Bagatelle is arguably the best hard route in Wisconsin, and definitely THE hard-man (or woman) route at Devil's Lake. At the time of its first ascent, it was one of the hardest routes in the country.  Since then, Bagatelle has been the standard of difficulty at the Lake, and has been led (Tom Deuchler, first lead) and even soloed (Mike McCarron). Most are overjoyed at even a toprope ascent. 

  Start up the thin face to the left of Cracking Up and Epiphany. With the exception of the far left side (Phlogiston), everything on the face is in-bounds--a testiment to the thin, barely climbable nature of the face, and a rarity at the Lake. Climb up thin sidepulls and sequential footwork to the "Sword Fighter Move".  From there, use a sloper (yes, a sloper!) and finish on the hardest 5.10 moves you will ever do. Now, begin to be overjoyed.

Bagatelle

Epiphany

Full Moon Over Baraboo

October First

The Fakir

Chicken Tonight

The Pretzel

Beginner's Delight

Pseudo Skyline

Tharsis

Immaculate Conception

Drunken Sailor

Sofa-Isticated-Lady

Bloody Mary

Wild Horses

Couch of Pain

Cracking Up

Death and Transfiguration

Waxing Moon

Heroes Fright

Degrade My Sister

Beginners Demise

Chicken Delight

Death & Disfiguration

Fallen Birch

Prime Rib

Phlogiston

Climb thin holds straight up the blank face between "Bagatelle" and "Beginner's Demise" to the "Bagatelle" rest at the large sidepull.  From here, punch it straight up to a mini roof. Surmount this and navigate the crack above, avoiding the holds to the right on "Bagatelle."  Despite the eliminated holds at the end, this is an excellent route.

Climb up crack to the right of Cracking Up. Rest at ledge(30 feet), then straight up through small overhang. Holds seem to disappear near the finish. Hopefully you will have an "Epiphany" as to how to finish the route. If not, you can bail on Cracking Up. Trying to get good gear right at the crux may be a waste of valuable time...

A face climb in the finest Devil's Lake tradition, this route climbs a wide face by way of thin crimps and quirky moves.  

  Locate the wall between Hero's Freight on the left and Chicken Tonight on the right. Start up a lower angle slab until you can get to a stance before the steeper part of the wall. Crank past the steeps and then work up the exposed wall above. All holds on nearby routes are off.

Starts with a few laybacking moves then degenerates quickly. Looks better from farther away.

The crux is the vertical section just past the left crack.

Use any of the starting variations on this wall.  The straightest line goes up the dihedral just left of "ABM".  Negotiate the slabby middle section of the wall - this has little pro, but is easy.  Where the rock bulges above, pull up into the hand crack left of the big flake.  After 10 feet the angle eases, and you finish up as for "Chicken Delight".

Start in the challenging steep (almost overhanging) start of this dihedral.  Once above bulge the angle lessens and the climb becomes easier.  You'll find lots of little wedged chockstones right where you need them to get you up this climb.

This climb provides a legitimate, well-protected lead, (though a fall would be unlikely), and is nicely exposed as well. 

  Start up any of various options left of Beginner's Demise.  In the photo this is left of the rope.  Climb up and angle right towards a large block at the corner of the face, (also visible in the photo).  Continue straight up on some of the best climbing of its grade to the top.

Pitch 1: Start at the top of The Pretzel, then negotiate the stepped ridge to the broad ledge above Cracking Up. (3rd class, 40') 

  Pitch 2: From the ledge above Cracking Up, head slightly west and climb the steepening ridgeline to the top. (5th class, 40')

Climb the crack on the right side of the arete till it runs out, then move left, hug the arete and edges on the right to the top.  It's really about a five move boulder problem to the top from where the crack runs out.

Immaculate Conception is just to the right of The Pretzel (rt 175).  Ascend the face to the right of The Pretzel dihedral, doing all you can to avoid using the dihedral.  This climb is very reachy and may not be friendly to shorter folks.  A very challenging route, strenuous and technical.

