Located around the corner to the left of of Yankee Clipper (11b). Begin at a stance at the top of a large flake at the bottom of the approach gully at the drop-off. The start is on the more serious side for an "R route" with tough moves before you get any gear. Then it's just some small pro here and there protecting thin techy climbing up a vertical face. Eventually you escape left to easier terrain and take huge knobs up to a flake. Jam the flake to the top of the cliff and a two bolt anchor (shared with Yankee Clipper). This route can be toproped after leading one of the other climbs to the right.

New Traditionalists

Vibrator

Figment

Motor Drive

Cereal Killer

Euellogy

Mighty Crunchy

Grape Nuts

Starts to the right of Cereal Killer. The route climbs a couple crack systems through ledges... be prepared for some bushwhacking! This is a fun lead to get to the top of the cliff to retrieve anchors or set a toprope.

Bolted face climbing, crux after the second bolt, leads directly to anchors.

Bolted face climbing, crux after the third bolt, trend right after fourth bolt to anchor (shared with Vibrator).

Start off on a killer (pun intended) sharp flake (4" pro can be had behind it) that angles up and then left. Once you reach the main wall follow the cracks left and then straight up. Beware that once you reach the knobs up top the crack will largely disappear, and you still have a few feet to go to the top and the anchors. Not quite run out, but not quite not either.

The belay for this climb is a little uncomfortable, but Euellogy is itself a good beginner Yosemite 5.10 crack climb.  All of the jams and locks are solid.  The crux is where the crack passes a bulge/rooflet at the midway point.

Approach by scrambling in from the right, as you would for Grape Nuts or Euellogy. This is the first obvious crack that you encounter.

Climb up some blocks to reach a flared shallow corner. This steep and committing section is the crux and requires thin finger jams in the corner along with some surprisingly good holds on the face and arete. Above this a lower angle splitter crack leads to a ledge. Rappel from a tree to the left.

This seemingly broken up climb actually features solid flakes along a very clean hand crack. Pulling up into the crack from the unsettling belay slab is the physical and psychological crux. Halfway up, a perfect hand crack through a roof is the technical crux. This second crux thankfully takes great gear and ends on a large ledge.

Description

Protection

Routes in Av. The Mojo Tooth Area