The second pitch of this route is an all time Pinnacles classic.  The knobs are huge, but so is the pucker factor with only two bolts in about 50 feet of very steep climbing.  This pitch was originally rated 5.6!

This climb shares the same first pitch as the Salathe route. Start from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb and spot a single bolt out left on the left(south) wall leading to a huge belay knob.  Traverse left to the bolt and then climb up and onto the knob with a two-bolt anchor.  On the second pitch climb up to the first bolt of the Salathe route, but instead of traversing left, head straight up to a second bolt then to the top. Find a two-bolt anchor, shared with the Salathe route on top.

To descend, scramble 100 feet up hill to find a 2-bolt anchor with chains on top of the route Lifeline. Rappel 95' to the base of the route.

Burnette Bolt Variation

Love Line

Wilts Bolt Variation

Salathe Route

This route has a well-deserved reputation for boldness not only for the first ascent led by the legendary John Salathe way back in 1946!, but for all those who follow in his footsteps(hint: tread lightly).

Start from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb and spot a single bolt out left on the left(south) wall leading to a huge belay knob.  Traverse left to the bolt and then up and left onto the knob with a two-bolt anchor.

The second pitch climbs more or less straight up to a bolt and then angles up and left to a second bolt.  More left and upward climbing leads to the top of the climb and a two-bolt anchor shared with the Wilts Bolt Variation.

To descend, scramble 100 feet uphill to find a 2-bolt anchor with chains on top of the route Lifeline. Rappel 95' to the base of the route.

On the first ascent, Salathe reportedly found several piton placements on the second pitch.  Good luck with that!  Also, before belay bolts were installed at the top of the first pitch, the belay anchors consisted of driving pitons into the small cracks on the underside of the belay knob.

A variation to the second pitch of the Salathe Route which climbs a steep face on big knobs.  The first pitch climbs the Salathe route, traversing left from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb to a bolt and then up to a big knob with two bolts for belay.

The second pitch traverses left to a bolt and then up and left on big knobs, some which can be slung for protection, to the top and a two-bolt anchor shared with the Salathe route.

Scramble about 100 feet up and right to the top of Lifeline to rappel 95' back to the start of the climb from two bolts with chains.

The year of his FA Chuck Wilts partnered with Don Wilson to write the 2nd ever guidebook to Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks.  Chuck would go on to pen four more editions of this guide, the last in 1979.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Hand