Start right of Epiphany and climb up and right to the nose. Stay right of nose and work your way up the broad ridge to the top.

Something to do to beat the sun and wasps. Listed as 10d in the book but either I was totally off-route or the book is wrong.

start high up in pseudo Hawks Nest below a left leaning crack going through a roof.  pull the roof, using jugs & bomber hand jams, then climb the easier wide crack above and behind the crux roof.

Small crux right off the deck. Start on the right side of the overhang, then left to the corner or straight up.

Cracking up is a nice 5.6 to the right of Bagatelle (rt 179).  Ascend the very steep initial section using some stemming.  About 10 feet off the deck try some solid laybacks and inch your way up until holds appear on the right-hand wall.  Climb about 15 feet to another section of laybacks.  Use this technique to get near the top, then finish on easier terrain.

Waxing Moon follows Full Moon Over Baraboo up to the "V"ing overhang.  Instead of following Full Moon Over Baraboo to the left go straight up, using a gastoning left hand up to a crimp in the first finger seams.  Then prepare yourself for some of the most balanced and careful movements you'll ever make, continuing straight up to the top.  If a hold feels decently good on the right or left it's probably off. 

Full Moon Over Baraboo eventually rejoins Waxing Moon (or vice versa).

Start out to the left of Chicken Delight (rt 182). Climb up to the ledge at 35 ft. - there are several variations on the lower wall.  At the left end of the ledge, ascend wall just right of corner. Find the finger crack of Hero's Fright (rt 184) and climb it to near the top. Move back to the right, and finish.

Crack/Face climb right of Prime Rib. Start on a block in the chimney to the right of Prime Rib, gain a finger crack that diagonals left towards prime rib. Just before the crack joins the Prime Rib route, traverse right on a few undercling moves. Move straight up to top after the obvious large undercling(hole). Direct start(12a) is straight up blank face- cool campus-like moves

Around the left corner from Bagatelle, Beginner's Demise ascends the picturesque arete. Funky corner palming makes this route stand out among Devil's Lake crimp-fests. Beginner's Demise may be a good training route for the same kind of moves on Gill's Nose.

"Chicken Delight" (5.7) and "Chicken Tonight" (5.8) are variations of the same general line.  At the bottom, you have the choice of an awkward, reachy move left of the rib, or a layback/jam crack to the right (or you could walk around to the left and start on the thin, bouldery face, or start as for "Beginner's Delight").  See the photo on the Pseudo Hawk's Nest page. 

  The middle section does not have much gear, but is very easy climbing. 

  At the top, a blade of rock juts out.  Going right of the blade, "Chicken Delight," is a little awkward.  Protects well in the crux.

The start is the crux and is harder for shorter folks. Studiously avoid the holds on the left corner. One may find it necessary to use holds near the left corner, and which point a decision must be made: Can I use this hold and still look myself in the mirror?  

  After the initial wall is passed the climb transforms into an enjoyable tour of moderate, exposed quartzite.

Start on the detached block and move a little left following a crack through what appears to be a shattered face but is WAY solid. Finish on the ledge.

Climb the cracks and overhang on the opposite side of the gully from Couch of Pain and Sofa-isticated Lady. The wall has enough cracks and edges to allow for a good deal of variation in the exact path.

This route has three distinct sections, and a number of variations. 

  The lower section is a strenuous layback.  Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago").  From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack.  This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear.  For the final 6-8 feet, move left.  The top-out on the ledge is always dirty. 

  You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully. 

  Variations:  for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead.  At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.

Pseudo Hawk's Nest can be found just to the west of the Leaning Tower Gully.  The formation contains notable climbs like Bagatelle, Chicken Delight, and Full Moon Over Baraboo, along with other routes that are worth checking out.  This area may also see less crowding than those east of the Leaning Tower Gully.

Description

Protection

Routes in 15: Pseudo Hawk's Nest