Fun route that is worth doing. Slab crux low to fun and steeper pocket pulling up high.

Big Medicine

Heart Full of Ghosts

Out to Pasture

Whoa Nelly

[Redacted]

I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker

Queen of England

County Ten Gunslinger

Pale Face Magic

Wutang

Fat Bottom Girls

Ghost Moon

Medicine Trail Relay

Swallow the Gravy

Wotai

Blood Orange

Booty Sweat

When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy

Queen of hearts

Soul man

Alpen Thunder

Moonshine

Pocket Hero

Medicine Man

Rodeo queen

Throwin' the Houlihan

Pocket Pulling through a high bulge. Fantastic warm up route with obvious Wild Iris style. Instant classic of it's grade.

A long, savage boulder problem involving lots of long pulls on one finger pockets.

Climb the crack feature in the middle of the 5.12 wall to a stance beneath the large roof. The crux seems to revolve around a poor right hand 3-finger undercling and launching to a lone pocket high on the face.

This line makes for a fine warm up, with relatively big holds on steep terrain.  However, the rock is not quite up to par for the area, and the movement is somewhat awkward.

Start on the left, slapping up opposing features to reach big edges over a rooflet.  Hidden pockets lead to the arching flaking, and an awkward lieback on big holds along this flake works up to easier terrain and the anchor.

Start on some thin crimps and edges, go up and traverse left into an undercling.

A boulder problem start leads you left into a steep flake and jugs to the top.

Hard moves off the ground lead to flakes and pockets on low angle terrain. Finish with multiple bulges.

A rad little route on the Erratic. Powerful, very sustained, and enjoyable the whole way on underclings, pockets and a few edges. Doesn't give up 'til the very last move. A little easier than it's neighbor 'Young Girl' and just as good!

Pale Face Magic is a great line of slightly overhanging jug pockets, guarded by a tricky slab start.  The first few slab moves can be avoided by stemming up the chimney on the left, but either way the crux comes linking from the first flake to the second to reach the second bolt.  Although small, fortunately the holds through this section are not sharp.  Above, hero pulls on sinker pockets lead up the ever-steepening wall to the anchor.

This is probably the least desireable of the routes in this area.  Still, its got some fun moves on the upper half.

Stick clip the first bolt, then do a tricky, insecure and reachy boulder problem to gain the slab.  Once on the slab, significantly easier moves climb the steepening wall to the anchor.

Route furthest right on the queen buttress. hard 2-4 clip and repoint finish. really really great stone.

Up the rail on Moonshine for two bolts then move left into Heart Full of Ghosts.

The upper part of this line makes the funky slab moves down low worth it. The crux involves an awkward/tenuous move through a pinch and some stuff that faces the wrong way. Push through the grunge and you'll be rewarded with 5.8 pocket nirvana. Worth the challenge if you're kicking around the area.

Slightly under vertical face broken by two horizontals. Small holds between the horizontals bring the difficulty. Clamber to the top on jugs.

Stellar Wild Iris line.  Climbs up an easy left leaning crack before entering into the business on the face above.  Doesn't let off much from here to the anchors.  Great climbing.

Climb the "blood orange" colored lichen face just left of 'Queen of Hearts'. The bottom half is very crimpy and atypical of Wild Iris. After the crimpy crux, climb on pockets and surpass a fun bulge with an easy roof finish above.

Climb the long face that ends just to the right of the main 5.12 wall roof. End up a bulge into a sort of notch feature at a mega anchor.

Good stone, mostly pretty movement on a fairly steep wall.  Starts with inobvious bouldery crux on the many to choose from -- all face the wrong way small holds to a jug just above the 1st clip.  From here big movement on decent holds leads to a several cruxes up high.  You'll find one of the coolest slopers at Iris before the chains.

Interesting start, leads up seam and then out into pockets . Really fun crux to fun bulge/roof finish. A bit dirty at the anchors .

Big obvious a-frame  roof in mo-town boulders. Long fun jugs to challenging end.

Start the same as Medicine Man in the stemming dihedral, but instead of straying right, continue up the left-facing steep headwall. Here you'll find an exciting power endurance finish on better-than-it-looks rock.

dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

vimeo.com/47251076

vimeo.com/71587755

A fun line but quite sharp, do it when you have fresh tough skin - not a good 3rd day on route!  Climbs easily up the dihedral, gradually easing right onto the arete.  Prepare for the crux when you are fully on the arete and making a long move.  Powerful and possibly dynamic.  Fun despite the pain.

This route is amazing! Roof is challenging.

Note that the 2015 guidebook incorrectly shows this route as going straight up through the roof. This route is "Out to Pasture," 14b.

A houlihan throw is a type of lasso shot.

You can watch classic footage of Todd on this in  Masters of Stone I. Well worth digging out of the archives to watch Todd throw knives and hike Wild Iris testpieces.

Footage of local Chris Marley on a modern send:

vimeo.com/102864117

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Erratic