Start: Below a low angle wall facing the river.   A variety of climbs go up this wall. 5.3-5.8

River Wall

Barn Roof

Purple Horse Traverse

Start: Below the roof on the upstream end of Purple Horse.   Climb the roof.

Purple Horse is small but aesthetic top-rope crag on the Maryland side of Great Falls, along the Billy Goat trail.  The longish approach on the Billy Goat Trail guarantees an aerobic component, and peace and quiet from other climbers.  Especially nice on a coldish Fall, Winter or Spring day as the sun shines there and the Purple Horse Beach all day long. 

  There are two main top rope locations: (1) the main face which drops into the river, best at low later, and (2) the barn door overhang, slightly upstream, and a careful scramble at the top to the anchors.  

  Bring some passive gear to set the anchors. 

  Routes on purple horse face are easier to the right facing the rock, and a bit more difficult to the left.  Variants between 5.4-5.9 can be found. 

  Barn Roof is just up stream.  The overhang is 5.9 up through the corner if you figure it out properly, and 5.9+ if you go for the buckets out to the right. 

  Switch the anchors slightly for 'Barn Door', which climbs the face and the layback holds on the right side of the overhang at about 5.10b.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Purple Horse Area