Strange Days

Ice Station Zebra

Slim@Peoples Ice Company

Iceman Cometh

Hunting Wolverines

Dragonfly

Val Thoren Snake Child

Super X-Ray Spectacles

Fun Stripe

Ghost of Richard

Smoke Tunnel

This climb starts as the Second half of Strange Days, which is a rather boring 10a slabby climb, and don't expect to write home about it.   However, The vertical kicks in with the second half, and the climb begins to feel much more like a boulder problem.  From the crack next to Ice Station Zebra (must do) Super X-Ray Spectacles is the third climb to the left, and takes of right after reaching Strange Days anchor.   As I recall the crux is THIN, but appeared to have two options.  The shorter guys went right, while I went a bit left and yarded on a side pull to a thiner crimp.   If You're here, I'd jump on the second half for sure, but don't go out of your way to send.  (Strange Days is also the first half of Dragonfly 11d, but takes off left from the first anchor.)

dihedral to crack to 1st anchor then slabby techy arete to 2nd.  couple problems here and there to figure out but nothing too cruxy.  The pitches can be safely linked with a 60m, in which case there's a sixth bolt at the base of p2, to avoid having to clip the p1 anchor with a extended draw.

Starts immediately left of Iceman Cometh on the same boulder. Make fun moves left on pockets to reach a good stance below the bulge. Climb over the bulge and pull on small pockets until the chains. Thinner and more demanding than Iceman.

Start on top of the chockstone and clip the first bolt. Steep steming/lybacking will take you past the bottom section, then to some easier laybacking near the top.

Very steep and pumpy first four bolts then easier climbing to the top. Either layback in the crack and use polished (crux) feet, or jam the crack utilizing tight, sharp fists.

This route takes the right-angling line of bolts on pretty gold and black rock.  Utilize sidepulls and crimps up two nebulous crack systems and finish on a steep section with positive holds.

Edges, sidepulls, and pinches, all nice and smooth!  Start on the steep dirt slope and head for the edge in the small circle of white rock.  Pull and pinch unique, square, embedded stones to the top.

Beautiful slightly over-hanging black stone with an orange water streak.  The business is done after the 5th bolt then cruises up nice stone to the anchor.  The book calls this 11+, but I felt it was more on the 12a side.

A nice lengthy warmup with thoughtful face climbing past a crack/flake feature and ending on white slab. Stay RIGHT at the 10th bolt (the left line is Block Tank, 10b). Bring a long sleeve shirt for the belay!

A great slab route just to the left of Ice Station Zebra.  Super fun moves with plenty of chert to pull down on.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Ice Plant