Definitely an old Umpqua classic, this route begins with 30 feet of relentlessly (5.10c to 5.10a) thin finger crack climbing passing with a 5.10c crux move over a slight bulge. Above the bulge the crack widens and backs of to 5.7 hand crack becoming progressively steeper finishing with 5.9 jamming with sections deep enough to get your arm into. Belay bolts have recently been added just above the bulge allowing you to break the climb into two pitches as climbing through in a single pitch is relentless.

Crazy Crack

Dogleg Crack

The upper half of this crack doglegs to the right.

large approximately 90 foot tall dacitic tuff boulder in the trees on the N slope overlooking Soda Spring Reservoir. A single thin 1/4 to 4" crack splits the rock. A great place to be to beat the heat.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Medicine Rock