Squeeze job between Chair Bivy crack route to the left and 2 Dead Ducks to the right.  Climbs kind of like "Orgasm Direct" or "Cul De Sac Exit" over at East Bluff.  At the start work from right off of tilted block (start of 2DD's) across the face on really cool positive rails to the left to gain a series of really great large flat square cuts and a funky pistol grip flake for the right hand then up into very nicely positioned    side-pull\under-clings at a bulge where the feet are jacked as high as possible.  Grab the jugs above the bulge then prepare to mantel up (with zero feet) in order to let go with the right hand and find and pull down on an awesome crimp....the crux! Climb the short blank section to the yop off the big horizontal making sure to not venture left or right at all.  This climb is a eliminate for sure.

Blades of Crass

Chair Bivy

Two Dead Ducks

This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.  

  Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.  

  Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.

 (INFO on original boulder problem below)   This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.  

  Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.  

  Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.

This route follows the edges up the face just to the right of the Chair Bivy Crack. Starts out steep, then gently slabs out for the upper portion of the route.  

  Continuous 5.9 climbing up the entire feature. The route is more technical than it is pumpy. Really enjoyable little face that actually protects.

This short bluff is found directly below the base of the Wiesner Wall. Offering, as of now, a few boulder problems at the base along with two routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chair Bivy Buttress