Madame G.'s Walrus tackles the splitter hand crack on the left panel of the Imitation Wall.  For those looking to break into crack climbing, this route provides a fun and safe way to get used to jamming and placing gear.

Madame Grunnenbaums Walrus

Comet Relief

Upper Eczema Ridge

Bare Buttress

Pawn's Terrace

The Yellow Blur

Freighter Horn

Hairy Intertube

Central Pillar of Ennui

Rear's Beach

Probably the best trad route on the wall, Rear's Beach climbs the face right of Upper Eczema Ridge, aiming for parallel finger cracks. Expect more patina pulling and face climbing than actual crack climbing on this trad route.

The hardest route on the cliff, Comet Relief tackles the panel between two cracks. You may have to put on blinders to not be tempted to use the cracks, but any way you tackle this route provides you with thin and technical movement on great stone.

Upper Eczema Ridge is a fun and easy sport route that begins left of the wide recess and trends right on the patina that Devil's Head is known for. This shares an anchor with the 2 trad routes to the right and provides an easy way to toprope them if you have not brought any gear to the crag.

A series of discontinuous cracks arc slightly leftwards. Follow the cracks past horns and juggy patina.

Scamper up pleasing granite past 4 bolts.

The Yellow Blur has crimpy climbing up the yellow streak with a definite crux at the third bolt.

Follow a crack with interesting horns and fins protruding from it. The route tends to feel steeper than it is with occasional devious gear placements. At the top, step left to the anchors of

Comet Relief

or right to the anchors of

Central Pillar of Ennui

.

Hairy Intertube is a thought-provoking route with sculpted jugs and dishes.

Fun face climbing past 5 bolts culminates in a nice, steep finish.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Imitation Wall