The clean-looking spire, a semi-detached yellow-colored feature of the wall, is host to a nice clean clip-up on largely fine rock. So-so right off the ground. It can be easy to shift left and grab a rest the gap, but the line has good continuity and fine gear by staying straight up.

Unknown Spire

Prince Nymph

Curving Corner

Orange Zonker

San Juan Worm

Glow Bug

Wooly Bugger

If you have a rope on the anchors of the

Unknown Spire

, you might check this one out.

Climb up the left side of the pillar on right-trending cracks to a body sized pod. Stem, chimney, and grunt to an interesting move right to the anchors.

A wild, overhanging, wide fingers to bomber fists/hands crack. We elected to set a top rope (2-#3friends, 1-#7 Power Cam), after looking at the bottom half of the crack. It is an inch wide crack made up of two broken quartzite bands on either side of what would be a killer fist crack (this is the crux). The crack will take gear in the 0.5-1.0" range down low, I just wouldn't trust it to hold in a fall. There are two blocks wedged into the open book, above the crack(I trundled two more, that were on top of these two, but alas the two that remain didn't want to go.)Stem past the two chock-stones, on face holds and finish the hand-crack/ramp to the top.

NOTE:

I gave this a 5.11d-12a as that is the limit of my trad. on-sight ability,(took a couple go's on TR to figure out the moves). With traffic this line may go "ground up" as a lot of the broken quartz falls out when you shove your toes into it. Even then the bottom might be a little sketchy, since the crack is so shallow.

Climb the broken base of

Wolly Bugger

/

Orange Zonker

up to the right-facing corner. Climb a thin, wandering flake up to a ledge and finish up the juggy OW in the back corner.

This route shares its start with

Curving Corner

, and branches right at the huge, detached flake. Climb up out and around the left side of the flake, I elected to jam and smear as opposed to pulling out on the bottom of the flake. It feels pretty bomber, but I guess you never know.

Once you gain the top of the flake, head left to an interesting OW for ten feet and the top.

My second favorite line on the wall. Climb on good holds up to the right side of the spire, just left of a pine tree. Stem the corner up to a ledge a brief fist crack. work your way up to the tiny roof and turn it via cracks on either side. Clip the anchors or continue up.

Glow Bug 5.8R.

This route climbs the funky 5.6 choss up to a detached pillar just below the second tier. Pick a line up to the pillar that looks solidish, and Ow/stem/hug the pillar to its top. Step across to the wall and make one good face move to the ledge. Walk back to the  12 foot tall hand crack and climb to the top.

A grungy start leads to an excellent, clean, and bulletproof arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Caddis Cliff