Sequential and bouldery face climb to steep arete.

Scruffy Puppy

Collect Call

Fatal Vision

Sweet Petunia

Cursing Kirk

Maximum Security AZ-1441

Creepy Karpis

Dope on a Rope

Traumatized Turtle

Fuera de su Fuero

Birdman

Flight Risk

Repeat Offender

Man with a Wooden Leg

Adventurous route up large ledges to a low angled face

Beachy, chossy start, rock improves, 4 hard moves then climbing gets easier. This route is complete, it is an open project. It has not seen an FA. Various people have done all the moves, has not been linked as of time of writing. 2020.11.02

If you like technical face climbing up an arete than you will love this route.  The bottom half climbs more like New River Gorge, than the Red River Gorge.  Start up a thin flake system, traverse right above the first bolt and pull perplexing reachy moves to get established above.  From here the climbing eases but remains perplexing and begins to get steeper.  Finish up a steep jug haul, leaning way left to clip the bolts.

Probably the best climb at Alcatraz.

Traverse right on a dirty start. Similar difficulty as the sport line immediately to the left.

Pinch through an initial bouldery section, rest on the ledge, then continue through pumpy, reachy moves to the top.

Varied climbing, reachy start on a boulder in the drainage, crimp to ledge, then route veers to the right out of an obvious offwidth.

Reach through a long move down low to gain more features. Wander up through mediocre rock to the chains.

Starting up on a small ledge, pull slightly challenging moves to get to the first bolt, stickclip recommended.  From here climb from ledge to ledge with steep challenging climbing between.  Another challenging move awaits to clip the anchors or get above them.

Take off from a stack of stones. Start without stones has been done. The crux at bolt 3 has been passed three very different ways.

Pull a powerful start on underclings and sidepulls to obtain the ledge and a no hands rest.  Continue up on steep enjoyable climbing with a series of small holds towards the anchors.

After stickclipping the first bolt, step off a small boulder and engage with small crimps and a few big moves to some good holds to clip the second bolt.  Move slightly right to a good but dirty crimp and pull a sketchy mantle on dirty holds to get established on the face above and the third bolt.  Make slightly terrifying moves up a small corner system with dirty chossy holds to get to the 4th bolt, and a good ledge.  From here the climbing gets much more enjoyable and less dirty.  Continue up the overhanging face on good holds (11-) and enjoyable sequences.  At the anchors things begin to slab out with a few tricky moves to gain and clip the anchors.

Pull off the ground and get established over an undercut roof. Pace yourself for a marathon of variable climbing on crimps, jugs, pockets, cracks, slab, even a spicy runout. Be sure to take in the gorgeous view of the entire Hell Creek drainage at the chains.

After stickclipping the first bolt, amble rightwards into a large hueco.  Pull the roof on good holds of marginal integrity (crux) to get established on the face above.  Once established more enjoyable climbing with a wide variety of holds on a slightly overhanging face leads to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Alcatraz