt.  From here make cool moves laybacking and underclinging flakes past the second bolt.  I found either the second or third bolt to be far right and difficult to clip.  Make a few more moves past the third bolt and hit a nice rest.  Climb easier ground to the anchors.  Around the last bolt there is alot of small loose rock. 

  This route seems new as there is still alot of loose rock.  Beware as my partner knocked a large (20 lb) chunk off.

Start up easy ground to some cool crystal holds.  Clip the second bolt from the worlds most painful handjam or off of less positive holds higher.  Pull the steep bulge to easier ground clipping the third and fourth bolts.  Pull a few more tricky moves over the final bulge to the anchors.

Very nice appealing route that climbs by squeezing blocks that stick out of the wall. High first bolt and like many of the routes on North Wall the difficulties are broken by a slabby section in the middle. 

  Stick clip the first bolt as it is high. Pinch the right side of the blocks while working your left up seams and pockets, some find the top pocket sharp but if you sidepull it mostly it is not bad. Make a long move up with the right to an edge then out left to a good hold and clip the second. Layback and sqeeze your way up the next rib that juts from the wall till you can chill on the slab. Work up into some underclings and clip. Then tackle the slightly overhung headwall on edges and sidepulls.

The 5.12- grade seems a bit of a sandbag, the crux of this below and turning the roof seemed every bit of V5 at least, in a situation where you will be hitting the wall hard if you blow it. 

  Barn door laybacking at the start, gain some jugs, and clip the 2nd bolt. Then follow the crack to the right which becomes a left facing corner past the third bolt which you have to reach way out right to clip. At the 4th bolt move out right across the face to reach slabby terrain shared with the route to the right. Work up this to a 5th bolt that is way out of line, use a 2 foot runner on this bolt. Very thin slab climbing leads back left to the arete and up to a jug near the arete, potentially bad fall here if you can't clip the 6th before moving up or committing to the arete. Move up and right over the lip to a jug and the 7th bolt, again potentially dangerous fall into the slab below. Mantle over with a left heal and head up and right to the anchor.

A new longest hard route at Socorro. Harder than Sinister Dane or Ride the Lightning but not really sure by how much. Moderate 5.11+ climbing up to a rest then a very technical V9ish crux through the 5th to 7th bolt. Easy section up to a final hard bit from the 9th bolt to over the lip of the roof, might be V6. 

  Stick clip the first bolt or lean across form the left and clip it. Make big moves up past the next 2 bolts on sidepulls and pinches with a pocket thrown in, to gain a sloping shelf with a jug in it. Move up to clip the 4th and get a rest on a hollow sounding undercling. Have a long draw on the 5th bolt or you will not be able to clip it with your feet on the shelf. Move up into an undercling right to clip then move out right to sloping sidepulls and gastons on the rounded arete. Use careful body positioning to worm your way around to a jug out right and clip the 6th. Move back left onto the arete on more sloping holds. Then big moves out left to edges to get over onto the slab and the 7th bolt. From the 7th to the 9th  the climbing is less than vertical and you can rest as much as you'd like. At the 9th you stand up into a sloping sidepull/undercling with the left and reach way out right to a ramp. At the top of the ramp is a good edge to clip the 10th bolt. A huge move gains the arete out right, there is an edge around the corner that is good just below where the roof starts. Surmount the roof with a huge move to some not so good holds then move left to jugs. Mantle over easily and clip the chains.

While this climb is listed as 10c in RC NM it felt quite a bit harder, grade is our best guess (probably 11c or 11d).  I think a lower bolt has been added, as it has a Trango hanger instead of the SMC hangers that are on the other bolts. 

  Start up the thin face making some powerful moves between decent pinches and crimps.  After the third bolt the difficulties ease and enjoy easier slab climbing to the top of the cliff.

Scramble up onto the large blocks between North Wall and Corner block to get started.  Easiest to start scrambling just right of the start for "The Truth).  After getting on top of the blocks it looks like there is a scary run-out, but there is a hidden 2nd bolt you can't see from below.  Boulder up past the first two bolts to some easier lower angle climbing.  Get a nice rest in the corner and continue up either the corner system or arete to the anchors.  A challenging but worthwhile 5.10.

Just a great route. Climbs better than it looks, with lots of unusual moves, and they just keep coming.  The start seemed like 11+ but is probably discounted from the rating since it's right off the deck.

A nice spring / fall crag with a wide variety of routes.  Around 30 routes contain a good variety of trad and sport climbs from 5.7 to 5.13. 

  This area is North facing so primarily shaded making it great for spring / fall and cold in the winter.  May still be hot in the middle of summer. 

  In general the routes here are short and bouldery with hard starts to easier finishes.  Most of the routes are vertical to slightly overhanging.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Wall